Hello to all my ShopSmith brethren. If you are watching/reading some of the same threads that I am, Headhunter has made a beautiful Walnut Kissmas Tree. I have been asked by me Missus to try and make one, also. Buying final dimension Walnut from Woodcraft is RAAATHER expensive. Maybe it’s time I took the training wheels off and tried to be a real WW’er, so if I get to the point where I buy some Walnut by the board foot, and dimension it myself, I may have to do some resawing. My bandsaw is the Shopsmith one. What blade (s) would you all recommend? When I bought the SS I bought multiple bandsaw blades. I have so far only used the 1/4 inch one. I believe for resawing you want the widest possible blade?  Any thoughts/opinions/advice/hints to learn me how to do this would be appreciated. Thank you, Artie

You are right, Artie. 1/2 inch is what I use to resaw. It doesn't turn easily so it is easier to maintain a straight line. Also, the teeth are bigger and fewer so it cuts quicker. Make either a chalk line or pencil line and follow it. The little cedar box I made a couple months back was 4/4 that I ripped with a SS bandsaw. Looking forward to you progress.

Thank you Steve. If I have a blade wider than 1/2, is that better suited?

Yes. I think that the biggest blade for Ss is 5/8. Either will do a fine job.

@FlGatorwood, can the SS BS handle a 5/8", I thought 1/2" was max.

Anyway, if 1/2" is max, here is what you would want Artie, just as important as the width is the TPI, in your resaw case the 4 TPI would be good. Fewer teeth for aggressive cutting and discharge of the material.

 

Quote

1/2" Woodcutting Blade - 4 TPI Hooked Tooth - .025" thick: Heavy duty blade for resawing and cutting of wood or plywood up to 6" thick. 2" minimum radius.

Shopsmith Premium Bandsaw Blades

WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM

 

 

Years ago there was a 5/8 blade. I never had one but not enough between the 2 widths to make a big difference.

 

John, you are so right about the number of teeth. 3 or 4 teeth will remove more material especially if the board is 5 to 6 inches wide. The fewer teeth the deeper the gullet to remove material quickly and efficiently. As the tooth rakes the wood the gullet will store the shaving until it exits the cut. 

Here is a handy video too, I watched this a year ago when I was re-sawing something, it was helpful.

 

 

1 hour ago, FlGatorwood said:

Years ago there was a 5/8 blade. I never had one but not enough between the 2 widths to make a big difference.

 

As you can see in the video, he's using a 5/8", so I guess you can!

I use a 5/8 Timberwolf blade for resawing. I'd highly recommend Carter guides for any blade. Can't tell if Doug is using them but, it's a good bet that he is.

 

Thank you, Gene. I have wanted these Carter bearing guides for many years but could not figure out how to install them.  This presentation makes it very simple. Also, I never use a guide on either of my bandsaws thus the reason for using a chalk line or drawn line by pencil. When using a fence or guide my blade always pulls the wood from the fence until it will bind. So I free hand on my line then pull out the sanding disk and straighten the cuts. Just me and my hill billy ways.

 

BTW, I reviewed Doug Reid's saw. I enlarged the picture to see the guides and it appears to me that he is using cool blocks. And from time to time I have to file the ends by the blade to flatten them. So Carter guides look more promising to me. 

I like Doug, I bought my SS through him. Thank you, everyone! Artie

Before the Carter guides, I'd cut oak for the (cool) blocks and soak them in used motor oil. Worked fine for me. 

30 minutes ago, Artie said:

I like Doug, I bought my SS through him. Thank you, everyone! Artie

Artie, that fence alignment for drift is a cool trick Doug shows us in that video, I never saw it or heard of it till this video, so simple!

I bought the bandsaw when I bought the SS 6 years ago. does anyone know if the cool blocks are included on the new band saw a? Or is this an after purchase add on? Carter Guide kit, cool blocks if not provided, any other suggestions for me to turn the band saw into a resawing dynamo?

Don't know about the newer models, but my circa 1978 saw came with metal guides. I'm not sure what sort of metal, though. They were a soft type. Had to be softer than the blades they were to guide. 

The Carter guides were purchased from Carter.  A few things done to my saw that I think the new ones now incorporate is a viewing window to see the tension gauge, a hole cut in the back to receive the hex key for tensioning and a hole and hose adapter for a 4" DC hose at the bottom opposite the power connector. And, since the housing is plastic, I epoxied a round, thin metal plate just above th SS logo, to hold a magnet based goose neck lamp. Before that mod, it was a stand made from 2X4s with a T at the top,  to which an old aluminum shaded, 100 watt work light was clamped. A real tripping hazard. Plus it burned my fingers every time it had to be adjusted. 

Edited January 17, 20224 yr by Gene Howe

The steel blocks will only look black. Cool blocks will be a gray color with tiny white streaks. Either of those are pretty much standard issue. A magnet will tell you quickly if it is steel or cool blocks. 

 

My units came with steel blocks to which I changed to cool blocks. Need to order some new ones because these are 15 or 16 years old. I have filed them a couple of times.

Edited January 17, 20224 yr by FlGatorwood

It looks to me that the BS came with cool blocks, it also looks like i don’t have them adjusted properly LOL. So would the community consensus be that adding Carter Guides, would be an upgrade? I bought the BS fence (kinda surprised me at the time, that it wasn’t included with the BS).And am thinking of getting the Carter Guides, squaring up the table, installing the 1/2 blade, (I checked, I did buy one with the SS), and then fitting the fence to the table ala Doug Reid. After all that it’s a visit to The Woodery. This is a lumberyard, maybe 25 minutes from the house that states they like dealing with non professional WW’ers as well as the professionals. ima gonna get me some Walnut! 

Forgot to post the picture DUH!

You are on your way Artie. Yes those appear to be cool blocks. Adjust as shown by Doug and make some sawdust. 

Yep. Those look like what came with mine, all those many years ago. They are adjusted with a dollar bill. Wrap the bill around the back of the blade and, push both blocks tight against it...just loose enough to be able to pull the bill out. Or, use a $50. That way, you will think before pushing the guides in too tight. 

Or, just get the Carter guides and forget all the adjustment rigamarole.