On your doors you can drill the center of joint and glue in a dowel. Might use a contrasting color dowel.

32 minutes ago, Gerald said:

On your doors you can drill the center of joint and glue in a dowel. Might use a contrasting color dowel.

Good idea, and I have more doors to make for other cabinets so I may try that method.  

 

Kinda like this fix, had two wicked knots in a otherwise good piece of plywood.  So I drilled them through and installed mahogany plugs.

 

11 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Good idea, and I have more doors to make for other cabinets so I may try that method.  

 

Kinda like this fix, had two wicked knots in a otherwise good piece of plywood.  So I drilled them through and installed mahogany plugs.

 

Kinda but just 1/2 inch or less. This idea started from pinned joints when the glues were not that great but this also to reinforce the joint. Also there is a method in M&T joints where the hole in one piece is slightly offset from the hole in the other and driving in the pin draws the joint together. This would also work on your double bridle joint. I think that is called a pinned mortise and tenon joint.

Tonight I had enough done to dry fit the cabinet to the wall.  As with any plan I expected something to come up that required taking this down and making an adjustment.  Negative Red Rider, all fit correctly so I put the screws in and called it good.  Still have the mirror on one door and a piece of clear lexan on the other to install.  The door for the towel holder should be ready in few days.  Took 3 glue ups to get it the way my mind saw it.  

 

 

Now the towel holder is held in place by gravity using what I call a French cleat.  Anyone know what this is really called?  Either way I did this so I can pull it forward just enough to clear the soap dispenser and not have it fall.  It works, so all is good.  Once the door is on the slit will allow the paper to come through leaving the rest protected as best I can from water.  Huge upgrade from previous method.

 

 

Not quite done yet but at least this cabinet is up and out of the way.  The little stuff as always eats time but at least no much space.  Coated the door with poly this evening and called it a good 1 1/2 hours work.

 

 

French cleat is the word but you have set it up as a double making it a large dovetail. A regular French Cleat will have a strip on cabinet and one on wall. The strip is as you have done with opposing angles and is used by many for cabinets . It is also good in the shop where you might move cabinets around at a later date.

29 minutes ago, Gerald said:

making it a large dovetail.

Hey @steven newman will be happy, a dovetail. 

 

Now I might have gotten extra bonus points if I had done it by hand.  Sorry people, cut a strip at 45 on the TS and sliced it down as needed.

12 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Hey @steven newman will be happy, a dovetail. 

 

Now I might have gotten extra bonus points if I had done it by hand.  Sorry people, cut a strip at 45 on the TS and sliced it down as needed.

That is usually the way it is done so the angles match.

Use of the cleats is pure genius. I've seen similar for stemmed wine glasses but, nothing like your use. 

All the strings came together today, and this is a completed project.  Left door got a mirror the right one pictures.  Why?  When I am at the sink my back is to the door, don't like that.  So the mirror allows me to see the doorway behind me.  The old cabinet had both doors with a mirror, after years of use why do I need to clean both?  Only the left one allows the rear sight I require.

 

The towel holder is about as enclosed as I can make short of a hermetically sealed container.   Probably overkill but hey, why not.  Two magnets hold the door closed.  My test for if they were strong enough was to slap the box hard.  It stayed closed, test complete, works good.

 

 

 

Nice addition to the shop

Very nicea as Lawrence Welk would say.  

That looks too good to be in the shop!!

Great Job!!

That little box is quite unique. Good job