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Lighting is a subject that takes a backseat for most people as it becomes " this is what I have to work with". Even in this case it can be managed. Preferred is to have one light source with reflectors to fill in the shadows. The color temperature of the light source must be balanced and for this you can use the WB on your camera or use a grayscale card to set it based on the light you use. What this does is eliminate or strongly dilute the colors that the camera sees but your eye does not. Fluorescent light can be balanced with special color corrected bulbs, Tungston gives a warmer color. Led can also be used and would allow less heat buildup while you are in session. This photo was done with white balance (WB) set for flourescent and lighting was incandescent photo bulb. Note the reds on the background which is colored from white (bottom) to dark gray (top. This is the same light setup with WB changed to tungsten . light is not covered and is bounced off ceiling at the 4 o'clock position. Note the heavy shadows. This shot has a T shirt cover over light to reduce harsh shadows. Lights can be "bounced" to give softer lighting. To bounce the light is not directly on the subject, but is aimed at the ceiling or wall giving reflected light to the subject. Remember that the color of this light is affected by the object it is reflected off of. The objective of lighting is not to totally eliminate shadows, but to highlight areas and leave some shadow line which will create depth in the picture. The source can be to either side from the 4 or 8 o'clock position. Tents can be used to soften and spread the lighting and you can make your own As is done here . Reflectors can fill in light on the opposite side to fill in dark areas and for this use white fabric or Mylar reflector. These are simple to build also. A good point about lighting is do not lock yourself into one method. Be willing to experiment. Do not use internal flash, but do try changing settings which we will cover in other posts. While you are set up make more than one picture and try turning the piece to get shots from different angles as this will change the effect of lighting. All that leads to this is the set up I have. I use a plastic gradient background. The lights are either halogen worklights or a photo bulb I have had for years and dug out recently. The lights are aimed at the ceiling either over the subject or 110 degrees away from the subject. Photo space is limited for my set up so camera is 3-4 feet from subject on tripod . I just bought a remote switch I will use or you could use the time delay feature. I have 2 shop windows and I cover one to reduce the glare spot caused by external light, also turn off all other shop lighting. This is my setup for the photo itself . With gradient backgrounds you will here have the dark end at the top. Here you will see the setup for the light. The swing arm allows me to change position of the light easily. This is a Simple Photo Shoot article by John Lucas. John is a retired professional photographer and wood turner. We have invited him to participate with us as he has many helpful tips Here are more links: Photographing Your Woodworking Projects like a Pro (on the cheap) from Popular Woodworking Product Photo Shoot Made Easy- Wood Bowls By Kent at TurnAWoodBowl.com
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Found this article in a Woodcraft email on photographing your work. It is a bit more extensive than my blog Lets talk Photography Woodcraft Magazine Photographing Your Projects This is a downloadable PDF.
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I was asked to provide a woodworking project for a fundraiser. So I decided to mix my photography job and woodworking hobby to create a mixed media project for display. I took a shot of the Alley Springs Mill (Jacks Fork Missouri) late one winter, accentuated the mill over the black and white background and had an 8x12 printed on metal (aluminum). I then took a piece of scrap live edge walnut and created a background to "frame" the image. The print is raised of the background by 1.5" using blocking to give it a 3 dimensional look. This is the live edge piece after cutting for length, jointing the long edges, hand planing the face and back and a base sand with 40 and 80 grit. A quick test to see how the print looked over the natural wood. I decided on staining. I wiped on Minwax walnut stain, then sprayed three coats of semi-gloss polyurethane over the entire piece. Epoxied the print to the board and placed on a stand for display. I'm extremely pleased with how this turned out. It allowed me to work with the metal media, and use a piece of live edge to accentuate the print. Will
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I wondered how some ply would turn and It wasn't so good. One thing led to another and with some creativity, a permanent fine marker, stain and some trim, it came out OK. I am working on a way to get decent pictures of small work. I came up with this set up. It is black foam board with a white insert (dollar store) Cut some slots and insert a dowell. I don't have the light set up like I want it yet. I can pick any color insert or use the black. The sides support it Easy to move, fold to store
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