I am pretty old school when it comes to schematics, its all paper and pencil but in broad strokes the specs are as follows:

 

Main Cabinet:  3/4” Ply
Top / Bottom - 46 1/4” x 14” w/ 1/4” dado 1/4” in from the back
Sides - 20” x 14” w/ 1/4” dado 1/4” inch from the back - 3/4” dado 3/8” deep 1/2” from the bottom - 3/4” rabbet 3/8” deep at the top
Back - 1/4” ply - 46” x 18 1/2”
Separator - 3/4” ply 18” x 13 1/2” positioned 28” from Left side - Glued and screwed

 

All drawers are quarter quarter quarter assembled using 1/2 ply for all elements

 

Left drawers - 
Fronts - 27” x 8” 
Rails - 12 1/2” x 8”
Bottom - 26 1/2” x 12 1/2”

 

Right drawers - 
Fronts - 15 7/8” x 12” (Bottom) and 4” (Top)
Rails - 12 1/2” x 12” (Bottom) and 4” (Top)
Bottom - 15 3/8” x 12 1/2

 

Overall Dimensions are 47” W, 20” H, 14” D
Drawers have 1/2” clearance on each side for heavy duty 12” full extension side mount rails and are sized to accommodate a 1/2” thick drawer face. 

 

Other Elements - carriage tube hangers, I understand these are slightly different per model so I sized them for mine.  They are 14” x 8” made of 1/2” ply and have cutouts for the carriage tubes.   The cabinet was raised 3/4” off the floor using scrap and I installed two 3/8” carriage bolts to connect the main cabinet to the hangers.  I used a couple of countersunk 1” screws just for good measure and to hold things square while I drilled the carriage bolt holes.

You might want to measure things out and check my math before you get too far into it but those are the numbers I have scribbled down and I think they are accurate.

Nice follow up @Static_LV, appreciate the dimensions.

I would post a schematic but I don’t think a picture of my notebook would make much sense to anyone but me

Nice work, and well thought out! And I might add that for someone who has only been here for three months, you have learned quickly. A little sawdust on the floor (in your pictures) prevents a lot of annoying nit-picking regarding an overly clean shop! Well done!

2 hours ago, Static_LV said:

I would post a schematic but I don’t think a picture of my notebook would make much sense to anyone but me

 

Most of us only have some scribble on a napkin. Occasionally you might see something regarding a measurement. For me, might be metric or could be imperial.

19 hours ago, Static_LV said:

Got the rest of the drawers finished up today, mounted and everything stuffed into them with a fair amount of storage space left over (for more accessories), Still need to do drawer faces to finish them off properly, but so far things have come together nicely.
I am still working on a chisel storage solution but that is almost designed out and I will get that built in the next day or so. 

Progress pictures…

 

 

 

Michael,

Nice looking cabinet.  May I suggest for the next cabinet drawers you make, consider swopping the sides and back/front construction methods.  You will have a better constructed drawer.

Danl

 

 

 

Good call.  Lock rabbet drawers are great but for this application quarter x 3 will work just fine and are more forgiving.
If I was using hardwood this would have been my first choice but I am just knocking these together with 1/2” plywood.

Edited January 3, 20224 yr by StaticLV2

On 12/30/2021 at 9:17 PM, Grandpadave52 said:

Even the worst day in your shop beats the best day on a J-O-B.

Hey, no profanity.   Reported to mods.

 

Wrapped up the undercabinet tonight, things came together reasonably well.

I think the cutout handles will wind up being funnels for sawdust but the alternative was putting on exterior hands that I would immediately drop the table carriage posts on and break.  

I am not super happy with the cheap rails and how they lock in place, but I just couldn’t see my way clear to putting Blum sliders on shop furniture so I will live with it

In retrospect, the bottom drawers are both 1/2” too tall so if anyone uses the measurements I posted earlier, make sure to take note of that.  

 

Yes I debated trimming out the front with a 1/8” strip of walnut just for the contrast but then good sense got the better of me and I will not be doing that on shop fixtures at this time.  Just because you can, doesn’t necessarily mean you should.

Edited January 4, 20224 yr by StaticLV2

I have never found the need for toe space on them. The table is far enough forward that it doesn’t seem to be an issue. 
Paul

Looks good Static. Did you put a finish on it? If not might consider it. Will help keep smudges, finger prints from showing over time. Will minimize sawdust from collecting too. Coat of Johnsons paste wax will help also. JMO.

Edited January 4, 20224 yr by Grandpadave52

No finish as of yet, I usually don't finish shop furniture and just let it build a patina of use, spills, smudges, etc... over time.

 

48 minutes ago, Static_LV said:

No finish as of yet, I usually don't finish shop furniture and just let it build a patina of use, spills, smudges, etc... over time.

 

 

Have some fun with it.

 

1 hour ago, Gunny said:

Have some fun with it.

 

I love your style Gunny. Hey, there may be enough new guys here by now who haven't see your purple cammo's yet?

As an entry on the ongoing evolution of said cabinet, I built a rack for the few turning gouges I actually know how to use.
It hangs on the front left when in use and on the back on the head stock side when not.  It is mounted with 3/8” dowels which should plenty for that application.

That works !

Paul