54 minutes ago, steven newman said:

thumb groove is for the right hand thumb to sit in.

Yet another blatant discrimination toward us left handed people. 

24 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Yet another blatant discrimination toward us left handed people. 

Just turn it upside-down!

John

1 hour ago, steven newman said:

Thumbhole style is for a two handed grip, while ripping.  Left thumb goes into the hole, rest of the hand goes across the top of the handle...thumb groove is for the right hand thumb to sit in.

Repair it or make new handle?

up to you...

That break looks like you could almost work some glue in there and clamp it together.

1 minute ago, It Was Al B said:

That break looks like you could almost work some glue in there and clamp it together.

I thought so but if you try to push it together you can see the stress on the wood.  Probably would break if I tried, or later on.  I could make a insert but it will never match.  

2 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Yet another blatant discrimination toward us left handed people.

yup...

have they no shame...

at least we're in our right minds...

@Woodbutcherbynight

 

You can certainly re-glue this handle. Try and clean out the junk that has probably accumulated in there, (picks, swabs, etc., NO sandpaper). I have used acetone on several occasions to great affect. Use a good quality two part epoxy after you clean it; clamp appropriately and set it aside to cure. Some judicious sanding (card scrapers are great; especially the small curved ones) on the handle. I, generally, then apply Boiled Linseed Oil, thinned 50/50 with Mineral Spirits. Apply, several coats of the thinned mix (it will soak it up). When I feel that the BLO has really penetrated I switch to full strength. Keep applying until it no longer soaks in. When it stops soaking in, wipe off any excess, let it "dry" for several days. If no more BLO weeps out, you're done. You can seal it with Shellac if you want (I generally do) or just leave it alone and wax it.

 

As for the plate, there are many ways to clean them. I, personally, soak it with WD-40 (one of only a couple of limited uses for this product in my shop) and then uses a razor blade scraper. (DO NOT sand). If an acid etch appears you may be able to resurrect it by applying Birchwood Casey Cold Bluing, once the plate is clean.

 

Apply the bluing and follow the bottle directions. The etches are only microns deep, so, it might be tough, depending on the plate ware, to salvage it. Once the cold blue is in place a light sanding with a high grit on a sanding block will remove the bluing from any high spots. Leaving the etch.

 

If you have a failed repair, then use the original handle as a template. Now is the perfect time to make the handle custom and fit it to your hand, larger, smaller, fatter, etc.

 

Finish the handle as described above and it will outlast you.

 

He are some of the saws that I have. These are my "daily users". They are an eclectic bunch; Distons, Atkins, Warranted Superiors, and a couple I can't ID. All of them refurbs. All with straight plates, refinished handles and etchs preserved when possible. I, also, joint, sharpen and set my own saws. You can see my Diston saw vise in the upper right on the till.

 

Good luck on the project.

 

Edited February 25, 20197 yr by schnewj

@schnewj...Thanks Bill for the tips, suggestions and VOE. Good primer for Handsaws 101. I'll adhere to it for my Atkins find...I've since learned the Pat. Date, Dec 27, 1887 was for the use and redesign of the medallion (badge) bolt. Based on your time frame estimate for the Warranted Saw ~1920's, I suspect the EC Atkins may be early 20th Century also. Since the two saws were together in a bin, I'm guessing they came from the same estate. I'm still hoping I can find a readable etch on the Atkins.

 

http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?id=7397

http://www.datamp.org/patents/search/xrefCompany.php?source=xrefCompany425&start=15&id=425

Edited February 25, 20197 yr by Grandpadave52

12 hours ago, schnewj said:

You can certainly re-glue this handle.

I will follow your advice and do this, but will save the handle and put it in a memory box I am making with some of my Grandfathers tools.  Then make a new handle and clean up the blade and such.  A little side project.

 

These are his old hammers I made new handles for few years back.  Metal shank was stamped 1953.  Made a channel inside the blank then glued up and turned down. The blanks are from another project, just using them here to show what I did.   Oval shaped the handles on the lathe then did the rest by hand to match up the tops.  They have a nice heft and feel, worked at it to get them balanced.  No, they do not get used.  

 

 

42 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

Then make a new handle and clean up the blade and such.  A little side project.

I'll still look at my stash...too cold to dig around today...

 

43 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

These are his old hammers I made new handles for few years back.

...and you did 'em proud...very nice.

I would try to glue it but be aware that some "bolts" do NOT come out easily.   If all of them come out easily, clean and re-glue and refinish as you wish.  It appears that the upper "horn" is also broken off (at least compared to Steven's saws).   Nice job on the hammers. 

11 minutes ago, p_toad said:

I would try to glue it but be aware that some "bolts" do NOT come out easily.

Removed them this evening, thankfully all went well no damage and threads were in good shape.

 

12 minutes ago, p_toad said:

Nice job on the hammers. 

Thanks!!

I would epoxy it with no clamps...