I have a Porter Cable cordless drill with a 3/8 keyless chuck and it is about 5 years old. I really like it.  However the keyless chuck has started coming loose and dropping what ever I have chucked in it. Is there anyway to rehab it to its normal gripping power or is a new chuck the only answer?

Gee, Ron. Mine's around 20 years old and, has never failed. Can you take it off and disassemble it?  

Without seeing it Ron ( = literally looking at it hands-on), hard to say. My first approach likely would be fully open the chuck to max, flood it with WD-40, open & close and few times, then thoroughly dry using compressed air. To remove any remaining WD-40 residue, I'd likely spray the inside of the chuck with a non-chlorinated Brake Cleaner, air dry again, then apply a few drops of 3-n-1 oil while cycling the chuck open/close a few times. This has been my typical approach for keyed chucks after cleaning any internal/external rust. YMMV.

24 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Without seeing it Ron ( = literally looking at it hands-on), hard to say. My first approach likely would be fully open the chuck to max, flood it with WD-40, open & close and few times, then thoroughly dry using compressed air. To remove any remaining WD-40 residue, I'd likely spray the inside of the chuck with a non-chlorinated Brake Cleaner, air dry again, then apply a few drops of 3-n-1 oil while cycling the chuck open/close a few times. This has been my typical approach for keyed chucks after cleaning any internal/external rust. YMMV.

 

Thanks Dave, That's the kind of answer I wanted to try. I would have trouble with disassembly, The one I tried to remove a few  years ago, would NOT come apart. I tried every trick in the book. I don't have good strong hands now, so I first wanted to clean and rinse. I thought about submerging the chuck in solvent and turning slowly in both directions with the drill motor and change chuck positions a couple of times. Then do the same turning faster. Then rinse, dry and lube. Sounds like it could work after seeing how you do it. I'll let you know.

 

PS Youtube did not help

Is it a cordless? I have a 14.4 PC just got tired of rebuilding battery so bought a Bosch 18. It has charger and two batteries and if you want it I will ship to you. One battery rebuilt last year and just not making it. Or if you just want the drill for parts can do that

1 hour ago, Ron Altier said:

 

You too Ron, I thought I was the only one. Same drill 12v. and had 2 of them, both did the same thing, not sure how old they are but around 2008 I would say and the lithium batteries are still going strong. If I reverse the drill the bit falls out.  I love that little drill it is small compact and plenty of power. I have larger drills but this is my favorite one. I will just live with it the way it is, not going to abandon it, I like the driver too, but it doesn't have a chuck,hex drive.

Herb

 

CORRECTION: It is 12v. not 9v.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Porter-Cable-PCL120DD-12V-12-Volt-MAX-3-8-Lithium-Ion-Drill-Driver-BareTool/121987781691?epid=1923285452&hash=item1c6709d43b:g:6zUAAOSw3mpXOQTP

Edited March 19, 20197 yr by Dadio

I second Dave's advice.

 

 

Edited March 19, 20197 yr by John Hechel

17 minutes ago, Ron Altier said:

I thought about submerging the chuck in solvent

I'd be a bit hesitant to do that Ron assuming the chuck is "rubber" sleeve coated? Not sure what the solvent might do to the rubber and adhesion to the chuck. Unless the chuck is worn out (doubtful) or something internal has broken (possible??), I suspect there is a piece of debris below the jaws or just a build up of "gunk." WD-40 works well to flood flush.

 

Automotive brake clean typically will not harm most plastics or rubber although it can spot/fade paint in some instances. While much more expensive per spray can, Electric Contact Cleaner will remove the WD-40 residue effectively too. Wally-World typically carries both Brake Cleaner & Electrical Contact Cleaner as do most of the BORG's.

16 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

I'd be a bit hesitant to do that Ron assuming the chuck is "rubber" sleeve coated? Not sure what the solvent might do to the rubber and adhesion to the chuck. Unless the chuck is worn out (doubtful) or something internal has broken (possible??), I suspect there is a piece of debris below the jaws or just a build up of "gunk." WD-40 works well to flood flush.

 

Automotive brake clean typically will not harm most plastics or rubber although it can spot/fade paint in some instances. While much more expensive per spray can, Electric Contact Cleaner will remove the WD-40 residue effectively too. Wally-World typically carries both Brake Cleaner & Electrical Contact Cleaner as do most of the BORG's.

My experience W/WD40 and rubber is that it softens it. I am not going to mess with mine, I will just live with it.

Just saying, Herb

5 hours ago, Ron Altier said:

 I have a Porter Cable cordless drill with a 3/8 keyless chuck

 

 

What model is this?  If I had a parts diagram to look at I can figure out how it is put together.  Maybe...  

19 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

 

 

What model is this?  If I had a parts diagram to look at I can figure out how it is put together.  Maybe...  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Porter-Cable-PCL120DD-12V-12-Volt-MAX-3-8-Lithium-Ion-Drill-Driver-BareTool/121987781691?epid=1923285452&hash=item1c6709d43b:g:6zUAAOSw3mpXOQTP

What model is this?  If I had a parts diagram to look at I can figure out how it is put together.  Maybe...  

 

Thanks to everyone for some great offers and suggestions. I have not tried to loosen it yet. It is a nice Porter Cable and I won't give up on it........just yet. I will try to get the chuck off tomorrow, due to a condition in my hands, I don't have a strong grip, but my son-in-law is strong as a horse. I'll let him do it, if I can't.

 Most of my Lithium power tools are Ryobi. They are good performers and my family gives me gift certificates from Home Depot for Christmas. I don't over use or abuse them and they last a long time. I know that Porter Cable tools are expensive, quality tools and  last a long time. I'll take all of you suggestion in consideration if and when I get it apart. I checked today and a Ryobi replacement, minus battery, (I have 3) is $44

 

THANKS!

 

44 minutes ago, Ron Altier said:

I will try to get the chuck off tomorrow, due to a condition in my hands, I don't have a strong grip, but my son-in-law is strong as a horse.

 

Like most tools of this nature you only have so many parts.  The chuck can be removed by removing the screw in the bottom.  To access open chuck up all the way.  Should be a #3 or #2 Philips screwdriver bit.   This would allow you to work only on the chuck itself without risk of chemicals getting inside the drill.

 

Diagram that shows parts in question.  https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-pcl120ddc2-12v-lithium-cordless-drill-parts-c-129_2127_282785.html

 

New chuck if desired is $16.10  

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

Sorry, Ron. I shoulda read closer. My 20 y.o. PC drill is corded. But, the chuck might be the same.

If you try to take the chuck off the drill, most all screws down in the middle of the chuck will  nave left handed threads.

 First, I want to thank all who gave me great advice on "how to" do this.  The last drill that I replaced a chuck on was an old half inch Craftsman and it was a major task, everything was stuck and it had a phillips screw holding in on.  That is why I said that I didn't think my hands were strong enough to get it off, I can't turn with much strength.  The big surprise was that it was a Torx screw holding it on. EASY does it. I used the tool you see as a 90 degree wrench and it came right off. I cleaned it very thoroughly with carb cleaner spray, several times and lubed it with silicon spray lube. It is working good, however I must first use it on a "real job" to see if it holds properly for the duration of the job.  I didn't tare it apart because there were multiple holes around the perimeter to get the solvent in with force. 

 

  Thanks again.

Try this stuff.  Stick recommended to me and it has worked well.   Glad to see you had success!!!

 

I am glad you solved the problem, and mine too if I ever want to remove the chuck.

Herb

Good to hear you got it working again. 

On 3/20/2019 at 2:22 PM, Ron Altier said:

 First, I want to thank all who gave me great advice on "how to" do this.  The last drill that I replaced a chuck on was an old half inch Craftsman and it was a major task, everything was stuck and it had a phillips screw holding in on.  That is why I said that I didn't think my hands were strong enough to get it off, I can't turn with much strength.  The big surprise was that it was a Torx screw holding it on. EASY does it. I used the tool you see as a 90 degree wrench and it came right off. I cleaned it very thoroughly with carb cleaner spray, several times and lubed it with silicon spray lube. It is working good, however I must first use it on a "real job" to see if it holds properly for the duration of the job.  I didn't tare it apart because there were multiple holes around the perimeter to get the solvent in with force. 

 

  Thanks again.

 

 

Ron if you ever need a battery replacement, I just bought 2 spares from G C Battery @www.GCBattery.com

The SKU# PC-12VP-2L                Battery replacement 12v 2.OAh Li  Battery   PCL 12BLX (new) ..$19.39

 

Herb