I bought an Industrial Radial Arm Saw. Do I pull it toward me to cut wood or do I push it? It seems that if I pull it, it could ride up on top of the board. I don't want to be a casualty because of ignorance! If the blade is turning clockwise when looking at it from the left side, it seems I should push it into the wood. Help!

Wait for the saw to spin up to speed then slowly pull through the cut.  Here is a video I found that you might find helpful.  Not everyone likes these or uses them.  Like any other tool it is personal preference, or space that dictates what gets used.

 

 

It can't pull up onto the board. To do so it would have to lift the arm/carriage up, and they are pretty well locked in place. But you do pull the saw through the cut, and  firm grip on the handle to control the "self Feeding" is very important. To minimize that effect, and get a smoother cut, you need a blade with a very low hook angle, I use one with a -5˚ degree hook (Freud LU 91). This blade doesn't rip cut worth a hoot, but I never rip on an RAS anyway. High hook angle blades are just not that easy to manage on an RAS, but if you ever feel you want to rip still try to stay with a low angle blade, never more than 10˚...and when you see how scary ripping is on an RAS; remember : I told you so!

The radial arm saw can pull itself up onto the work piece.

 

This more commonly happens when you have the incorrect degree on the saw blade. The piece isn't firm against the fence or cutting a thick piece too fast...

 

Remember the higher the horse power the more agressive the lockup and the yore scarier the result...

 

Turret saws hhave an advantage over non turret saws as well...

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by BillyJack

The saw I use...

 

A Delta 10" non-turret radial arm saw...Not as accurate  nor as safe...

 

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by BillyJack

With all due respect Jack, the saw blade will jam into the wood stalling the motor before it pulls itself onto the top of the board.  The Delta Turret arm was on my list for a long time before I gave up looking (found plenty of 9" saws, but none of the larger ones) before i picked up a 10" Dewalt cast iron arm mocel.

If you look at te adjustments on the Dela turret tables youll notice they are spread out and there are air pockets . Those air pokers are cushions for a saw blade to rise or climb the work piece...it won't climb over but wil climb up till the blade stops. The more horse power the further the climb...

 

When I see people looking fo those old lumber yard saws with such deep cuts I just shake my head...

 

I think another term for this is the blade "walked"  across the board..

Edited November 13, 20196 yr by BillyJack

Mines a combination of parts from a 1950's Delta 900, Super 900, and 1960's Super 990.

11 minutes ago, Larry Buskirk said:

Mines a combination of parts from a 1950's Delta 900, Super 900, and 1960's Super 990.

ah the mysterious FrankenDelta.

There were a couple versions of the Delta 12" RAS.  One has a key lock and one didn't.  Mine has the key lock with the key...

2 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

ah the mysterious FrankenDelta.

Yes! 

I had a Craftsman once. As usual, just as I was about to cut something, SWMO would poke her head in to ask a question.  It never failed.  One day as I was about to rip a small board, she did that and I put down my stock on the wrong side of the blade.  About 10 feet later, she ran away.  I never used the saw after that but sold it.  Now, no one is allowed around when I start any of my saws. 

I've been looking for the anti kickback for this saw for years. Find one cheap hollar at me...

 

Edited November 14, 20196 yr by BillyJack

47 minutes ago, BillyJack said:

I've been looking for the anti kickback for this saw for years.

Does your saw require the square shaft, or round with a flat anti-kickback pawl?

 

I'm not sure I'd have to go out and look at it. I traded a 10" Delta for the 12" Delta and the 12" was bought new but I bet the accessories are gone now at the shop.

I have used a Sears radial saw for over 50 years----use mine for 90 degrees only. For no harm procedure  the following are my personal rules-----always a sharp blade---slow steady stiff arm pull on saw---no attempt to rip---full 100% attention to what you are doing. Has worked for me. 

It can pull up onto the board if you have the wrong blade in it.

You need a negative rake blade. Getting hard to find anymore.

The rake on a saw blade's teeth affects the tendency of wood to

move during cutting. Rake angle should be different for blades

used on different types of saws. Radial arm saws (or generally

any saw where you move the saw blade into the wood) should

always have 0 or slightly negative rake angle

Negative rake blades are still readily available.  Same blade should be used on the chops saws especially the sliders.

Sliders cut in reverse...