Years ago, I used a product on "antiques" that was for "refinishing without stripping".  I used it several times with good results, but it has been quite awhile since then.  Memory fails me, I cannot recall the products name, and searching the web has not produced any answers.  It was basically a solvent that would dissolve the finish and re-flow it.  The product set included gloves to use with it.  If I remember correctly, rags and/or steel wool were used, dipped in the liquid.  The color remained, and the finish ended up looking kind of like a hand rubbed finish.

 

Does anybody know what the product was, and whether it is still available?

 

Thanks, Bunsen

The only thing that comes to mind was ZipStrip.  

I got in to refinishing furniture in 1955 and been doing it often since then. Honestly this sounds like a fairy tale. If I read you correctly you put something liquid on an old finish, rub it around a while then leave it alone then wa-la you have a new product on you piece of furniture. Do you remember how you removed the steel wool and rags for those things would be saturated with the solvent type stuff you started with.

I think there use to be a product one could brush something over the old finish and it would maybe in some peoples mind it was almost like refinishing furniture. It didn't soften the old varnish type original finish of many years ago and in my way of thinking it was a disaster but some folks used it.. I noticed a guy here has shown some pictures of what he so called renewed his furniture?

  Too bad you can't remember the name. I'm not trying to be a smart arse but there is only one way to refinish furniture.

Something like Homer Formsby?

@kmealy

I believe Jim has the answer.  Never tried it myself but heard of it on TV.  Amazon has it.

 

Wow, $75!...and the statements made (dissolves old varnish [twice], protective coat of tung oil, old finish melted down completely) sound like, well, not true. But if they are, it's probably worth $75.

So this is all in that one can. Wow!

 

I think every one should buy a few cans, that is every one but me.

 

I remember something along that powerful line of thoughts when I was a kid. Had-a-Call was the name.. It came in a bottle. 

Edited January 16, 20224 yr by Smallpatch

Hey Dan, thanks for the alls.  The most used tools in my shop not counting the commode!

I have to center punch starter holes where any real small drill bits are used or else the very small drill bits go walking off the mark and breaks in two. Wife says thanks but they are too cute to use and tarnish the wonderful workmanship..... 

12 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

Hey Dan, thanks for the alls.  The most used tools in my shop not counting the commode!

I have to center punch starter holes where any real small drill bits are used or else the very small drill bits go walking off the mark and breaks in two. Wife says thanks but they are too cute to use and tarnish the wonderful workmanship..... 

 

You're welcome Jess.  Let me know how the tips hold up.  Tell Bernadette to use hers, give it some character.

If this (Formsby) is indeed what @bunsen used with good results, why would we doubt his results? He obviously liked it, it worked for him. I'd like to see his next project using this formula! Go Bunsen!

If it had the methylene chloride in it (Dan's info above) it's almost certainly on the extinct list by now. But that does explain why it dissolves varnish!

Edited January 16, 20224 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

John we don't know what bunsen used. Someone else came up with a brand name.

 

Anything that is strong enough to soften any old finish and especially with the steel wool added in to the equation certainly can't reinvent itself into a finish worth having on a piece of furniture.

 

I used steel wool after I used the remover and after all the old finish was pushed off on to the floor. Then while the residue was still wet, this is how I dried the wood and made sure there was no residue of the old finish left in the cracks and creviouses. I dipped the steel wool in to lacquer thinner and went completely over all the wood. Any old finish left anywhere on that piece of furniture will shine wet looking and easy to spot..Then 15 minutes after the lacquer thinner dried I could start sanding the piece and get it ready for a new finish.

23 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

I have to center punch starter holes where any real small drill bits are used or else the very small drill bits go walking off the mark and breaks in two.

 I was gifted one from his first batch and use it the same way Jess. Has held up nicely.

1 hour ago, Smallpatch said:

John we don't know what bunsen used. Someone else came up with a brand name.

Ya I get that, if it was though, who are we too say it didn't work as Bunsen stated?

 

1 hour ago, Smallpatch said:

Anything that is strong enough to soften any old finish and especially with the steel wool added in to the equation certainly can't reinvent itself into a finish worth having on a piece of furniture.

I like to keep an open mind Jess, if Bunsen stated he used something that did as he advertised, then what, are we calling him crazy? He doesn't know what he's talking about? He's delusional?

What he experienced with the product he used was not a "fairy tale". I'd be offended if someone told me what I know I used and worked for me, was a fairy tale. Just trying to keep it welcoming for Bunsen our new member here, and hey, I don't pretend to know what I think I knew is the last word on finishing or any aspect of woodworking, nothing surprises me anymore when it comes to our wonderful hobby/craft/trade.

 

Just a musing, Shellac can reinvent itself, done it.

I'm, sorry John

26 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

I'm, sorry John

You're fine Jess! Just another perspective from another knucklehead, me!

On 1/15/2022 at 11:40 PM, lew said:

@kmealy

The Formsby stuff was what came to mind.  Methylene Chloride is the stripping ingredient in most paint strippers, but many companies have quit selling it because some knuckleheads killed themselves with insufficient ventilation (vapors are heavier than air and at least one was doing it in in a bathtub and leaning into it).

 

The other option is to use acetone or lacquer thinner as a wipe on, assuming the original finish is lacquer or shellac.  Both will be fast drying.   I use these as a scrubbing clean-up after stripping with an NMP (N-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidon).

 

So, there is a choice between a lot of scrubbing and put it on, wait, and scrape it off.

 

Any stripping should be done with good ventilation.

 

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/methylene-chloride-part-2-some-retailers-take-certain-paint-strippers-off-their-shelves/

OK everybody, yes, I probably am crazy, but I still have the little pans (looks like a mini bread pan) that came in the kits.  I did use a lot of Formby's products back then, and that is a good possibility.  The kit also had a pair of gloves that stood up to the solvents, along with warnings of plenty of fresh air.  To use it, you would pour some into the pan, and use a pad on the finish.  Now that I think about it, I probably did follow up with tung or danish oil.  The process did not raise grain, or loosen joints, and left the wood looking good with only the need of a sprucing up with an oil finish.

 

You need to be careful to use gloves meant for the materials you are using.  When I was gainfully employed, I worked with lots of chemicals, from solvents to acids and bases.  We had several different types of gloves we used.

 

I did a search on "formbys 30010 furniture refinisher", and the directions for use sure look familiar, so I am going to say that is probably what I used. 

 

Sorry Smallpatch, I was happy with it, but I was just refinishing some old furniture I bought at auctions.  No sanding was needed, in my mind, but I am crazy.

 

Thanks John :-)

 

Bunsen