I just posted pictures (in another thread) of the pantry I built and I'm tired of painting by hand. I'm looking for a sprayer that I can use for cabinets, furniture, doors, and other woodworking related projects. I already have a small commercial airless sprayer that I use for painting walls and ceilings, but that won't work for more delicate finishing, as far as I know. I've seen other types of sprayers, but I would like some recommendations of what I should use for woodworking. I want something that can handle medium to heavy use (more than homeowner small projects type-stuff). Price isn't a huge concern unless it's thousands of dollars. I would rather save up for a good sprayer and never have to buy another one, rather than replacing cheap models periodically. If it makes a difference, I should probably mention that I have a decent 60 gal. air compressor in my shop (if that's even needed?). Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of sprayer I should get? Brands and specific models would be most welcome too. Thanks in advance!

I have several spray guns and always seem to come back to the Critter. Yes it is cheap and does not have a rel good pattern. But I have done Poly as well as WB paint. It is simple (no needle to clean) and will give you full coating.

 

Look at Critter here

I'm with @Gerald, use a critter, have 3 and plenty of mason jars so always ready for quick set up and go.

I've read where many are happy with the critter, so I bought one for finishing some cabinets.  But I couldn't get it to work.  No defined spray pattern, just a few drips of paint.

 

I don't mean this as a bad review, just wondering what I did wrong.  I even read the directions!

I think it depends on the size of things you are going to spray and what finish you are going to use.   It appears that your projects tend toward the larger size.  I spray shellac and the occasional lacquer with a simple sprayer like Harbor Freight's that run off a compressor.  If I'm doing something really large, I might have to stop and wait occasionally for the compressor I have (a 3-4 gal one) to catch up.  Not a problem.  For spraying water-borne finishes, I have a Graco HVLP system that works very well.  There are several other brands of HVLP that look good.

 

Before I knew better, I first tried spraying oil-based poly.  Never again.  The prior three finishes dry fast, so the overspray dries in the air and drops down as dust.  Oil-based poly dries relatively slowly, so the overspray falls down as liquid and dries on wherever it lands.   I am reminded of that whenever I pull out one of my tool boxes and see poly all over the top of it.   I am lucky I had no cars nearby.  Additionally, the first two finishes dissolve easily in their respective solvents.  WB finishes clean up easily with water.  Oil-based poly might clog up your sprayer if you don't get it clean very well.  And it's hard to get off if you don't.

Short answer

I have the Fuji Q5 turbine system with the T-75 gun.  It is a 5 stage system.  I would purchase it again.  I use exclusively the 1.0 mm & 1.3 mm tips.  The 3 stage system will support all woodworking finishes.  Do not have to worry about water contamination.  Danl

I can't really give good painting advice. My stuff usually ends up looking like-

 

 

But I do have one of the HF purple gravity guns that I use to spray the deck furniture with latex paint thinned 50% with water

Any suggestions for HVLP models? Is it better to go with a complete system OR get the spray gun with a few accessories and use my own compressor?

Using your compressor will save you some money. There are some very nice HVLP guns available for that. One difference between the two is that the turbine systems tend to blow very warm air (versus compressor). That can be a problem with some finishes. Also the hose on a turbine system is more like a garden hose, much thicker and a little more cumbersome than an air hose.  So (IMHO) one isn't isn't better than the other other, they are just different.  I use a turbine system, mine's a Fuji and i like it quite a bit. I do have a conversion gun that i bought quite some time back, a Wagner, and it works well. The Wagner is a bottom feeder, and my Fuji is a gravity gun...I prefer the gravity guns. I also switched over to the 3M PPS system. This uses disposable containers to hold the finish and at least for me was a real game changer. Clean up after use is now more like minutes than an hour. What you might consider is looking at the Homestead Finishing site. It's owned by Jeff Jewitt and he sells both the turbine and conversion systems (Fuji Turbines very high quality conversion guns). He also offers very good advice, so giving him a call or e mail might be very useful. BTW, that HF purple gun that Lew mentioned gets a lot of good press in some of these forums.

Edited November 7, 2025Nov 7 by Fred W. Hargis Jr

Thanks @Fred W. Hargis Jr! That's exactly what I was looking for. I've never heard of Homestead Finishing before, so that will be an excellent resource. I just checked out the site and it looks like it will be the place to go for getting myself a sprayer and to learn how to use it properly. I'm going to look at the HF model as well. It's always good to have options.

Jeff has written a few books on finishing, and I think his book  Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing is second only to the Bob Flexner book. But his business is well run and his cutsomer service is as good as it gets. 

Sorry for being wordy..

About one year ago I responded to numerous questions about spraying woodworking projects.  The following is my reply and my opinion.  I am still learning.

Question:

I'm in the market for a HVLP spray gun and possibly a system, but I don't want to break the bank in the process.  I do have a 40 gallon compressor, so I could run off that in the shop, but I will be need to do some  spraying inside as well.  Any recommendations or thoughts?

My reply:

I have the Fuji Q5 system and am happy with it.  If you limit your spraying just for woodworking projects IMO the Fuji 3 will support your needs.   With the turbo systems you do not have to deal with air contamination from water and oil.

I purchased the Fuji system after using a HPVL gun connected to a 33-gal compressor for many years.  With my old system I was getting good results, but I wanted a better finish and I did not want to purchase a larger compressor.  I mostly spray shellac (1#-2#) and Sherwin-Williams products which are water base.  I am pleased with the atomization and how the product lays down.  I believe the SW products I am using are similar to the Target products.  From what I read, the 3-stage operation pressure is ~7.5 psi, the 4-stage is ~9 psi and the 5-stage is 9.5 psi max.  As you know, the elements of spraying are product, temperature, humidity, pressure, needle size, flow rate, fan size, and ventilation.  Using the Fuji system allows you to pay less attention to pressure.  The 2, 3, & 4-stage systems do not have a dial to regulate pressure.  They have a qtr-turn valve on the hose if you desire to reduce the flow of air.  The 5-stage has the same qtr-turn valve (which I ignore) and has a dial on the turbine box to regulate pressure.  Fuji could do a better job in marking the motor speed increments on the turbine box.  I am still experimenting with pressure.  But, I get good results having full pressure knowing that I will get overspray.  I am somewhat amazed of the YouTube influencers who spray in their shops and do not have an exhaust fan to control overspray.  I chose the Q systems because I spray in my garage and do not like noise.  I lay down plastic tarps and move out my lawn equipment &  compressor.  More recently, I have tried spraying outside when the weather is nice.  Having a gentle/mild wind has increased the quality because the wind removes any overspray.  I did increase the pressure and product flow.  

Fuji could also do better in allowing the user to adjust product flow.  The adjustment on the gun is the same as all guns, but I find it not easy to repeat the same settings when making multiple adjustments when needed.  I.e. When spraying the interface between rails/stiles on panel assemblies.  They should have a dial which has numeric increments.  I take notes each time I spray. When I received my new system, I was getting leakage with the cup threads and inside the gun.  Fuji sent me a new cup which fixed that problem and instructed me to use more torque when assembling the gun.  No more leak issues.

Fuji available fluid tips are 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.8 mm, 2.0 mm, and 2.5 mm.  I use 1.0 mm for shellac and 1.3 mm for all clear SW products, inclusive of lacquer.  I used my 1.5 mm when I was spraying heavy pigmented SW products.    I have a 1.8 mm and 2.0 mm which I have not used.  I do not have the 0.8 mm nor 2.5 mm. 

 

Sherwin-Williams Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Plus clear (data sheet CC-F62)

Sherwin Williams Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Plus White (data sheet CC-F65)

Sherwin Williams Sher-Wood Kem Aqua Plus Surfacer (data sheet CC-F64)

Sherwin Williams Sher-Wood Hi-Bild Pre-cat Lacquer clear (data sheet CC-F57)

Sherwin Williams Sher-Wood Hi-Bild Pre-cat Lacquer white (data sheet CC-F60)

The products listed above are the Sherwin-Williams products I use.  They are all formulated for spraying.  I do not add a reducer, accelerator, or thin with water.  All are water based except for the lacquer.

 

I am very pleased with the performance of the SW WB products.  I am impressed on how it lays down even when I have applied too much.  It is difficult to get a run, but I have to admit that most of my spraying is on horizontal surfaces.  The clear appears white in the can and when 1st applied, but is clear when the evaporation starts.  I do not see hazing or blushing, but after I spray, I take the furniture piece inside before it starts to dry.  I have been using a wax free shellac (1-1/2 to 2#) as a seal coat before applying the Kem Aqua clear.  I use the Ken Aqua surfacer under the Kem Aqua White.  I have been spraying the Clear for 10 years.

I like to use the Kem Aqua White when I want to add color.  It is not a paint, but I use it when a painted product is desired.  The surfacer is like a primer.  The surfacer and the White can be tinted to any SW color number.  This goes well when you want to build a new drawer or door and you are not replacing the casework.  You can match the casework trim paint with the Kem Aqua used for the door/drawer.  Same is true with the White Lacquer.  All of these products meet KCMA requirements.  See data sheets for details. 

I am blessed to have a SW Industrial Products division store near me.  They sell Industrial products quantities in galloon containers, 5 gallon container, and 55 gallon drums.  They mix it on site.  Not all Commercial stores sell Industrial products in my area.  Danl

When selecting a gun, the sky is the limit on quality and price.  I believe the biggest mistake made is not understanding when selecting a gun, you need to consider the compressor and vice versa. The compressor needs to be able to produce the gun’s needed pressure and CFM.   Hose size and length can also affect the CFM and pressure.  You also need to have a water separator/filter, and a regulator.  I will assume your compressor does not have an oiler.  When looking for a HPLV gun, purchase one that has multiple tip sizes available.  You will get better results when you can select the appropriate tip size for the fluid being applied.

My first gun I purchase was a leap of faith and I received good results, knowing that temperature, humidity, pressure, fluid flow, fluid material, wood prep, tip size, body movement, fan size, room lighting, and exhaust air were a part of declaring success. 

 

My first gun was a Cartman H827W.  I scavenged from other guns to get the needed tip and cap sizes.

I spray finish in my garage or in my yard. My garage is just a garage. Nothing special. I have permanently added three 4 ft led lights above the bay where I spray, and I lay down tarps on the floor. Prior to spraying, I move out my lawn equipment and my air compressor. My vehicles are moved to across the street. If it gets windy, I lower the large garage door half-way, or close the door and open the walk-through door.

Spraying in the garage or yard is weather dependent. I spray when the temperature and humidity allow. When I spray outside, I have to be aware of the sun, wind, and floating pollen. With a gently breeze, there is no overspray, but I have had to adjust my fluid flow and pressure. I have also been using my kitchen for my clean room. When the furniture piece allows, I move it into the kitchen immediately after the finish is applied, The kitchen is climate controlled and bug and dust free. I do not spray in the yard if I cannot carry the piece immediately inside. All of this makes for a busy day. 

 

I was asked for advice, from a fellow local Guild member, about spray systems and in responding to him, I found this video which addresses the difference between a HPLV compressor system and a turbine system and compares a siphon gun vs a gravity feed. If you want to add a pressure pot, you may need additional information.

Happy spraying. Danl

 

 

@Danl. Thank-you Dan for taking your time to post and share your the details and experience and recommendations; much appreciated.

I bought this electric All-in-One HVLP sprayer from Lee Valley. I can't tell you how good it is. It's awesome. When I worked at LV, I used it often to spray product booth setups.