Working on a current project (much interrupted by other work).  Finally got the stain on and despite a sample board from a previous can, it came out way too red for my objective.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, there are ways to adjust the color in flight.  Or as I say, use the stain to get the the right church and glazes and toners to get to the right pew.   Maybe in this case, it was the church across the street.

 

Using some color theory, the complement of red, and what neutralizes it, is green.   In finishing terms the green used is Raw Umber.  I ran some samples.  And I added a couple of other of my commonly-used color glazes.  I mix up my own glazes from my UTC (universal tinting colors -- the same as on the rotary where you get your paint color blended from a base).   But you can buy pre-mixed glazes, custom mixed glazes from glaze base, or even gel stains (though you are unlikely to find a gel stain called VanDyke, Warm Brown, or Raw Umber)

 

Shop-blended ones:
 

 

 

Store-bought ones

 

 

I liked the VanDyke the best, and so did the customer (daughter).  So off to adjust the color from reddish to more of the brown we're trying to get


 

 

Need to let the glaze dry for a day (or whenever I can get back to it) and top coat.

 

(to be continued)

Some notes:

 

Why I used a glaze instead of a toner (finish with color in it)
1. Glazes are ultimately manipulative.  I can wipe off a little more of a little less.   They have long open times so I can play with it, even wipe 90%+ off if I want.   I can add two glazes on top of each other, while still wet or while dry.  Or I can add one glaze, put on a coat of finish to seal it, and if it still needs more work add the same or different color in another round.

2. Toners need to be sprayed, IMO and the little cubby-holes in these units were difficult to get a spray gun in and the cabinet with doors has an unstained interior to make it lighter.

3. I am using a water-borne finish on this (Enduro-Var) so need compatible (water-based) glazes, that are difficult, if not impossible, to find.  So I mix my own.

4.  Toners tend to even out the color, glazes, on oak, tend to accentuate (highlight) the difference between grain pores and flat areas.

 

 

More reading:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/friends-finisher-glazes-toners-wax/

 

I first got introduced to glazes when I worked with a local author (though in a very minor way) when she wrote a book for F+W Publishing.  She did amazing stuff with glazes.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on finishing, I am learning so much!

Interesting approach.  One I am sure many of use can take notes from because it has happened, or will happen to us.  Murphy is like that.

Again, due to delays and crowded finish room, finally got the glaze dried and last coat or two of finish on to seal it in.   Got it delivered to northern Ohio yesterday and got it installed.   Customer (daughter is happy).   They need to trim the shims that we found were necessary on the tile floor (why didn't I think of that?).  I'll probably also make some toe strip and take back on next visit.   Bottom cubbies below the seat will get fabric baskets to hold shoes or whatever.  I wanted to get this done because I'm having in-patient surgery Monday.   Depending on how recovery goes, I'll either be here a lot or a little.

The cabinet on the left is for parents' files, bills, mail, etc, and the shelves above for Legos, crayons, other kid toys to work at the kitchen table.

I think the white haze on the bottom is just some dust that needs to be wiped out.

BTW, other than pocket holes on the hook rails (because they were added after the carcase was together) and some glue blocks below the seats, all joints are biscuit joints.

 

 

Edited April 25, 20196 yr by kmealy

Very, very nice. Beautiful stain and finish. And, thanks for all the info.

2 hours ago, kmealy said:

I'm having in-patient surgery Monday

hope you come out of it ok.   let us know. 

That is one beautiful clean job Keith. I bet the white haze is dust, I saw that and thought at first overspray, but not Keith, he would never do that!

Beautiful! I’ll bet it wasn’t easy to transport even broken down. 

42 minutes ago, lew said:

Beautiful! I’ll bet it wasn’t easy to transport even broken down. 

 

I think there was about 1/2" of headspace, on the passenger side only.   I think it took us five different approaches to get that last piece in.  Rain was expected, so the utility trailer wouldn't work.   U-Haul was the back up plan.  We had to send in my 9 year old grandson to prop up the front on piece behind the driver so it would drop below the window opening.  

 

Now, that most exquisite packing job required some skills. Almost rivaling those employed in the construction and finishing of the piece. I said ALMOST. You are indeed a man of many talents. I'll bet you heaved a sigh of relief when it all made it into its final place in the house. 

It was a real problem getting the piece finished, mostly because of all the insets and that it was very difficult to get light (and spray gun) into areas so I could see what I was doing.  Finally broke down and just single-threaded the pieces through the finish room.  That really slowed down the progress.

 

The other challenge was getting it installed.   My plan was to put up the left piece, level and secure to the wall, then move right one piece at a time.  The floor did not cooperate with that.  So we put all three pieces down on their backs, aligned and secured together then, with the help of a neighbor, put up the whole thing, shimmed, and attached to the anti-tip-over 

 

I already have inquiries, "Would he make one for me."   No way.   This monster was challenge.

 

My head was hurting the one day I:

• Bored 128 1/4" shelf pin holes 32 mm apart
• Drilled 35mm euro-hinge holes so they'd miss the drawer glides on the bottom and evenly spaced on the top doors.  21mm from the edge.
• Attached the hinges, one side with 5/8" Phillips head and the other side with 1" #2 Robertson (probably would have had Pozi-drive if the hinges had come with screws)
• Attached the drawer glides with 3/8" Phillips on one side and 3/4" Phillips on the other.  Making sure the drawers were level and  not hitting each other, face frame, or doors.

Edited April 26, 20196 yr by kmealy

Often, with a job like that one, once is more than plenty. But, it sure is a nice piece of work.