Started it up and heard a loud knocking sound. Totally disassembled it. Found the cause. A loose nut. Tightened it and, reassembled it. Took about 6 hours, over 3 days. Those with more mechanical aptitude....and, the proper tools... coulda done it in far less time, I'm sure.  But, it's all together, now. And, runs like a top. It came to me with several old, used blades. I put one in to just run it. Now to order a selection of flat and spiral blades. I'm anxious to start the long road to semi proficiency. 

 

 

I had one of the hawk units, and the variable speed control went out, and of course they weren't servicing them, then i found who was, and it was going to be necessary to send motor and board back to them so they could repair, i opted to sell unit (it was stuck on go fast) in lieu of repairing, i do have a very old craftsman i use occassionally, louder than a freight train, but gets job done

 

congrats on repair, and only can go upward and onward now

rj in az

I think you got advice about the blades in another post (that i didn't follow entirely), so in case this place wasn't mentioned...the Flying Dutchman blades are super.

Not a scroller. That looks like a really nice machine. 
 

I have a really old Bridgewood that uses pin blades. Rarely use it but it does come in handy at times 

1 hour ago, lew said:

Not a scroller. That looks like a really nice machine. 
 

I have a really old Bridgewood that uses pin blades. Rarely use it but it does come in handy at times 

I'm not one either, Lew. But, one's never too old to learn something new. 

Now that I've seen, here and, other places, what can be done with the scroll saw, I'm anxious to try my hand at it.

That's a great machine Gene.  Now it's down to practice, practice, practice

You got that right, Cal. Looking forward to a good amount of practice time. Starting the day my blades arrive. 

Gene about the best prices on Flying Dutchman are from TheWoodenTeddy.com

I forgot, if your get the saw hung up while running, it will blow a fuse. If it still has the original it is on the right side at the rear. I took it out and installed a regular fuse holder.  The # 5's are about all I ever use unless I'm cutting metal.

Gene, glad you got it up and running.  I hate it when one of my nuts get loose - especially the one in front of the saw and it's running.    Time to make some sawdust and get the ultra clean bench full of sawdust.

@Smallpatch, I sure hope I never blow a fuse! I hate the thought of having to open it up again. I'll be using a Deadman foot pedal. Hopefully, I can cut the power before the fuse blows.

What blades do you use for which metals?

Gene there should be a square black box on the right side near the rear with a regular round fuse. Its kinda tricky removing it. You should not have to open the saw up to replace the fuse. 

 I think its a good idea anytime you go inside the saw to use something like wheel bearing grease on all the moving joints. I use car wheel bearing grease mixed with a little Mobil One. But keep it thick enough so it won't run.

   Sometimes you have to crank in on the long rod that you can see when opening up the top area to remove loud clanking and here you need to only go a couple rounds and see it that helps.

 And it works for me to not bolt the saw down. It just sits on the table so I can swivel it one way or the other when sawing long pieces and it sits on pieces of tire inter tubes or the drawer liner stuff for motor home drawers.

Aha! Found that little fuse block. Thanks.

It sits on a metal table so, I have the tool box drawer liner stuff from HF at the ready. 

When I had it all opened up, I tried to tighten that connection. Must've done something because it doesn't knock any more. To do the job right, I really need a set of thin wrenches to get at the nut. 

Gene what do you plan on making.

these are easy to make. This is some small pictures I found in a catalog of, the wooden teddy bear.com

I enlarged them about double size

or more and printed them out and glued them on some Baltic Birch from Woodworkers Source and they are closer to you than me.  And if I can't get Baltic Birch plywood then it don't get done.

  When trimming small branches off of the trees we save the larger part then saw them up slanted so I have more working surface. And this is the cheaper way of making things and probably look better than plywood.

  and I don't mind saying I hope you only ever use regular blades and never the spiral kind. Learning to control the blade takes many moons and the spiral gives no learning experiences. These were all cut out with a dutchman # 5  and I think its best to start out using the reverse tooth models.  The smaller blade is very hard to use. They will kick the wood up some but this is one of the things that need to be learned how to do...

   Also I noticed some holes in the wood I never got around to inserting the blades in for more cuts outs in those areas. These holes are about half the size of a 1/16" bit. Once you cut out those areas the holes will disappear. These are number bits. The wooden teddy bear sells then six in a package.

   I run my Dewalt on #5 tightness plus make sure you take out all the slack the blade in...I always use the top to screw for inserting a blade.. Some folks prefer using the bottom screw...? It don't matter

  Or you can free hand something to make

Edited July 15, 20223 yr by Smallpatch

Jesse, to begin with, just circles and, simple to cut out patterns until I get the hang of it, somewhat. Eventually, angled cuts and compound cuts. I don't see any filigree in my future. 

 

Beautiful!