10 hours ago, BB1 said:

So, was looking at where would be best to setup my new drill press. Noted in the manual (page 20) that 30 inches is the "minimum" space between the back of the tool and the wall. Any thoughts on why so much space is recommended?

Diagram from that manual:

I wouldn't worry about sticking to that. Kinda crazy, and I doubt I've ever seen one that far from the wall. I suspect that whoever came up with that number simply pulled it out of a nether region, notice that the drawing isn't even to scale - that "B" dimension is in all but the last case smaller than the 30" from the wall and yet it appears to be about twice as large as the machine to wall clearance in the drawing.

Go about 8" from the wall and you'll be fine. Or maybe 12" if you want some room for replacement of the motor one day.

My drill press is on wheels, as are most of my machines. Even with a fairly large shop space, I prefer having everything easily moveable.

@JWD thanks for that added info. Good catch on the scale! May call Grizzly to see if there is any explanation they can offer.

I had considered putting it on wheels but decided, for now, to pick a spot that has good clearance to either side. May end up making a base at some point as the price on mobile bases of any quality has really jumped. I agree that mobility is ideal.

Just guessing here, but, my benchtop Taiwanese benchtop drill press (Bridgewood- identical then to Grizzly) only needs about 3" clearance. This is to allow the belt tensioning mechanism to function when changing speeds. Unless of course, yours is an electronic speed control☺️

Well, Grizzly provided insight. The table can rotate put of the way if there is a need for clearance on a long piece. The 30" would give space to rotate the table around to the back. I don't see that being a typical need, so currently have it about 18 inches from the wall.

10 minutes ago, BB1 said:

Well, Grizzly provided insight. The table can rotate put of the way if there is a need for clearance on a long piece. The 30" would give space to rotate the table around to the back. I don't see that being a typical need, so currently have it about 18 inches from the wall.

An interesting point, thanks! One I would have never thought of.

What @Fred W. Hargis Jr said!

Another question on the drill press. 🤔

The assembly manual notes to mark the rack to keep track of which end is "up." The confusing part is that the two ends of the rack are different in terms of how far the "teeth" are from the ends.

For purposes of this post, I'll call the end with teeth starting about 4 inches from the end as the "long end" and the one with teeth starting 1.5-2 inches from the end as the "short end."

The manual includes a couple pictures with the short end up but also has pictures with the long end up (out of the box, the long end was up as noted by my "x" on that end). I called Grizzly and was told it doesn't matter other than to consider where I would want the most travel for the table, top vs bottom of the column. After debating a bit, my husband and I proceeded with installing it in the orientation it was out of the box. Now I am thinking I'll be using the table close to the top likely 90% of the time or more, so don't want to limit that upward position of the table.

I did ask Grizzly tech support why the two ends differed and he wasn't sure, guessed maybe a cost savings of some sort (not sure how a few more teeth would be costly). 

Any thoughts? Currently I have the rack installed with the long end up, but am thinking the opposite orientation might be better. The teeth do not appear to tilt such that orientation would matter

I think your instinct is correct about the use being closer to the top. I'm not sure it will make a difference. If the DP is assembled, crank it all the way up and see where it stops relative to the chuck. That may be enough to give you a guess about what you want to do. If you leave it like it is and need the workpiece to be a little higher, you could always put some blocking under it. I do that a lot just to keep from cranking the table up/down (which isn't one of my favorite tasks).

26 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

If the DP is assembled, crank it all the way up and see where it stops relative to the chuck.

I don't have the chuck in place yet (funny...spell check tried to make that "chicken in place" 🤣) but estimating distance, seems low. Will stew on this a bit as I still need to get the chuck and arbor assembled and run the "spindle break in" that is supposed to spread the bearing grease (assume I don't need to add grease?...or do I?). Reading assembly instructions always has me confused (and frustrated with myself).

@Fred W. Hargis Jr point about cranking the table up and down is something to thing about. Also consider what type/size of materials will you be drilling.

If most of the stuff you will have to drill is thicker that say 12" or more, I would leave the geared bar as you have it now. If thestuff you drill is mostly flat 2x and 1x stuff, I'd reverse the geared bar- "short end" up.

18 minutes ago, lew said:

Also consider what type/size of materials will you be drilling

That's what I've been thinking about. Really the short side up would likely be better as I see my range being more toward thinner than extremely thick. And if I needed a hole on the end of a long piece, I should be able to swing the table over and secure the workpiece on the lower plate (also has t-track style grooves). Being a floor DP, the height options seem limitless compared to the little DP I've had for years and years. 🙂

Appreciate the comments and suggestions. Always helpful to have more insights when brainstorming.

As to the assembly I would think short to the top so table can be raised to minimum depth. As far as having extra travel to bottom a very rare use of DP.

The grease you speak of I am thinking on the motor spindle thru bearing to pullies? If you are talking about the morse taper to chuck then absolutely no grease.

6 hours ago, Gerald said:

As to the assembly I would think short to the top so table can be raised to minimum depth. As far as having extra travel to bottom a very rare use of DP.

The grease you speak of I am thinking on the motor spindle thru bearing to pullies? If you are talking about the morse taper to chuck then absolutely no grease.

I think we will disassemble and flip that today as I agree on wanting the ability to have the travel on the top.

The grease item is noted on page of 24 of the assembly manual, within this info on the spindle break-in (I added the blue font): "The spindle break-in procedure distributes lubrication throughout the bearings to reduce the risk of early bearing failure if there are any "dry" spots or areas where lubrication has settled in the bearings. You must complete this procedure before placing operational loads on the spindle for the first time when the machine is new or if it has been

sitting idle for longer than 6 months.

Always start the spindle break-in at the lowest speed to minimize wear if there are dry spots. Allow the spindle to run long enough to warm up and distribute the bearing grease, then incrementally increase spindle speeds and repeat this process at each speed until reaching the maximum spindle speed. Following the break-in procedure in this progressive manner helps minimize any potential wear that could occur before lubrication is fully distributed."

Dumb question, but is the bearing grease something I need to add or is it something already there? I'm now thinking the latter as it doesn't say to add, but to make sure it is distributed.

That all should be done before the chuck and arbor are installed (assuming this spindle break-in is the "test run"). This is in the manual.

The grease is already there, no concern about that. What they call the break in procedure kind of makes sense, but honestly i haven't ever heard (or read) that. That said, it's simple enough to do so it's a not a bug deal to go ahead and do it. Gerald mentioned the morse taper, that has to be squeaky clean, both male and female parts so look them over before you put it in place. Otherwise your chuck may just fall out of the quill.

Edited June 10Jun 10 by Fred W. Hargis Jr

13 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

The grease is already there, no concern about that. What they call the break in procedure kind of makes sense, but honestly i haven't ever heard (or read) that. That said, it's simple enough to do so it's a not a bug deal to go ahead and do it. Gerald mentioned the morse taper, that has to be squeaky clean, both male and female parts so look them over before you put it in place. Otherwise your chuck may just fall out of the quill.

Agree on both points. I hadn't seen that kind of break in procedure before, but it is a prudent step to do on a new machine. I've only ever bought a couple of them new, most of mine are older than I am! I've had chucks fall out before, most memorably on a Woodtek mortiser (import machine, bought new). It was already installed when I bought it.

I am totally there with the previous 2 comments. Grease is already there and since this machine is made overseas you do not know how long it has sat with the grease not getting manipulated. Keeping the MT Clean is very important and yes I have had mine fall out a couple times , usually when applying side pressure to drill.

Once the correct size belt arrives (post on other thread covered that too small of belt was placed on the DP from the factory) I'll be able to finish the setup.

Appreciate all the comments and suggestions. Also, want to say the Grizzly customer support was good. Talked to several different people with the various calls and they all were pleasant and helpful.