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This post was recognized by John Morris!

JimM was awarded the badge 'Great Content' and 10 points.

"Looking good Jim, great way to utilize that table saw!"

I had built some cabinets last fall and finally started the doors this week.  They are a simple flat panel/shaker style but the M&T is a first go for me.  It's all done with a dado setup on the table saw.  There are a total of 20 doors, with 1/2" overlay.

 

I wanted to share this to let others know that no special jigs are needed to make doors using this method.

 

After ripping the stiles and rails, I made the 1/4" dado groove for the recessed panel and the tenons.

 

Then clamped the stiles to the work table at the proper width.  The stiles are not cut to length yet.

 

I measured the length for the rails plus the total 1/2" for the tenon depth.  Several trials and small adjustments at the saw to get a decent fit.

 

Cutting the panels to fit and the stiles to length tomorrow and ready for glue up.  

 

MT.thumb.jpg.8686babd50e77b7315cafec97a2dfb6a.jpg

 

MT1.thumb.jpg.adcece928ff27ef353f95517bde1d338.jpg

 

 

MT3.thumb.jpg.10e647e0ec893ab66822f8e075f078b3.jpg  

 

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Edited by JimM

Thanks Jim. Following along. Are your panels going to be 1/4" ply?

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The problem with 1/4 groves is the new plywoods. They are thinner than a 1/4 and often need to be shimmed from the back…

 

Now if you use 1/4 MDF core veneers . It’s usually pretty  good..

 

We always called the new plywoods “Chinese plywood, give you less , charge you more”

 

 

Nice work Jim, looking forward to seeing more.

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21 minutes ago, BillyJack said:

The problem with 1/4 groves is the new plywoods. They are thinner than a 1/4 and often need to be shimmed from the back…

So true.  I had to test fit the dado with the plywood and a few adjustments with the dado shims were needed. 

But I have found some decent 1/4" maple ply at the blue box in this area.  It's close to a true 1/4" and not a bad price.  

Just be careful with with your purchase. These places often have great looking plywoods, but are extremely thin if sanding is needed.

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used the same technique to build our kitchen many years ago.  all done on the TS.

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a few pics:

 

raised panels also done on the TS with a vertical jig i made.

DSC_2750.jpeg

DSC_2746.jpeg

22 minutes ago, DAB said:

a few pics:

Good looking kitchen there DAB!

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It only took me 11 months to finish this entertainment center. I just love the raised panel and the cherry. Looks like it may not have a place in the new house , but that does remain to be determined . This one has 14 raised panels. Used a Somerfield set for this .PB252127(Medium).JPG.37c20bdf961e2c8c151d84a57c4fa2ae.JPG

 

IMG_0432.thumb.JPG.7be36ab18db9057d43b8c7d0fb667bff.JPG 

7 hours ago, Gerald said:

Looks like it may not have a place in the new house

Time to redo the plans or add a room so it will fit.

You can definitely see the difference between table saw raised panels and router or shaper..

On 3/12/2025 at 4:00 PM, JimM said:

ready for glue up.  

So how's it going Jim!

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I like raised panel work regardless of how they are made.

I've done them on a shaper, table saw, and with a hand plane.

 

After the first time doing them on the shaper, I made the vertical TS jig to rough them out so I could do a single pass on the shaper.  Oddly no one in that shop had thought of doing that, they all just did multiple passes on the shaper.  I then got the boss to have the shaper cutter for raised panels sharpened so it wouldn't burn, we'd save time in the sanding shop, and the sanding staff wouldn't waller out the nice flat surface of the cut when sanding out the burns.  The irony of all that is that after getting the cutter sharpened, one of the other guys complained to me because now he tended to over cut when he made a raised panel!  Man.... custom shops!  

 

I will say though, that sort of experience in my 20's really sharpened my tendency to question the "we've always done it this way" mentality that I have found everywhere I've worked.  In the career that actually stuck, having sharpened that tendency into a work ethic has really paid off.

 

Sorry for the hijack!

 

Good work on the doors Jim.  Isn't it satisfying to make a real jump forward on a long term project?

On 3/13/2025 at 8:13 AM, BillyJack said:

The problem with 1/4 groves is the new plywoods. They are thinner than a 1/4 and often need to be shimmed from the back…

 

Now if you use 1/4 MDF core veneers . It’s usually pretty  good..

 

First time I used 1/4 MDF core was in that shop with the shaper cutter and old habits.  Initially I didn't like the stuff, because it was MDF core and thus I didn't consider it as good as a solid panel or plywood. 

 

But really it's great stuff to have.  Saves you a ton of time and the dimensioning is so much less fussy than plywood.  Flatter too.  And really, it is just as strong as it needs to be.  Plus the scraps are useful and you don't feel bad using them for whatever - there's always going to be more (same with solid wood scraps, but a lot of us feel like we need to reserve those for "the right" use - 90% irrationally).

A 1/4 solid panels is a cracked panel over time if used in a  door. Why the use 3/8 on panels to give it stability.Many make a 1/2-3/4 panel turned backwards to give it a solid panel , but a flat look. 

Edited by BillyJack

Setting up doors and making doors is a bit of a process. Takes patience to achieve a good look. Many watch cabinet, drawer and door videos and assume it’s easy, it’s not..

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First door glued up. No glue on the panel, at least intentionally!


Actually there are 10 doors. I had the number 20 in my head since that is the total stiles and rails needed. Duh!


IMG_4712.thumb.jpeg.d6c055670bb7999d793002cbf1b223d1.jpegIMG_4711.thumb.jpeg.ea6cc622d46702567d74d8fb719edd3e.jpeg

2 hours ago, BillyJack said:

A 1/4 solid panels is a cracked panel over time if used in a  door. Why the use 3/8 on panels to give it stability.Many make a 1/2-3/4 panel turned backwards to give it a solid panel , but a flat look. 

 

Huh.... well I'm sure that is what your experience tells you.

 

It’s called warranty.. repairs and replacements cost more than the original door.

 

JDW… let me be clear and you can take this as my experience or not. All my experience comes from training received from many companies over the years. This includes training  from other cabinet makers affiliated with those shops. Over the years this becomes skill and other shops value this and hire your expertise.,

 

”Huh.... well I'm sure that is what your experience tells you.”

 

So… yes

Edited by BillyJack

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