April 28, 201412 yr comment_2998 I knew I wasn't loco! So folks do take a log and turn it into a vase! Report
April 28, 201412 yr comment_3009 Alex is the young man whose lathe duplicator got me started on making mine. Report
April 28, 201412 yr Author comment_3008 That's awesome Lew, a talented young man for sure. His video is inspirational to this new turner. Report
May 13, 201412 yr comment_3007 I don't have a log big enough for a vase but we'll see what I can do with what I do have LOL. I have a piece of limb from a tree that was cut down in the yard a few weeks back, and this is just the idea I needed to try something with it. Report
May 14, 201412 yr comment_3006 I wish I could get my lathe tools cutting like his do, they go through like butter. I've watched some of his videos before and he is one talented kid. Report
May 16, 201412 yr comment_3005 Great idea. I do have some logs laying around (since I'm unable (not allowed to) pick them up yet)...... I wonder - how long do I have to let these dry? Can this be done with "wet" wood? (probably not)......... Report
May 16, 201412 yr comment_3004 Actually, Fred, turning them "wet" is easier. After they are turned, they may change shape slightly- depending on the wall thickness. Cracking is also a possibility but again, the thinner the walls the less likely this will happen. Report
May 17, 201412 yr comment_3003 Thanks, Lewis - just might have to give it a go. Interesting that possibility of cracking is inversely proportional to wall thickness. Report
May 17, 201412 yr comment_3002 Thinner walls have less wood to create stresses and hold less moisture. Not a guarantee, but it helps. Report
June 2, 201412 yr comment_3001 Well technically he wasn't using a log. It appears to be a piece of split wood,like firewood. In other words the pith isn't in it, I don't think. I thought it was at first but I think that's a centering mark that I thought was the pith. You can see how the wood was split which is why I say it looks like it came from a firewood pile. No reason not to turn something like this. His skills are pretty good. I did notice he switched to a smaller roughing gouge with a sharper grind for the final cuts. You are right thinner would have been better if the wood was really green. However if the wood was seasoned by laying out for a good while and didn't have any checks then it would probably dry OK at that thickness Report
June 3, 201412 yr Author comment_3000 Great eye John! How thin should we go? Let's stay that vase he turned was green, what is a safe thinness to go to? Just curious because I turned a green bowl last week and I think I went too thin. My biggest problem was getting the wall of the bowl an even thickness through out, instead I am very thin at the rim and it gets thicker towards the bottom. The top cracked up pretty good. Report
June 3, 201412 yr comment_2999 Well a lot depends on the wood but usually 1/2" is safe and a little thinner better. My guess is your vase cracked because the bottom was thicker and wasn't losing moisture at the same rate as the thin lip. When wood dries it shrinks. When it's wet it doesn't. So the lip was trying to shrink and the bottom was still large so something had to give. When I'm turning something like that the lip will actually start to dry as you hollow. I will spray the lip with water often until the whole piece is done. This keeps the upper portion from checking. However it's really important to check the wood for cracks before you ever start. I will cut off 3/4" or so and try to break it. If it breaks easily it's cracked. Cut off another 1/2" or 3/4 and check again. A lot of cracked pieces that beginners build were actually cracked before they started. Report
August 26, 20178 yr comment_122255 7 hours ago, John Morris said: Great advise in this topic! I have to agree and it's great to see Mr. Lucas contributing here. If he thinks hard he may remember me asking what bowl gouge to buy on the old WOOD forums a few years back. I would like to add there are a few different approaches to turning a green bowl. One is called "twice turning" where a bowl is roughed, left to dry and then finished turned. The accepted rule of thumb in this case is to leave the thickness about 10% of the diameter. Some woods require a little more, some a little less. Another method is turning to finish green, I have gotten to where I really like bowls turned this way. Depending on size, anywhere from 1/2" or so to less than 1/4" will work. The bowls will tend to warp as they dry and give a nice effect. For a vase I like about 1/4" thick. Cracks aren't necessarily bad, I know a local artist who will actually create(saw) cracks in some of his pieces because they sell so well. Steve Report
August 26, 20178 yr Author comment_122271 @Steve Krumanaker, unfortunately this topic is two years old as well as John's last reply, but I brought it up to the top hoping it may spur some new interest in Mr. Lucas's participation here. He is missed indeed! Report
August 26, 20178 yr comment_122300 2 hours ago, John Morris said: @Steve Krumanaker, unfortunately this topic is two years old as well as John's last reply, but I brought it up to the top hoping it may spur some new interest in Mr. Lucas's participation here. He is missed indeed! Doh.. LOL. Thanks for pointing that out, I probably would never have figured it out on my own. Steve Report
August 26, 20178 yr comment_122313 1 hour ago, Steve Krumanaker said: Doh.. LOL. Thanks for pointing that out, I probably would never have figured it out on my own. Steve Glad to see I'm not the only one who has fell for this when old posts are brought into the new platform... Appreciate having the company Steve. BTW, your comments may spawn some new discussion around this topic so all is not in vain... Report
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