So probably everyone who reads this knows I make lots of the Kissmas Trees from the Woodcraft magazine. I have used Poplar on all of them so far. When I drill the pockets for the kisses, sometimes the bottom of the pocket gets splintery/raised grain. This doesn’t help the painting process. I was thinking of trying Pine instead of Polar. It’s less expensive, and there really isn’t much of a bearing load  . Any reasons why Pine instead of Poplar is a bad idea?

 

One quick thought, would using a router bit to carve out the pocket maybe do a better job? I was thinking of a bit like this might do a better job but then again I'm unfamiliar with these trees. Have a picture of one of your's can post?

Good idea, Steve. With Artie's Power Pro, turning that bit to speed would be easy. Keep it in horizontal drilling mode and flip the branches. Batch them out quickly. 

Artie, What are you using for a drill bit ? If you're not already using one, maybe a forstner bit would eliminate the problem. Or maybe as suggested by others, a router bit. HEY, I've got 3 dead poplars standing on my property. You're  welcomed to them. 

Your choice of finish might be a consideration.  I've found that pine is pretty pitchey (is that a word?) which could affect the finish.  If you're leaning toward a softer wood, I've had good luck with basswood.  It's easy to find in my neck of the NE, and priced like clear pine.  Just my $.02.

And x2 what Al said.

Edited January 3, 20224 yr by JimM

don't drill pockets?

Artie if you are using a forstner bit only go until the tip sticks out the bottom of the wood then turn the wood over and drill from the bottom. This gives you a smooth edge of the holes from either direction. The old type hole saws with the drill bit sticking out drill until the drill bit sticks out the bottom then flip the wood over and finish drilling the hole. It gives the same results as the forstner bit but not as professional looking.

  If drilling lots of holes in the same thickness set the depth gauge so the bit stops the same each time  so there won't be any guessing.

I am with AlB about using a Forstner bit. Usually cuts the hole rather cleanly. Paddle bits will tear and splinter the wood. 

I’m hoping this picture and my post will explain things. There are 30- branches if you will with no pockets in the very bottom one. So 29 branches with an average of 4 pockets per branch, 116 pockets. I started with a 7/8 Fisch Wave Cutter Forster bit, but some of the Kisses didn’t sit in it as much as on it, so I got a Fisch Wave Cutter 15/16 Forster bit. (Only place I found where I could order just the 15/16 bit was Highland Woodworking) I thought that after making roughly 21 of these trees maybe the bit had gotten dull, so I bought another one. (Cause I don’t know if you can sharpen a Forster bit, but I sure can’t  ) I’m not sure of one of those router bits would cut, coming straight down like a Forster bit. I use a milk paint (General finishes I think) Westminster Green. Here’s a picture. I was thinking pine cause I can get that at a BORG pretty cheap.

Dab, absolutely, no pockets would halve the time to make these, but I think the pockets make i a better piece. I have tried a find a Forster, hole saw, or some other bit that would cut the hole without the center hole, but haven’t found one. I don’t think that bull nose router bit would drill effienctly straight down.

I was thinking that maybe a plunge router with one of these 

https://www.toolstoday.com/v-13371-45182.html

Artie,  what are you using to secure the piece while drilling? A jig and clamp? Or just hand pressure?

Lew, I ordered one. I dunno how easy setting up a jig for a plunge router would be? The SS Pro max’s at 10,000 RPM, but it’s easy to set up drill press mode. It  will probably take longer, but if it has a noticeably cleaner cut than I’ve got the time. My requests are up to 8 more trees. I’m just thinking that pine would be softer, so maybe easier/cleaner cutting? 

2 minutes ago, Wichman3 said:

Artie,  what are you using to secure the piece while drilling? A jig and clamp? Or just hand pressure?

So far I’ve been using a Southbend drill press, with a drill press table. There’s a fence with stops, and I just use hand pressure to keep the piece in place against the fence and stop.

I would highly recommend some sort of clamp, either the vice grip style drill press clamp   https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-drill-press-locking-clamp-36221.html

 or a jig with a toggle clamp   https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-vertical-toggle-clamp-96238.html

one issue with tear out is the piece moving while it's being drilled, these methods would eliminate that movement. And they are not expensive.

 

Well now that I know what you are doing I can answer more knowledgeable. A forstner bit will drill the desired depth but before you pull the bit out of the hole let it turn on the bottom of the hole a few seconds and that will knock off the fuzzies. I hope you are using a drill press for you can set it so all the holes are the same depth. Why are you not liking the guide hole in the middle of the hole.  It's there so like it! But if you are using a drill press you could grind off the guide and the hole would be flat but then it would be useless with a hand held drill.

The worse pine to use is southern yellow pine for it has some very hard and soft spots close together and will make it very hard to drill in exact spots when using the hand held drill.

 I don't like poplar because of the fuzzies and getting a good smooth finish with paint takes lots of extra time.

1 hour ago, Wichman3 said:

I would highly recommend some sort of clamp, either the vice grip style drill press clamp   https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-drill-press-locking-clamp-36221.html

 or a jig with a toggle clamp   https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-vertical-toggle-clamp-96238.html

one issue with tear out is the piece moving while it's being drilled, these methods would eliminate that movement. And they are not expensive.

 

The drill press table came with clamps, I can use them on one tree and see how much of a difference I get. It will take much longer, but if the hole is what I want, well I got the time.  

Forstners can be sharpened. Here is a video but there may be other methods.

 

Artie,

 

The bit Lew showed will work well with your SS in horizontal boring mode. Or drill press if you want to take the time to do the setup. Easy to align and move the workpiece against the fence and the depth stop will insure consistent holes. I used to do this when I was making stuff for the trophy shop with walnut and never had any issues with it. Poplar or pine should be a breeze.

I would also set the drill press speed at the top of the rated speed or one step higher on the drill press speed (pulley system).