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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Found 19 results

  1. From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Bradford Pear dyed with multiple layers. Natural edge on two sides
  2. So theres something i want to make. Best way to make a through and through inlay (complex and nit alot to work with as far as small details for a snug fit. Also is there blue stain? Im broke so if there is and anyone knows how can i make it? A stain to compliment this in relation to ol' glory. TYIA
  3. How does black walnut change its color. some of the wood will be back walnut as we know it dark, and then some of it is as white as pine? Preston
  4. I am interested in finding out how to infuse color into wood pieces, maybe 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches thick. Looking for ideas or references to accomplish this. Do I soak the pieces in aniline dye? If so, which is more effective in getting the color as deep into the wood as possible, alcohol or water? Should I use a pressure pot system, or maybe some kind of vacuum system? This won't be natural wood tones, but rather bright blues, reds, greens, etc. Any ideas will be appreciated.
  5. I am in the process of making something out of Purple Heart. 2 sides are untouched (dark) and the other are fresh cut.(light) The untouched sides are old & have oxidized. Is there some little woodworker secret that will make the newly cut darken and match the old? (just hoping)
  6. Working on a current project (much interrupted by other work). Finally got the stain on and despite a sample board from a previous can, it came out way too red for my objective. Well, there are ways to adjust the color in flight. Or as I say, use the stain to get the the right church and glazes and toners to get to the right pew. Maybe in this case, it was the church across the street. Using some color theory, the complement of red, and what neutralizes it, is green. In finishing terms the green used is Raw Umber. I ran some samples. And I added a couple of other of my commonly-used color glazes. I mix up my own glazes from my UTC (universal tinting colors -- the same as on the rotary where you get your paint color blended from a base). But you can buy pre-mixed glazes, custom mixed glazes from glaze base, or even gel stains (though you are unlikely to find a gel stain called VanDyke, Warm Brown, or Raw Umber) Shop-blended ones: Store-bought ones I liked the VanDyke the best, and so did the customer (daughter). So off to adjust the color from reddish to more of the brown we're trying to get Need to let the glaze dry for a day (or whenever I can get back to it) and top coat. (to be continued) Some notes: Why I used a glaze instead of a toner (finish with color in it) 1. Glazes are ultimately manipulative. I can wipe off a little more of a little less. They have long open times so I can play with it, even wipe 90%+ off if I want. I can add two glazes on top of each other, while still wet or while dry. Or I can add one glaze, put on a coat of finish to seal it, and if it still needs more work add the same or different color in another round. 2. Toners need to be sprayed, IMO and the little cubby-holes in these units were difficult to get a spray gun in and the cabinet with doors has an unstained interior to make it lighter. 3. I am using a water-borne finish on this (Enduro-Var) so need compatible (water-based) glazes, that are difficult, if not impossible, to find. So I mix my own. 4. Toners tend to even out the color, glazes, on oak, tend to accentuate (highlight) the difference between grain pores and flat areas. More reading: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/friends-finisher-glazes-toners-wax/ I first got introduced to glazes when I worked with a local author (though in a very minor way) when she wrote a book for F+W Publishing. She did amazing stuff with glazes.
  7. Yes I like to start with the hardest parts to color first... Then I can stop holding my breath till the next day.. but until I put the clear on I am still in the dark as to what these things will end up looking like black birds or grackles???
  8. I got around to making a couple more Christmas ornaments. I am no longer satisfied to make simple ones. These feature colored ply and some assorted wood pieces from my "saver" scrap box. I just have a hard time tossing beautiful scraps
  9. I have not tried this CA glue but I will. It can do a lot of things that other glues "can not". I could be wrong about that. Some of it you can color, and there is one that will not cure until you spray it with an accelerator, you can fill dings with it. It's called Glue Boost, and there was an article in the Wood Workers Journal this October. Here is a link that will give you more information than I ever could. https://gluboost.com/
  10. Got my new stuff put away and decided to go in a different direction on a piece I had started. This pecan bowl looked like a good candidate for a colored rim. First layer with black and sand off. Second layer is red and sand. Next is yellow sand and then touch up with red. Now for lacquer. Using Chestnut Stains on this one. More May take a day or two since the winter gets here tomorrow.
  11. Not sure what I want to do for a background. I normally use black 99.9% of the time but think this might look better with some color behind it. What do you all think?
  12. I've been playing in the colored ply again. I kinda like how this ONE turned out. It looks different from all sides
  13. skiler


    Need help identifying this wood and finish. It looks like pine to me but could be really knotty cherry. The finish almost looks orange. I am trying to build something to match it and not sure how to go about it. Any help greatly appreciated.
  14. Three things that affect the finished color of a project 1. The wood. You would not expect the same resulting color if you applied the same products to, say, pine, poplar, walnut, maple, cherry, or white oak. Each wood will impart not only its own natural color, but the grain and porosity of the wood can affect how it absorbs the upper layers. I have applied exactly the same stain to ash and red oak, that look very similar in the rough (ring porous woods) and on red oak it comes out a light brown and on ash, a light yellow. 2. The colorant. The dyes and/or pigments in a stain, glaze or toner will obviously impact the resulting color. And it may interact with the underlying wood. For example, if you add a raw umber color, normally a darkish green to a wood like cherry with a lot of natural red, they will neutralize each other and come up with more of a brown result. If you put raw umber on maple, you are going to see more of that greenish color. 3. The finish. All finishes can add (or omit) color. Waterborne finishes and lacquers called "water-white" add virtually no color. These are great if you don't want added color, for example over a pickled finish. On the other hand, they can look like the finish is washed out. Shellac comes in different grades from super blond, blonde, lemon, orange and garnet. Sometimes they are called light amber, amber, natural, or whatever just to confuse us. Varnishes (oil-based) generally have an amber color. Exactly what depends on the mix of which oil and which resin. Soy-alkyd, linseed-urethane, or tung-phenolic are the common combinations and vary from light to dark amber, respectively. So that is why when you are doing test boards on scrap, you need to use the same wood, the same colorant, and the same finish, all the way to completion. Also, the color you get on day one may not the color 10 years down the road. Woods tend to change color - cherry darkens, walnut lightens, and maple ambers. Dyes and pigments tend to fade in light, dyes usually more so. And if you have a colorant with two or more ingredients, one of them might change faster than the others. So an amber might fade to an orange. On one hand you have the woods going one way and perhaps the colorants going the other, each at their own rate.
  15. Dadio

    Colored Woods

    Someone sent me this article about the woods changing colors over time. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/ for some reason it has to be copy/paste to see. Herb
  16. I used a glaze made by Star Chemical Co. Raw Sienna thinned down turned out to be real close.. This was what I thought I was best at of all the wood working and related chores associated with wood....matching shades of old furniture people brought in to match...
  17. Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  18. Would it be possible to change the color of the spell check underline, of incorrect spellings, to something a little more noticeable? Currently, on my monitor, it is a very pale green. A brighter color would be easier to notice.
  19. Tried something different a couple of weeks ago and am wondering if anyone else is doing it. First a picture of the project. An easy eagle (Pattern by Gayle Mortison). Cut the project in Poplar and made the uneven corners. Before applying a finish, I go out some trusty water based paint and tinned the fool out of it to make a wash. Did the white and after that dried put some yellow on the beak. Jut to make the eye blacker, put a touch of black inside (from the back side). Waited for the whole thing to dry and then finished with two coats of satin lacquer. Have any of you guys tried this technique? Show us some pictures. If you haven't, would you be willing to try?
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