January 31, 20197 yr 22 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said: I've never covered the add-on base plate with tape nor ever had an issue particularly if you use hardboard (Masonite) same here... tape the door.. the scratches are usually the result of trapped sawdust.. Edited January 31, 20197 yr by Stick486
February 1, 20197 yr Author All here is what I did with great success. 1. To the saw attach double sided tap to all surfaces. 2. Cut a piece of 1/4 or 1/8 plywood to the saws plate size. 3. Attach 2 to 1 with and make sure the plywood is flat and the blade guard to pushing the tape loose. My blade guard could not be disabled. 4. Cover the plywood with painters tape completely. 5. Carefully mount the saw in a vice to keep it stable. The lower the plate onto the spinning blade to create the zero clearance insert. (I cut it only to the kurf depth in the next step). 6. Carefully measure the blade inside to the plate outside. Setup up a straight edge parallel to the door bottom but the distance away from the bottom of the desired cut + the blade inside to the plate outside. 7. Set the saw depth to 1/16". 8. Tape off the door Where the cut will be and visually check in on all 4 sides. 9. Cut the kurf in the door on all 4 sides. 10. reposition your straight edge so that it is 1/32" closer to the to door bottom (leaves 1/32 of veneer.) 11. Cut 1/2 the way thru the door. 12. Turn the door over and cut thru the remaining. 13. Sand the veneer flush.
February 1, 20197 yr I usually do what Stick recommends on his first post. A couple of other things that work - make a cut off jig, sort of like a shop built track saw: Make a tiny rabbet on a straight piece of wood (or 1/2" to 3/4" plywood). Glue it, rabbet side down over a thin piece of plywood. Leave enough on the rabbetted side that is bigger than the long distance from your saw's base plate edge to saw blade. When dry, run your saw down the plywood using the rabbeted edge as a fence Now you have a zero-clearance track Set it on the cut line. Score with a knife* Make the cut. * alternately, run your saw down the jig with only a minimally deep cut in the wood -- just enough to score it. Option 2 - buy a $600 track saw :-)
February 4, 20197 yr Some moons ago, you could purchase a plywood blade. It had many smaller teeth. If you could acquire one of those, the problem would be mostly solved. With the tools that I have, there are a couple of choices, 1. To use a circular saw, install a blade with the most and smallest teeth you have. 2. Use a guide as posted by John and set the blade depth just enough to score the plywood on top. 3. Make the score cut and reset the blade to see if it chips when the blade is deeper. I wish you success and hope to see pictures of your results.
February 4, 20197 yr Author 9 hours ago, FlGatorwood said: Some moons ago, you could purchase a plywood blade. It had many smaller teeth. If you could acquire one of those, the problem would be mostly solved. With the tools that I have, there are a couple of choices, 1. To use a circular saw, install a blade with the most and smallest teeth you have. 2. Use a guide as posted by John and set the blade depth just enough to score the plywood on top. 3. Make the score cut and reset the blade to see if it chips when the blade is deeper. I wish you success and hope to see pictures of your results. The door is mounted so a clear picture is not possible. It came out quiet well. No splinters and the OSB core cut fine also.
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