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Hi Everyone,

 

I was going to put this in one of my restores, but figured it would benefit those that restore hand tools as well.

 

I had read on other websites about the electrolysis method of rust removal, but had not tried it myself until recently. I started using the method to get into areas of my machines that were not accessible with the wire wheel. It takes some time, but works rather well. Following is a link that describes the process.http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/RustRemovalByElectrolysis.ashx

 

The following photos show how it works.

 

First up is what to use to make your electrolyte. It takes one tablespoon per gallon of water to make the electrolyte solution. The box of Washing soda was $2.89

 

Next is my setup. A plastic tub, lawn tractor battery, 6 Amp battery charger, a piece of scrap steel plate for the sacrificial metal, and some wire.

 

 

 

The above photo was when I had the complete frame for the Delta 785 bandsaw in the solution. I have since added a second sacrificial plate to the setup, to help speed the process.

 

 

Following are a few photos of parts cleaned using the method. These parts are not totally done yet, as I need to do a little body work, and casting flash removal. They will be ran through the solution once more. The first photos were taken when the saw was still assembled.

 

 

As you can see it will also remove the paint.The bolt holding the two casting halves together would not budge before cleanup, it came loose easily after the treatment.

 

These are the wheel covers before,

And after,

 

As you can see the process does indeed work. It does take some time, but the parts that I'm stripping started with two coats of paint.

 

I do believe that I will be using this method for most of my machine parts cleanup process in the future. It is not recommended for other than steel or cast iron, so removal of aluminum tags etc. is recommended as the solution may destroy them.

 

It's not real fast, but does do a good job. I simply hook the parts up, and let the process do the work!

 

You do need to scrub and rinse the parts, and sacrificial plates occasionally to remove the gunk that builds up, but using the process, allows you to do something else at the same time that the parts are getting clean.

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Larry, I've heard that works really well with cast iron pans too.

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

I've seen rebar used as sacrificial iron. A plate would last longer, right? 

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Larry, thanks for posting this great info. I've heard of this method before via a couple of antique tractor lists that I'm on, but never tried it. I guess while your waiting for the parts to get done you could always take a nap.

 

What gauge wire did you use?

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Ron,

 

From what I've read you can clean most any iron or steel with this method. I've read articles that state it works with other metals also, and some that say not to use it on aluminum or other soft metals.

So for now I'm just using it on steel, and cast iron.

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Gene,

 

I've seen mention of using rebar myself. The only reason that I used plate steel is, it is what I had on hand.

 

I guess I'll find out how long it lasts.

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Greg,

 

I saw where a guy restoring a 1959 Corvette used the method for cleaning up brake wheel cylinders, and other parts. The parts were real rusty when he started, but looked almost new when he was done.

 

I'm using 14 gauge wire for this setup. With a fully charged battery and clean sacrificial plates, the circuit pulls about 3 Amps of current. I tried filming the process working, but it doesn't show well with my camera. You can actually see a current flowing away from the sacrificial plate steel.

 

I was skeptical at first myself, but after seeing how good of a job it does I'll be doing more parts this way. It makes one of those nasty jobs much easier, but does take some time to do it. That and it's rather inexpensive.

 

It should be done in a well ventilated space as the process does release hydrogen gas.

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Larry-

 

This a great posting. I've never thought about doing anything like this at home but it looks pretty easy. I will definitively give it a try on something. Does it mater how the polarity of the battery is connected to the item?

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Randy,

 

Yes it does, the negative lead goes to the part you want to clean. Otherwise your part will become the sacrificial metal.

 

I was pleased with the results, as the method will clean areas that are hard to get at. I'll be using it to clean most of my parts from now on. It is much easier than doing it by hand. It's cheap too! 

 

I need to find a bigger tub for doing my larger parts, such as the table for the table saw. 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

That's just a very cool method, and I can think of many times when I wish that I had had a easier method for sanding or wire brushing things to clean them up. What dose it do to paint if left on, will it remove it as well?

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Randy,

 

You will have to use a scrub brush once in a while to remove the gunk, but it will remove the paint also! 

I pull both the part that I'm cleaning and the sacrificial metal, scrub and rinse with the garden hose. Then hook everything back up and let it work some more. It's a real labor saver, I'll admit that it's a lazy mans way of doing it!

 

It may take the better part of a day or so depending on how much paint rust etc. needs to be removed, along with the size of the parts being cleaned.

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Larry'

 

I would like to think that is wisdom not laziness, the older we get the more wise we become and lees work we need to do.

 

This method is right up my alley.

 

Randy

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

There are a few things that will work well as a sacrificial anode. But DO NOT use stainless steel. The chemical reaction will give off toxic fumes and the resulting water mixture is toxic. I do not recall the exact resulting chemical but I do remember its not good. Electrolysis will also eat away non ferrous metals. So, aluminum, brass, pot metal etc. will be dissolved.

 

I have used electrolysis many times with great success. Just make sure the container is non conductive and the battery charger is not one with a 'smart" system. The newer chargers must be able to sense a small current in order to work. Find an old charger at a garage sale or thrift store.

 

 

I used a large garbage can to do the legs of a Delta lathe I restored. I also used the same can for a unisaw top that was severely rusted.

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Ken,

 

Thanks for mentioning the fact about not using stainless steel. I forgot to mention it myself. The resulting chemical from the reaction of using stainless is Hexavalent Chromium, and is known to cause several types of cancer including lung cancer from the gas that is released during the chemical reaction.  There are some people that don't believe that it does, and use it anyway but why take the chance?

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Thanks Larry. If you want to know more about Hexavalent Chromium just watch the movie Erin Brokovich.

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Ken-

 

Great looking saw! That is great example of the process and the results speak for themselves, looks like a big pot of stew!

 

I am constantly impressed by the ideas you guys come up with.

 

Randy

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Hi Everyone,

 

I figured that I would show how good the method works at removing almost everything from a casting. So I put one of the main body castings for my Delta 1160 table saw into the electrolysis tank. Here are a couple of before photos.

Hmm, it looks like the soups ready Yummy!

This photo shows the scum buildup after four hours on the sacrificial metal plates.

The end result after about eight hours of cooking.

 

There is very slight traces of paint still present but I felt that it was clean enough. The slight amount of rust still present rubs right off with a Scotch-Brite pad. Sure beats trying to clean up such an irregular shaped casting with a wire wheel!

 

It also doesn't damage the machined surfaces like sandblasting does.

 

Now I'll clean up some of the casting flash, and it will be ready to paint.

 

I'll be using the Electrolysis Method for most all of my future projects!

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Don't forget that it works "line of sight". Meaning that the area that faces the anode will be cleaner than the protected side. It will also clean the opposite side but not as well. One way to combat that is to add more anodes. I usually use rebar or old metal channel and connect them with some copper wire.

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Ken,

 

I found that out, and added a second piece of scrap plate steel. I do turn the part being cleaned around and over when I check on the progress. I also scrub and rinse both the part being cleaned and the sacrificial anodes, it seems to help keep the process working more effectively. I should probably add a couple of more anodes so that there is four sided coverage.

 

You had mentioned another method that you were using in a private message. Do you know if it would be safe for the cast pot-metal parts? I want to clean up the trunnions etc. and they are cast Zamak. So I know that it is not safe to do these parts using the electrolysis method.

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Wow Larry, That looks beautiful, I wish I had seen your article on this method before I had done my Delta!

 

I've just got to try this out soon just to see it work. That is such a great process.

 

How many hours did you leave it in for?

 

Randy

 

 

Edited November 10, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk