Zero Clearance Insert For Crosscut Sled

[JIMMIEM]

I'm making a crosscut sled for my table saw.  I'm using 3/4" BB plywood.  I've seen lots of plans and a few have used zero clearance inserts for the sled and/or the fence.  Do you find this to be a worthwhile feature?   I would route recesses in the sled and fence and use 1/4" hardboard for the inserts. 

[Gene Howe]

It would certainly be an asset. Great idea for the replaceable insert of hard board. My DP table has one and it works great. The only concern for one on the sled would be how to keep it from picking up. Maybe screws outside the cutting area? Let us know what you do.

[schnewj]

I'm a little confused! Why would you need a zero clearance insert for a cross cut sled? Typically, when you cut the sled with the blade it only cuts a slot the width of the blade. If you are talking about the back of the sled and the "pass-through" getting chewed up, then just again, why? The material is being held and just gets cut...worried about chip out on the material...use a backer.

 

What am I missing?

[JIMMIEM]

5 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

It would certainly be an asset. Great idea for the replaceable insert of hard board. My DP table has one and it works great. The only concern for one on the sled would be how to keep it from picking up. Maybe screws outside the cutting area? Let us know what you do.

@Gene Howe

I just finished the DP table (WoodSmith Plan) with the replaceable insert....15 degree angle on the edges hold it in place.   You had provided feedback on my choice of contact cement, brayer, etc.  For the table saw sled most of the plans called for securing the insert(s) with countersunk screws which is the way I would go.  I'll just route recesses for the inserts.  Had I used 1/2" ply for the sled I would have just added 3 pieces of 1/4" hardboard for the top surface.....similar to the DP table.  I'm thinking that 1/4" Hardboard on top of 3/4" ply will be too thick and too heavy.

[JIMMIEM]

10 minutes ago, schnewj said:

I'm a little confused! Why would you need a zero clearance insert for a cross cut sled? Typically, when you cut the sled with the blade it only cuts a slot the width of the blade. If you are talking about the back of the sled and the "pass-through" getting chewed up, then just again, why? The material is being held and just gets cut...worried about chip out on the material...use a backer.

 

What am I missing?

Maybe use a dado set with the sled.  Maybe the same reason for using a zero clearance insert.....thin kerf vs full kerf blades.  I would agree that if the same blade is used every time that the original slot cut would be a zero clearance insert.  

[schnewj]

1 minute ago, JIMMIEM said:

Maybe use a dado set with the sled.  Maybe the same reason for using a zero clearance insert.....thin kerf vs full kerf blades.  I would agree that if the same blade is used every time that the original slot cut would be a zero clearance insert.  

 

Dado blade! It is just as easy to bury the dado blade in an auxiliary fence and just use a miter gauge on the table saw.  Just my 2¢.

[Gene Howe]

7 minutes ago, schnewj said:

 

Dado blade! It is just as easy to bury the dado blade in an auxiliary fence and just use a miter gauge on the table saw.  Just my 2¢.

Quite true for a rabbeting cut. A ZCI would be nice for a cross cut dado, though. Using a miter gauge doesn't prevent tear out like a sled will.

[HandyDan]

I only use the cross cut sled to cut a multiple of pieces.  I just use a good miter gauge for the few dadoes I cut.  It's is not something I do on a regular basis.

[schnewj]

5 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Quite true for a rabbeting cut. A ZCI would be nice for a cross cut dado, though. Using a miter gauge doesn't prevent tear out like a sled will.

 

True.

 

I have a zero clearance plate for my tablesaw. In the case of a tear-out I just use a backer with the miter gauge.

 

I just don't see the need for all of the extra work to install into, and maintain inserts on a sled. Again, just my personal opinion.

[Gene Howe]

31 minutes ago, schnewj said:

 

True.

 

I have a zero clearance plate for my tablesaw. In the case of a tear-out I just use a backer with the miter gauge.

 

I just don't see the need for all of the extra work to install into, and maintain inserts on a sled. Again, just my personal opinion.

Yeah, but some of us are just fiddln' types. 

[JIMMIEM]

Thank you for all the replies and suggestions.  Lots of food for thought.  Reading all the sled build articles.....different techniques for attaching the runners, different runner materials, different fence building techniques, different sled sizes, materials, etc.   

[JIMMIEM]

2 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Yeah, but some of us are just fiddln' types. 

And looking for an excuse to use our woodworking tools and make some sawdust.

[Grandpadave52]

5 hours ago, JIMMIEM said:

Thank you for all the replies and suggestions.  Lots of food for thought.  Reading all the sled build articles.....different techniques for attaching the runners, different runner materials, different fence building techniques, different sled sizes, materials, etc.   

You may have just hit the "jack-pot" for your wishes?

Latest Woodsmith eTip Video

Premium Plans are a little pricey at $12.95 IMO...with some creativity and watching the video, I think you could replicate & customize for your specific needs.

[Dadio]

13 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

You may have just hit the "jack-pot" for your wishes?

Latest Woodsmith eTip Video

Premium Plans are a little pricey at $12.95 IMO...with some creativity and watching the video, I think you could replicate & customize for your specific needs.

Thanks, I like it, That is the best solution I have seen.

Herb

[schnewj]

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

Thanks, I like it, That is the best solution I have seen.

Herb

 

Agreed...much better then an insert. All of the components are easy to replace as a sub-assembly if necessary, also. It provide immediate, infinite adjustibility.

[John Hechel]

9 hours ago, schnewj said:

I'm a little confused! Why would you need a zero clearance insert for a cross cut sled? Typically, when you cut the sled with the blade it only cuts a slot the width of the blade. If you are talking about the back of the sled and the "pass-through" getting chewed up, then just again, why? The material is being held and just gets cut...worried about chip out on the material...use a backer.

 

What am I missing?

the sawdust will wear away the edge of the plywood  it happens faster than we would think

[Gene Howe]

2 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

You may have just hit the "jack-pot" for your wishes?

Latest Woodsmith eTip Video

Premium Plans are a little pricey at $12.95 IMO...with some creativity and watching the video, I think you could replicate & customize for your specific needs.

Ya hit the nail on the head with that, Dave. Thanks.

[JIMMIEM]

2 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

You may have just hit the "jack-pot" for your wishes?

Latest Woodsmith eTip Video

Premium Plans are a little pricey at $12.95 IMO...with some creativity and watching the video, I think you could replicate & customize for your specific needs.

Gee, I thought I hit it when I found plans in a 2013 ShopNotes Magazine issue for the 'Ultimate Crosscut Sled'.....lol.  It used a hardboard insert and dual runners (to eliminate side-to-side movement).  Times they are a changing!  The 'Ultimate' plans are available to purchase for $15.95.     

 

 

[Dadio]

58 minutes ago, JIMMIEM said:

Gee, I thought I hit it when I found plans in a 2013 ShopNotes Magazine issue for the 'Ultimate Crosscut Sled'.....lol.  It used a hardboard insert and dual runners (to eliminate side-to-side movement).  Times they are a changing!  The 'Ultimate' plans are available to purchase for $15.95.     

 

 

Who needs plans ,all a guy needs is the picture, done deal.

Herb

[Grandpadave52]

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Ya hit the nail on the head with that, Dave. Thanks.

Do I get a raise?