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utility door replacement

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IMG_0331.JPG.be44a8c90d1a299f10db1f3b127f6da6.JPGhingesMy utility building doors need to be replaced and I'm looking for recommendations for what wood to use. The original doors were made of 1/2" ply with pine boards for trim. I'm experiencing some rotting in the ply at the bottom of the doors. Should I use 1/2" pressure treated ply or something else. Also having some issues with the pine trim where the door hinges attach. some of the hinges constantly work loose where they attach to the doors. OK on the building side of the hinges. I'm planning to use 1 1/4" screws to attach the trim to the ply.  Here's a photo of the existing doors. 

 

IMG_0331.JPG

Maybe a sheet of marine plywood to reduce the rotting issues and bolts/nuts for the hinges mounted to the door.

See if you can get some MDO plywood,(Medium Density Overlay) It is concrete form plywood and comes in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" sheets and is cheaper than marine by far. It is coated on either 1 ,or both sides with a smooth vinyl. Water doesn't bother it and you could even rip the 1X4 frame around the door out of it. Most lumber yards around here carry it. It paints like a dream, the Sign makers use a lot of it for exterior signs.

 

https://www.andersonplywood.com/mdo-medium-density-overlay/

 

Another material is the Black Form. It is an epoxy coated 3/4" plywood concrete forming  plywood that is good on both sides.

 

https://vinawoodltd.com/product/black-film-faced-construction-formwork-plywood/

 

Either one will last a lifetime on the shed. I guarantee it.

Herb

Edit:

Another material you could use is some exterior roughsawn

plywood siding sheets.

 

 

Edited by Dadio

Several years back I had to do the same Al. I used 5/8" Pressure Treated Ply Siding (T1-11). You may not want the vertical groove look IDK. It does allow for weep drains once your 1x material is attached.

You might consider using treated dimensional lumber for the door braces too.

 

HD, Menards & Lowes usually all carry this.

5/8" 4x8 T1-11-12OC PT Plywood

We were thinking the same thing at the same time.:cowboy:

 

Herb

1 minute ago, Dadio said:

We were thinking the same thing at the same time.:cowboy:

 

Herb

Doesn't bode well for you if you're thinking like me...you probably should call your Dr. 1st thing in the morning and tell him it's an emergency.:lol:

After building new doors don't stop there.  Build an awning over the door.  Keep the weather off the door and it will last forever.

I had the same issue, used the Hardie cement board siding for the doors with treated lumber for trim..   Heavy but has not rotted.   Roly

  • Author

Things I have to consider are, reasonable weight and costs for the intended use.I don't want to spend $500 for doors on a building that cost me under $1000 to build. That was about 25 years ago though:lol:. The building was built using 5/8" T- 1 11. So, I really prefer not to use that for the doors, just for aesthetics.

Edited by It Was Al B

1 hour ago, It Was Al B said:

Things I have to consider are, reasonable weight and costs for the intended use.I don't want to spend $500 for doors on a building that cost me under $1000 to build. That was about 25 years ago though:lol:. The building was built using 5/8" T- 1 11. So, I really prefer not to use that for the doors, just for aesthetics.

Is that your shop, or for yard/garden tools? A little short ramp would be a good upgrade too,

Just saying,

Herb

  • Author

It's a small 8' x 12' utility building, used for storing yard hand tools, fertilizers, bird seed, etc, and to store deck furniture during the winter months. Here's a photo of my shop and storage area for my tractor, snow blower,pressure washer, chipper shredder etc

IMG_0117.JPG

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After pricing, the most expensive option, "1/2" marine ply and 1 X 4 white oak", it would cost over $250 just for the wood. Guess I'll go with a quality exterior ply and white pine. The last doors lasted over 20 years. This time I will seal between the pine and plywood using silicone to prevent moisture from getting between the boards and the plywood. Also think I'll drive the screws from the ply side into the boards for a more pleasing effect.. If it lasts 20 years, that will be long after I've left this planet. My youngest daughter will be left with the property, and I know she plans to retire in a warmer climate zone.

19 hours ago, It Was Al B said:

that will be long after I've left this planet.

Eh, don't rush off, ok?  ;)

Instead of white pine look at cedar fence boards, they may last longer and are inexpensive.  Roly

  • Author
14 hours ago, p_toad said:

Eh, don't rush off, ok?  ;)

I'll try not to. :lol:

  • Author

Ordered the materials today. I did go with the marine ply. $87.00 for a 4 X 8 x 1/2 sheet. Everything will be painted on all sides before assembly.

Edited by It Was Al B

  • 4 weeks later...

AW SHOOT, JES WHEN YALL WUZ GITTIN INTERESTING.

  • Author
  • Popular Post

 

The new doors are built and installed. I added a few shelves to store small garden tools, hose nozzles,washers and attachment fittings.

 

 

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IMG_0341.JPG

nice job Al...

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