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Middle of February and it was 70° today in South Central PA! Our Patriot Turners- @Thad posted an image of a garden tool he turned. These are really handy for anyone planting both garden veggies and flower bulbs- Check out the comments at Thad's post- Last week, @RustyFN told us about the turned boxes he had made. Check out more about the one he entered into his club's contest and the awards presented- Also, a great big thanks to Rusty for starting a great new thread called "What's On Your Lathe"! Hope we can keep this going!! Our turners are already starting to post their stuff- @HandyDan used some of the Easy Wood Tools carbide cutters to top off a couple of turning tools he made. Dan's post describes the construction and why he chose round bar stock @jthornton continue work on his dizzy bowl. He has posted lots of progress shots along with explanations of what he is doing. This is going to be an awesome bowl! What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links and more information- For The Newbies- Richard Raffan continues with his video series to help the new turner and us old turners that need some reminders Expand Your Horizons- Looking for something different to turn? Check out the latest from Mike Peace- Having just the right device to hold a turning makes life a lot simpler. Look what Alan Stratton has created- New Turning Items- Several things on hollowing. Two from Trent Bosch Some more from the Woodturning Tool Store on the Woodcut Tools Pro Forme Flexi Just got word today that Easy Wood Tools is about to release a new product! Hopefully @Jordan Martindale will keep us in the loop! Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- and from Ron Brown- If You Never Try, You Will Never Know Have you been turning for 5, 10, 20 years, or longer? You are just beginning to understand the fascinating craft of woodturning. This might make more sense if I used the analogy of someone who had one year’s experience twenty times. Think of it like this, a baker who only makes one kind of bread over and over might be pretty good at making that one kind of bread but most folks wouldn’t consider him much of a baker. While someone who makes several different kinds of delicious bread, bagels, cakes, pies, and muffins would be considered a thoroughly accomplished baker. I’m not suggesting you give up making what you love, only that you add other types of projects into the mix. That is how you keep our craft alive, interesting, and growing. Or, just consider adding embellishments this time such as pyrography, carving, texturing, or painting. Besides, the skills you learn by turning something different often carry over and make you even better at turning what you love. I’ve met scores of folks who make mostly bowls who ventured out with spinning tops, bottle stoppers, pepper mills, pens, and hollow forms and discovered a completely new passion. I would like to suggest you try a few different kinds of projects this year. You might just be surprised at what you learn. If you are mainly a bowl-turner, try some spindle projects. If you are mainly a spindle turner, try some plates, platters, bowls, and hollow forms. I can tell you from experience that it takes making more than a few to understand your new project. I’ve made somewhere over 10,000 spinning tops and it took a few hundred before I started to “Get It.” Fancy delicate finials were the same way. I’ve made hundreds for Christmas ornaments, turned lidded boxes, and lidded hollow forms. Looking back at the first ones, they now seem clunky and disproportionate but they were fun and educational, well worth my time and effort. Besides, having an arsenal of quick easy projects that you are good at is a great way to demonstrate turning to the public, or to introduce someone new to woodturning as a fascinating hobby or side business for a little extra income. Always be on the lookout to show someone how fun a wood lathe can be. Keep it simple and they will understand. Remember that wherever you go, there you are. Safe turning
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From the album: Bowls and Platters
Pecan platter 14 inch. Eagle burned from stick n burn pattern, Colored with pencil. Dots colored with metallic gourd ink.© Gerald Lawrence
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Had this vase in shop for a while. Made from root of black walnut off city property. Had a rock on bottom when turning and messed up a hollowing bit. During drying process it cracked top to bottom. Today hot started opening it up to be laced. hot the eyes drilled and chamfered. Then time to take the tenon off. Worked somewhat but not complete using a cone shaped jamb chuck. started coloring the inside with black Gesso on lower inside and red acrylic on upper inside. More tomorrow I hope.
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Since I started burning I gave gotten a little carried away with adding to some small turnings. For these I used Metallic Inks at bottom and the color on the Pyrography is colored pencils.
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From the album: Bowls and Platters
Bradford Pear dyed with multiple layers. Natural edge on two sides- 4 comments
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How does black walnut change its color. some of the wood will be back walnut as we know it dark, and then some of it is as white as pine? Preston
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I am in the process of making something out of Purple Heart. 2 sides are untouched (dark) and the other are fresh cut.(light) The untouched sides are old & have oxidized. Is there some little woodworker secret that will make the newly cut darken and match the old? (just hoping)
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Working on a current project (much interrupted by other work). Finally got the stain on and despite a sample board from a previous can, it came out way too red for my objective. Well, there are ways to adjust the color in flight. Or as I say, use the stain to get the the right church and glazes and toners to get to the right pew. Maybe in this case, it was the church across the street. Using some color theory, the complement of red, and what neutralizes it, is green. In finishing terms the green used is Raw Umber. I ran some samples. And I added a couple of other of my commonly-used color glazes. I mix up my own glazes from my UTC (universal tinting colors -- the same as on the rotary where you get your paint color blended from a base). But you can buy pre-mixed glazes, custom mixed glazes from glaze base, or even gel stains (though you are unlikely to find a gel stain called VanDyke, Warm Brown, or Raw Umber) Shop-blended ones: Store-bought ones I liked the VanDyke the best, and so did the customer (daughter). So off to adjust the color from reddish to more of the brown we're trying to get Need to let the glaze dry for a day (or whenever I can get back to it) and top coat. (to be continued) Some notes: Why I used a glaze instead of a toner (finish with color in it) 1. Glazes are ultimately manipulative. I can wipe off a little more of a little less. They have long open times so I can play with it, even wipe 90%+ off if I want. I can add two glazes on top of each other, while still wet or while dry. Or I can add one glaze, put on a coat of finish to seal it, and if it still needs more work add the same or different color in another round. 2. Toners need to be sprayed, IMO and the little cubby-holes in these units were difficult to get a spray gun in and the cabinet with doors has an unstained interior to make it lighter. 3. I am using a water-borne finish on this (Enduro-Var) so need compatible (water-based) glazes, that are difficult, if not impossible, to find. So I mix my own. 4. Toners tend to even out the color, glazes, on oak, tend to accentuate (highlight) the difference between grain pores and flat areas. More reading: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/friends-finisher-glazes-toners-wax/ I first got introduced to glazes when I worked with a local author (though in a very minor way) when she wrote a book for F+W Publishing. She did amazing stuff with glazes.
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Yes I like to start with the hardest parts to color first... Then I can stop holding my breath till the next day.. but until I put the clear on I am still in the dark as to what these things will end up looking like black birds or grackles???
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I have not tried this CA glue but I will. It can do a lot of things that other glues "can not". I could be wrong about that. Some of it you can color, and there is one that will not cure until you spray it with an accelerator, you can fill dings with it. It's called Glue Boost, and there was an article in the Wood Workers Journal this October. Here is a link that will give you more information than I ever could. https://gluboost.com/
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Got my new stuff put away and decided to go in a different direction on a piece I had started. This pecan bowl looked like a good candidate for a colored rim. First layer with black and sand off. Second layer is red and sand. Next is yellow sand and then touch up with red. Now for lacquer. Using Chestnut Stains on this one. More May take a day or two since the winter gets here tomorrow.
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Not sure what I want to do for a background. I normally use black 99.9% of the time but think this might look better with some color behind it. What do you all think?
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I've been playing in the colored ply again. I kinda like how this ONE turned out. It looks different from all sides
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Three things that affect the finished color of a project 1. The wood. You would not expect the same resulting color if you applied the same products to, say, pine, poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, or white oak. Each wood will impart not only its own natural color, but the grain and porosity of the wood can affect how it absorbs the upper layers. I have applied exactly the same stain to ash and red oak, that look very similar in the rough (ring porous woods) and on red oak it comes out a light brown and on ash, a light yellow. 2. The colorant. The dyes and/or pigments in a stain, glaze or toner will obviously impact the resulting color. And it may interact with the underlying wood. For example, if you add a raw umber color, normally a darkish green to a wood like cherry with a lot of natural red, they will neutralize each other and come up with more of a brown result. If you put raw umber on maple, you are going to see more of that greenish color. 3. The finish. All finishes can add (or omit) color. Waterborne finishes and lacquers called "water-white" add virtually no color. These are great if you don't want added color, for example over a pickled finish. On the other hand, they can look like the finish is washed out. Shellac comes in different grades from super blond, blonde, lemon, orange and garnet. Sometimes they are called light amber, amber, natural, or whatever just to confuse us. Varnishes (oil-based) generally have an amber color. Exactly what depends on the mix of which oil and which resin. Soy-alkyd, linseed-urethane, or tung-phenolic are the common combinations and vary from light to dark amber, respectively. So that is why when you are doing test boards on scrap, you need to use the same wood, the same colorant, and the same finish, all the way to completion. Also, the color you get on day one may not the color 10 years down the road. Woods tend to change color - cherry darkens, walnut lightens, and maple ambers. Dyes and pigments tend to fade in light, dyes usually more so. And if you have a colorant with two or more ingredients, one of them might change faster than the others. So an amber might fade to an orange. On one hand you have the woods going one way and perhaps the colorants going the other, each at their own rate. -
Someone sent me this article about the woods changing colors over time. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/ for some reason it has to be copy/paste to see. Herb
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For anyone wondering what color I used on the chess pieces
Smallpatch posted a topic in Wood Turners
I used a glaze made by Star Chemical Co. Raw Sienna thinned down turned out to be real close.. This was what I thought I was best at of all the wood working and related chores associated with wood....matching shades of old furniture people brought in to match...
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Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
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Tried something different a couple of weeks ago and am wondering if anyone else is doing it. First a picture of the project. An easy eagle (Pattern by Gayle Mortison). Cut the project in Poplar and made the uneven corners. Before applying a finish, I go out some trusty water based paint and tinned the fool out of it to make a wash. Did the white and after that dried put some yellow on the beak. Jut to make the eye blacker, put a touch of black inside (from the back side). Waited for the whole thing to dry and then finished with two coats of satin lacquer. Have any of you guys tried this technique? Show us some pictures. If you haven't, would you be willing to try?
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