As mentioned before, the tips and tricks we mention here are personal choices and not gospel. We all have our particular ways of doing things that work for us. There are NO absolutes in scrolling.

Sorry to have taken so long in getting the next Tips and Tricks our, folks. Life got in the way.

Anyway, there has been some interest in how to make self-framing projects. This type of project is the art of using one piece of wood for both the picture AND the frame. For the demo, I have chosen a Sheila Landry design for the project.

 

Without going into all the basics of choosing the wood, sanding, prep work, affixing the pattern, assume we have already done it. (Because this is a purchased pattern, I will not include all of the pattern here.) What I want you to notice is the "X" marked on the pattern and marked "Drill Entry Hole Here" Why there, you ask???? That is the point that we will start making our frame. The figure in the middle is going to be recessed by 1/4 to 3/8" around this line. Outside of this line will be the frame.

 

 

When we make self-framing projects, we don't want any light to shine through our framing cut AND we want to make sure that we have a good glue area. To accomplish this task, we will need to use a "bevel" technique. That simply means that we change the angle of the blade to the wood. With most of the saws, you will tilt the table to change the angle of the cut. With the Excalibur saw, you will change the angle of the cutting head.

 

Depending on the size of the blade you use, you will change the angle from 2 to 5 degrees. I know that we are talking about very small changes - - - - soooooooooooooooooooooo - - - - - the image below is that of a protractor. Feel free to copy this image or download your own by searching "protractor image" in your favorite search engine.

 

When printing this image you change its size to suit. After printing, I glued mine onto scrap, and cut the outside. Be certain that the bottom of the image is flush with the bottom of your scrap.

 

The next step that I personally recommend is to use a piece of scrap and cut some test areas as shown below. I label each area with the amount of angle on the blade. Also notice that I labeled the size of the blade. (OK, I mislabeled the #3 blade as #4). This seems to help me choose the amount of angle and size of blade by actually showing me how far the cut piece will move.

 

 

The next step will be to drill the entry hole. Choose the smallest drill bit that you can for this entry hole as it will probably be seen (more on this later). Now - there are some differences of opinion in this step. some say that you can drill the hole at 90 degrees - in other words straight down - other say that you must drill the hold on your chosen angle. Try it both ways and see which way works best for you.

 

Ready for the next step? Notice that nothing has been said yet about any cutting on the pattern itself. We will do that in a little while.

 

OK - tilt your saw to the chosen angle of cut. At this point, it doesn't really make any difference which direction (if you saw will tilt both ways). Thread the blade through the hole and tighten the tension. I have a habit of a little over-tightening at this point because I don't want the blade to wander.

 

NOW to decide which direction to cut. You are going to want the outside (frame) to fall out the bottom of the piece. This will eventually make the center piece depressed into the frame and the frame proud. When you are satisfied you are cutting in the right direction, do so. Slow and steady will make a great even cut.

 

When you are finished, test fit the center by inserting it into the frame from the top. It should be something like the picture below.

 

 

If all looks good, go ahead and glue the pieces together. Allow at least 8 hours to dry. After you are sure the pieces are cured, it's time for the next step. Using a carrier board, it is time to plane the back side. This step is not mandatory but I like to use it - makes for a more finished piece on the back side. (Shown in the picture below)

 

 

Another thing that I will do at this time, because I have some nice firm wood to work with, is to route a 1/4" round-over around the inside of the frame. You can almost see that in the picture below

 

 

OK - now it's time to cut out everything starting with the inside and working out to the frame. Below is what I ended up with. Notice that I also put a 1/4" round-over around the entire frame.

 

Whatcha think, folks - ready to try "Self-Framing" projects..? ? ? ? ? ?

Let's have some discussion here.

Give it a try and post your results.

And thanks for your participation.

That's really cool, Fred, Thanks!!!

I enjoy self framing projects, I have a few of them I do. But, I do like the tips on planing the back of the center piece and the small round over areas. Great tips!

Wouldn't it make more sense to cut out the "frame" before gluing it to the center "picture" portion? That way it would sit flat and have full contact with the saw table for support. Just asking.

Dave, I take it that you would do the bevel cut, run through the planer, then glue it up????? Or did I read your question improperly?

My take on it - not gospel of course - when cutting the bevel, I am never exactly sure how far the center will extrude out the back of the frame. Hence, that is the reason I glue then plane - I will be absolutely sure that I will have a smooth back (a lot of times you can not even see the cut on the back side).

Sorry I wasn't clear. What I meant was that after the bevel cut was made, I would do the cutouts on the "frame" portion before gluing it to the picture portion. Actually I would be inclined to do all the cutout work on both pieces before final assembly as it would be less awkward. One thing I forgot to mention was -Great job!

Dave - thanks

 

 

Got it now. It would be interesting for you to cut out the whole then, glue it up, then plane it. In my experience, when I have done that, the pieces start flying out of the planer. Tears up my hard work. And that, my friend, is why I started gluing them up before I start doing the fret work. Whatcha think, gang????

 

Fred

Will elaborate on this soon. But my final sanding is done with blocks and paper. I use a 2/0 blade and always cut to left ( counter clockwise ) and d a 1/8 inch round over with a Palm router. I want enough to just breat the edges but noe interfere with the cut. Like you stated, no right or wrong way. I also have "jigs" setup for blade angle. They are marked accordingly and used to set the table angel of the bevel. We know the end results are what matters. We seem to just use different methods to get there. But what works for me is no different hen yours. It is the end results tht count. I woiuld add that test cuts are critical when doing this, it is a lot of work to lose when things go array.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

Fred: I didn't mention the planer cuz I don't have one. No room. Eight by twelve shop with a bench, five storage cabinets, a scroll saw (Excalibur 21") and a router table. And I have to fit my butt in there, too. LOL

Wayne - certainly agree with all you said. Good point about the test cuts. Something I do quite often just to make sure my setting work for the combination of species, blade, angle of attack, etc...... Measure 14 times and you have a good chance of getting what you want on the first cut.

Just thought of something, folks (oh, no, not that)

If you are planning on staining any of the pieces, it is very easily done while all are apart. Just make sure you wait a day or so to do your glue up in order for the stain to completely cure.

 

Something I have not done yet is the "char" technique on a self-framing project. Have any of you ??????? If so, shoot us a picture of the project.

 

When experimenting on a new technique, try it out on scap wood first.

 

'Nuff for now, the vampire is lurking

 

That's a flawless work! You've cut pattern very nicely. Thanks for the details. Here's a video of Sheila from youtube.

 

Dave

 

I do all my fret work up front. Including the beveled cut. I then sand to finsih by hand fitting the pieces to get the desried product. For those that plan on staining thier work ( which I do quite often ) take care when gluing p the pieces. Do NOT apply the final finish until the final product is completed. Then apply the finish of your choice. Once finsihed attatch the hanger of choice and display. We all have different ways of doing our work. I use what works for me. The more people that respond and add, the better we ALL learn and GROW.

 

Thanks Fred, I had ordered that one,Hope mine turns out nice as ur;s. Thanks for all ur Help,
joe

ur welcome - let us see your finished project, Joe

Awesome tip by @Fred Wilson!!!

Up from the archives.

Another great tip is to use Youtube.  Search "srollsaw tips" and you will be presented with a plethera of videos.