Gluing primers

[kmealy]

Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors

 

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y

[FlGatorwood]

I noticed that is was sponsored by Titebond.  That's the glue I use in all my projects.  I have used it for the past 15 years.  I tried many years ago to break a joint, but could not.  The wood around it will break, but I never got the glue to give.  

 

Thanks, Keith.  Great information.  

[Gunny]

Always good to have a refresher course.  My memory is great, the recall button, well I have issues sometimes.

[lew]

Thanks!

[Fred Wilson]

Keith

Thanks for the link.  Enjoyed.

 

Yes, I have used Titebond for years myself.  I recently bought Gorilla's wood glue to try out. So far, so good.  Haven't done a "side-by-side" comparison however.  Have any of you tried Gorrila's wood glue?????  Would be interested in finding out YOUR thoughts.

[kmealy]

45 minutes ago, Fred Wilson said:

Keith

Thanks for the link.  Enjoyed.

 

Yes, I have used Titebond for years myself.  I recently bought Gorilla's wood glue to try out. So far, so good.  Haven't done a "side-by-side" comparison however.  Have any of you tried Gorrila's wood glue?????  Would be interested in finding out YOUR thoughts.

Yeah, I tried their non-poly glue (I HATE their polyurethane glue) a few years ago.  It was fine, but like all type-2 (water resistant) PVA glues it does not come out of clothing if left to cure.   I have a spot on the shirt I'm wearing right now to remind me of it.  I only use Titebond III when I have to because of exposure.  Original for most everything else.

Per Titebond's glue guide, liquid hide glue, Original Titebond, Titebond II and Titebond III all have about 10% of each other in standardized strength tests.  And all are stronger than the surrounding wood when well done.   That says to me that technique is more important than glue choice for strength, so pick the other attributes you want (water resistance or not, assembly time, reversibility, etc.)     In a FWW test a number of years ago, Gorilla Glue Polyurethane was the only one one that failed with slightly loose-fitting tenons.    And it foams up like crazy and will blow a closed joint apart (like a mortise and tenon, dowel joints, etc.)  Did I tell you I hate poly glue?

[Gunny]

54 minutes ago, kmealy said:

Did I tell you I hate poly glue?

Shelf life on it sucks as well.  Open it , use it, cap it.  Next day, buy some more.

[FlGatorwood]

Keith, I get the idea that any poly glue doesn't work for you.  Is that a correct assumption?  

[Fred Wilson]

Keith - thanks for the info - HATE that poly stuff as well.

[Kevin Beitz]

I tried the Gorrila's wood glue. It's ok if you don't let the bottle sit on the shelf 

very long. It hardens up real fast. Titebond's glue is what I like and use. 

I worked in a textile factory where they used 55 gal. of starch. I noticed one

day that it smelled just like Elmers glue. So I took two 12" chunks of 2x4 and

glued them together... Yep it's the same thing. There was no way I could break

them apart.

[Gene Howe]

Glues and starch must be close relatives. After a few days of glue intensive jobs, my jeans could stand alone.

[hatuffej]

On 9/4/2019 at 5:49 PM, kmealy said:

  I only use Titebond III when I have to because of exposure.  Original for most everything else.
 

Hello kmealy

I don't understand your meaning. Please clarity, OK?  I Have used TBIII for many years with no problems, and even age (1 year old) doesn't seem to be a problem. 

thanks 

hat

[kmealy]

I use TBIII for occasional outdoor projects.   Original is my go-to glue.  The only problem I have with III is that if you get it on clothes, it won't wash out.  And it's a bit more expensive, but that's a nit relative to time and materials in a project.   Besides being moisture resistant, III has a slightly longer open time and lower limit application temperature (by 3  degrees, but I have a heated basement shop).   III is 10% stronger than original, but all three levels have bonds stronger than the wood, so that's not an issue for me.   Good prep and application is more important than which glue you use.

 

I don't have a problem no matter which version you choose and use.  We can still be friends.

 

http://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three

Edited October 7, 2019 by kmealy

[lew]

TiteBond II for almost everything. TiteBondIII for those gluey is that take a little longer and when glueing walnut. 

[Gunny]

I only use the titebond III for exterior projects. Works well and never had an issue. 

 

Titebond II for everything else. Tried a few others over the years. Nothing to change my choice though.

[Adam Welker]

I’ve found, at least for outdoor projects, that epoxy is the way to go. I used Titebond 3 for a couple years when I first started out. In my experience, the “creep” is very noticeable with 3 but, more importantly, I’ve had 3 fail on me on outdoor furniture. System West makes a great product line as far as epoxy goes. 

For many years I used original Titebond in my shop as my go to glue. However, when liquid hide glue became more readily available (Titebond hide glue, Patrick’s Old Brown Glue), I switched to it for the majority of my gluing. The simple fact that hide glue is reversible is what changed my mind. I do still use OG Titebond for panel glue ups but any type of joint gets hide glue. 

[FlGatorwood]

Like Gunny, I use on TB ll and TB lll.  I have some that is almost 2 years old.  To thin it, use a dropper and put in sufficient white vinegar until it thins.  I have never had it fail me on any projects, but all my projects are interior.  

[Gene Howe]

TB II has never gone bad on me. If it freezes, it gets lumpy but, a good shake or stir dissolves the lumps. Unlike me, age doesn't seem to affect it. But, a gallon only lasts me about 6 months. I keep one in reserve and it seems to last over a year, unopened. 

It's pretty arid here. I don't know if that makes a difference in it's longevity or, not.

 

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

I've found glue creep to be a problem with all the PVA glues, so much so I won't use them on tabletops. I use urea formaldhyde (slow-setting-plastic-resin-glue, as David Marks would say on his show) on all table tops now, but still use TB2 on pretty much everything else.

[Gene Howe]

I sprinkle a little table salt in the applied glue to stop those creeps in their tracks.