22 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

Thank you, Artie.  After our smoke alarms reached the ripe old age of 10 years old, they were trashed and new ones in their place.  The new ones lasted about 6 months and they went into the trash can.  These are about 1 year old with new batteries.  They are hardwired with battery backups, but sometimes in the evening, they will chirp until they start sounding in unison.  Wow! That crap is loud.  Then about 2 or 3 am they will chorus together for a few seconds.  So, I turned off the circuit breaker and removed the batteries.  When I removed the batteries, I also drained the capacitors so there was no residual charge on the alarms so they could chirp.  We have been without alarms for a few months now.  It may be because I bought the cheap ones.  Going to investigate to see if there are better ones.  Artie, I really appreciate your info and advice.  

Steve, if they can solve our Covid problems this year, maybe I need to combine a Disney road trip with the Missus, and a visit to see you, and your shop. I’ll bring some tools, you put a couple burgers on the grill, and good times will be had by all. 

As Artie said do not use the 50 cent receptacles especially on high use or high current applications such in bathrooms or kitchens.   They will fail.  The spec grade only cost a little more.  And I like Artie I will use 20 amp  receptacles on 20 amp circuits.   But if it is a 15 amp circuit use the better 15a receptacles.   Same for switches.  Roly 

3 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Is your house a pre-fab?

Nope, stick built on foundation, original receptacles from the year it was built, 1991. The reason why we are changing them out is many are too loose to hold the plug in.

I want to thank all here, you all helped me a whole lot, and a special thanks to Artie for that very thorough explanation that really deserves a blog its own, thanks again Artie!

Artie,  sometime back, my refrigerator stopped running. Thought it was going to have to be replaced. My electrician friend who  wired my generator service came to help. When checking the amperage, he kept getting different readings. After installing a new box he kept getting the same results. To make a long story short, after a bit of tracing, he discovered another junction box in that circuit with a loose connection. He replaced that box and the problem was solved. The refrigerator worked great. I would never have figured that out myself.

Edited January 9, 20215 yr by Al B

2 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

Nothing helps.  Any recommendations?  

 

 

You can TRY blowing them out, doubt it will work.  Just replace them.  We had terrible time with them in Iraq due to dust contamination.  They lasted 3-5 months tops.  I know, one of my many "other duties as assigned" was to inspect, and replace as needed.  So they got dated and such.  Actually a regulation.

3 hours ago, Artie said:

PLEASE DON”T USE THESE!

 

 

I waited for you to chime in, being this is your occupation.  But I cringed when I saw that style of outlet.  As others mentioned go with the more expensive outlets of the style @Artie suggested.  I have replaced all mine in the house after finding those cheapie ones.  My boss flips houses and puts them in, I just shake my head.

Come on down, Artie. Will see if I can get the grand daughters room cleaned out for you and you and the Missus can spend a few days.  

2 hours ago, Gunny said:

 

 

You can TRY blowing them out, doubt it will work.  Just replace them.  We had terrible time with them in Iraq due to dust contamination.  They lasted 3-5 months tops.  I know, one of my many "other duties as assigned" was to inspect, and replace as needed.  So they got dated and such.  Actually a regulation.

Yes, I do that every month with a can of compressed air, but I can't tell any change.  Guess I'll replace them again.  First ones were cheapies and they only chirped 2 or 3 times in 10 years.  Will scout for a better product.  Thanks.  

So, the amp is what gets through and the volts keeps kicking.  I understood ohm.  He is always in the way.  LOL

The code was updated last year (yeah 2020) and every three years iirc.  Years ago i had an electrical wiring class at my local tech high school (same place i took my welding class) and the licensed master electrician who ran the class was very good.   When my house was built i knew nothing about how any of that was done, but have since had to replace many switches (and surprisingly, no receptacles).   Especially on my 3 and 4 way switches i go for at least the industrial grade since i don't appreciate having to fluff around with that stuff.   The ones i have replaced have held up very well.   I 2nd, 3rd, and 4th about not using stab-ins. 

Late to this, but there are some outlets that you don't wrap wire around the screw but slide it in and then screw down the plate to tighten.

 

Good outlets only cost a fraction more than cheap ones, I've found.