Now I am excited! Hey, simple mind, simple pleasure.

I ordered the Stanley No. 49 Auger Bit Depth Stop, should be here by Saturday. It'll be a very handy addition for my holes! Ya I know I could make some, but I really like  these mechanical do-dads and gizmos.

 

Nice but can you put it on the auger so we can see how it works?

4 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Nice but can you put it on the auger so we can see how it works?

When it arrives Gerald, when it arrives! I don't have it yet, this coming weekend I'll show ya'll how it works.

Here ya go @Gerald. Got home from work a little while ago, found this in the garage. Tightened it up around my bit, gave it a whirl, and I love it!

 

Gee and all this time I been using a piece of blue tape, sure been missing out.

Can that be set on angles?

 

Herb

5 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Gee and all this time I been using a piece of blue tape, sure been missing out.

Can that be set on angles?

 

Herb

No Herb, straight holes only. I guess you could fudge it if you were careful on angles, but you'd have to drill an angled hole first, then set the gauge while the auger is in the hole, and watch the tips hit the surface as you drill, but it is most definitely designed for straight holes.

37 minutes ago, John Morris said:

No Herb, straight holes only. I guess you could fudge it if you were careful on angles, but you'd have to drill an angled hole first, then set the gauge while the auger is in the hole, and watch the tips hit the surface as you drill, but it is most definitely designed for straight holes.

So when you drill the holes in your chair seats on a compound angle ,how do you do it?

Herb

5 minutes ago, Dadio said:

So when you drill the holes in your chair seats on a compound angle ,how do you do it?

Herb

No depth gauge, I have an angle gauge that I can set my T-bevel too, then set my T-bevel behind my auger and sight the edge of the auger to my T-bevel. But for my shaker chairs Herb, there are no angled holes, all holes are drilled at a 90, they only appear angled because the spindle whether it be leg spindles, or back leg to arm rest spindles, the holes are simply drilled at different locations around the circumference of the spindles, giving the appearance of angles holes.

I am going to build Windsors first chance I get, that will require angled holes such as the seat back spindles at the rear chair seat that you are referring too.

Fun!!!

  Is that New Old Stock (NOS) John or has it been nickel re-plated? It looks like it never had been used.

10 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

  Is that New Old Stock (NOS) John or has it been nickel re-plated? It looks like it never had been used.

I know! Isn't it awesome! The box is pretty beat up, but it looks like it's been in the box since the day it was bought a looooong time ago. I love it.

6 minutes ago, John Morris said:

The box is pretty beat up,

Purists will probably disown me, but apply a couple light coats of Johnson's Paste Wax to the box inside & out. It will help preserve the box and minimize rust due to humidity.

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Purists will probably disown me, but apply a couple light coats of Johnson's Paste Wax to the box inside & out. It will help preserve the box and minimize rust due to humidity.

The box is cardboard Gramps, is your idea still applicable?

5 minutes ago, John Morris said:

The box is cardboard Gramps, is your idea still applicable?

Yes...I do it quite often...cardboard is a product of wood pulp...as dry as that box is, it will soak the first coat almost immediately. I've also used that method on empty paper towel and TP tubes and use them for various tool storage. I sometimes use an old toothbrush to help scrub it in. I'll try to get some pictures posted this weekend. Anyways works for me.

Edited October 13, 20187 yr by Grandpadave52

8 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Yes...I do it quite often...cardboard is a product of wood pulp...as dry as that box is, it will soak the first coat almost immediately. I've also used that method on empty paper towel and TP tubes and use them for various tool storage. I sometimes use an old toothbrush to help scrub it in. I'll try to get some pictures posted this weekend. Anyways works for me.

Well all be danged, thanks for the great tip!

If it wasn't for the box it may have ended up on the What's It page.

Does anyone know if these Stanley auger bit stops work on modern Irwin ship auger bits? And if can they be used with a gas powered drill or can they only be used with a brace?

I think those clamp to the center shaft on the auger; the ship augers I have don't have that center shaft. I'm guessing they wouldn't work though it probably would be too hard to cobble something together that does the same thing.

12 hours ago, Melissa said:

Does anyone know if these Stanley auger bit stops work on modern Irwin ship auger bits? And if can they be used with a gas powered drill or can they only be used with a brace?

First, welcome to The Patriot Woodworker Melissa. Glad you found us. Hope you share some of your projects with us. We love pictures.

 

Not having one of these stops, I can't answer specifically if it will work on Irwin ship auger bits but I suspect not. That said, I'd have reservations anyway using one with a gas powered drill versus a hand brace simply because of speed and torque of a powered tool. Like @Fred W. Hargis Jrmentioned, you might be able to fabricate something that might work. If you have a machine/ fabrication shop in your area, I'd guess they might see making one as a challenge.

 

 

17 hours ago, Melissa said:

Does anyone know if these Stanley auger bit stops work on modern Irwin ship auger bits? And if can they be used with a gas powered drill or can they only be used with a brace?

Melissa, I just went out to my shop to take a closer look at the depth stop, it's been awhile since I used it, I would say for sure it's not made for anything powered by gas or electricity, it's purely a hand tool apparatus. As far as it fitting onto a modern Irwin Auger, I couldn't definitely say no, I think you'd have to just find one and get it, and see if it works, and if it doesn't, perhaps you have another use for it if you do other woodworking with standard wood boring bits. Sorry I couldn't be more help, and welcome to our community!

for this type of auger i would recommend clamping style locking collars...   this will give you enough to lock reasonably around the auger.