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Found 7 results

  1. With my deck refurb in the finishing painting stage I can now work on next outside project. For whatever reason the rest of the house has vinyl siding and soffits, but he carport seems to have been left out. For many years I have just painted it, but now I just want the vinyl soffit and be done with it. Of course while I am at it a few upgrades are in order. First up is a improvement to the lighting. When it rains or I need to work after dark the carport offers the best place and plenty of work area. But only two 4 ft fluorescent fixtures provide very poor light. So I am thinking to add eight 4ft long LED fixtures. That should cover the 22x16 ft area with plenty of light. In theory. So today I have removed the old fixtures. Conducted chemical warfare against the wasps and hornets that had taken up residence inside the guts of the fixtures. These lights have been up for 33 years according to the date stamped on one of them. You can see in the picture at one time the ceiling was a golden / yellow color. Not worried about painting this, I intend to cover the works with vinyl soffit. I have enough in stock to do about 2/3 of it so this should be a $100 project. Now I need 4 outlet boxes, 2 outlets each to give power to the lights. For this project like my shop I want to be able to unplug them if I need to repair or replace. Used this jig to cut the 450 angles for the box shells we shall call them. Cutting up all the pieces I assembled and used glue and air nails to make 4 little boxes. Drilled pocket holes in them to attached to ceiling from inside the box, leaving enough room to put the metal electrical box in place. All sanded, edges rounded on the router table and ready for paint. Which the 1st coat is now drying. Could not get an answer from anyone if the outlets without a cover can be used UNDER a carport or not. If the time comes to sell the house and someone insists they MUST have covers the boxes are wide enough to allow the use of the covered outlets like I used here.
  2. Lighting is a subject that takes a backseat for most people as it becomes " this is what I have to work with". Even in this case it can be managed. Preferred is to have one light source with reflectors to fill in the shadows. The color temperature of the light source must be balanced and for this you can use the WB on your camera or use a grayscale card to set it based on the light you use. What this does is eliminate or strongly dilute the colors that the camera sees but your eye does not. Fluorescent light can be balanced with special color corrected bulbs, Tungston gives a warmer color. Led can also be used and would allow less heat buildup while you are in session. This photo was done with white balance (WB) set for flourescent and lighting was incandescent photo bulb. Note the reds on the background which is colored from white (bottom) to dark gray (top. This is the same light setup with WB changed to tungsten . light is not covered and is bounced off ceiling at the 4 oclock position. Note the heavy shadows. This shot has a tshirt cover over light to reduce harsh shadows. Lights can be "bounced" to give softer lighting. To bounce the light is not directly on the subject, but is aimed at the ceiling or wall giving reflected light to the subject. Remember that the color of this light is affected by the object it is reflected off of. The objective of lighting is not to totally eliminate shadows, but to highlight areas and leave some shadow line which will create depth in the picture. The source can be to either side from the 4 or 8 o'clock position. Tents can be used to soften and spread the lighting and you can make your own As Has Been Done Here . Reflectors can fill in light on the opposite side to fill in dark areas and for this use white fabric or Mylar reflector. These are simple to build also. A good point about lighting is do not lock yourself into one method. Be willing to experiment. Do not use internal flash, but do try changing settings which we will cover in other posts. While you are set up make more than one picture and try turning the piece to get shots from different angles as this will change the effect of lighting. All that leads to this is the set up I have. I use a plastic gradient background. The lights are either halogen worklights or a photo bulb I have had for years and dug out recently. The lights are aimed at the ceiling either over the subject or 110 degrees away from the subject. Photo space is limited for my set up so camera is 3-4 feet from subject on tripod . I just bought a remote switch I will use or you could use the time delay feature. I have 2 shop windows and I cover one to reduce the glare spot caused by external light, also turn off all other shop lighting. This is my setup for the photo itself . With gradient backgrounds you will hereHhave the dark end at the top. Here you will see the setup for the light. The swing arm allows me to change position of the light easily. This is a Brief Tutorial by John Lucas. John is a retired professional photographer and wood turner. We have invited him to participate with us as he has many helpful tips This is another tutorial on Photographing Your Work by Neal Addy.
  3. When applying a finish, it's critical to have good light to see if you have applied not too thick, not to thin, just right. Back light at a low angle is critical to see the flaws and defects. Here's my light box that I use where I finish.
  4. Hey folks, got a question. I just installed a light fixture in our bathroom over a vanity. Wife brought it home today, and the booklet that came with it states 100W bulbs, we have only 60W bulbs on hand. Will the 60W bulbs burn out quicker? Or does it matter? I know 100W will be brighter, but for now we gots the 60's, I'd like to use em up. Is there any danger by doing this? Here is a link to the light we have at https://www.lowes.com/pd/Quoizel-Fairgate-2-Light-5-in-Bronze-Vanity-Light/1000003136 Thanks
  5. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    This image was taken from the family room looking into the kitchen. The long slender cabinets were built to sandwich the copper stove hood. The stools were bought by the customer, they were not made by me.
  6. I just posted the second installment of Lets Talk Photography Blog. This time about lighting with examples and links to other tutorials. You can find it HERE. What is wrong and what is right in this photo?
  7. Bath Fitters has come and gone but the remodel continues. We ordered a custom vanity top but it won't be here for another couple of weeks. There's a lot of work to be done before it gets here. Mimi picked out the lights she wanted- after I had finished the painting. She picked 2 lights, unfortunately there is only one mounting box/access. I really didn't want to have to cut into the freshly painted wall and mount a retro box, so we settled on an escutcheon plate style mounting piece. Here's what I came up with- In order to keep from having to make a second hole in the wall, I opted to run the wires within the wooden plate. Some templates and a router created the "raceways" for the wiring. Wire nuts for the connections and silicon caulk to keep things connected and in place- tape is just there until the caulk cured. Ready for the wall- The vanity cabinet and a small wall cabinet are coming together, also- The doors are raised panel, stick and cope construction- got the ones for the wall cabinet glued together today. As well as the hinges located, drilled and test fitted. This is my first time using "Blum" hinges- at 93¢ each, the price was right. Other than the rather large "clearance distance" between the back of the door and the face frame, I like them. I think I'm going to make the drawer boxes with thru dove tails and add the fronts. So much to do, so little time!
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