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Found 17 results

  1. steven newman

    hinge details.jpg

    From the album: A Stepback Cupboard

    Hinges came from a Yard Sale last year.....had to buy screws for them. Walnut plugs cover the counter-bores where screws were used.
  2. kmealy

    Euro Hinges

    I see a lot of Euro-hinges in my work, often just needed some adjustments to line up doors. In the last five or six project that I've done with doors, I've used them. I'll have to admit, when I looked at all the options in the catalog, I got real confused. Cups and mounting plates sold separately, soft close option, degree of opening, amount of overlap, face frame or frameless, type of mounting screws, 3 or more different brands, etc. . (Though it's somewhat easier to just go to Rockler and pick up one of the smaller number of options there). This just came in and I found it to be a good guide into helping select what you need. https://www.familyhandyman.com/smart-homeowner/all-about-euro-hinges?pmcode=IVBJJU103&_cmp=DiyTipsHintsNL&_ebid=DiyTipsHintsNL7/30/2017&_mid=159942&ehid=EBC4D8BEC6F08D97A318788DB78D9A1244AF138A P.S. I found out years ago that Blum hinges have a lifetime guarantee. If one ever fails, they'll send you a replacement. And here is a presentation Blum gave the the woodworking club last year https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85f44c62cf7023fd358e2dc03/files/c3597fcd-a098-4ddd-be57-90932b8a3976/Concealed_Hinge_Presentation_Blum.pdf
  3. From the album: Walnut & Cherry Box

    Showing the back of the box. Wave effect in the panel is from the panel being a hair uneven. Small brass hinges. Corner joints are a Tongue & Groove glue joint, no other fasteneres were used.
  4. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I used nail-less hinges since the box isn't so big.

    © Cindy Trine

  5. John Morris

    A Little Hinge Trick

    When using small hinges to install delicate frame doors or any thing smaller then a standard cabinet door that requires a mortised hinge, I like to crimp my little hinges to close the gap between the door and the mating surface of what ever your installing the door on. Once you close the gap in the hinge, then mortise it in, you have a nice tight fitting door with virtually zero gap. The first pic is a standard small hinge, in this case I have a 2" brass hinge I bought from the home center for a display case I am building. You will see how "Gappy" the hinge is right out of the bag new. Put the little hinge in a vise, Then tighten the vise as tight as you can, be careful not to insert the hinge too far into the vise jaws or you'll just be crimping the hinge against the pin. The pic below shows my hinge after I tightened down on it. There you have it, a very simple little hinge trick for closing those gaps in your doors, works great for jewelry boxes, small cabinets, or for any project that requires small hinges. And, don't worry about marring the surface of the hinge with the vise jaws, because the jaws are against the bottom surface of the hinges, and I have yet to see any scratches on the brite side of the brass, but you can always slip a piece of wax paper in between the hinge to prevent marring if your worried about it. Thanks for reading!
  6. steven newman

    Today's "pickings"

    First off, I am not cheap,.....merely frugal... Picked a few things today, spent about $8.50.... I have a complete Metric set of these 3/8" drive sockets. My son needed a set of SAE Deep well sockets. $5 Original price was $1.99, yard sale price was $0.50 . I will use these more to clean up any "details" a beading plane may leave. NO, I do NOT carve... Bag #1, and.. Dollar for the two of them, gave me nine hinges....only Bag#2 had screws, though...wound up with three styles, three each.. I wonder where I can use these.... Next, sitting UNDER those two bag was this thingy Did not see the chuck key anywhere...drat. A 1/4" drill bit will not fit in that chuck. marked as George A. Terry, of Buffalo, NY. More for working on MAC aircraft...might make some use out of it The Boss spent way more than I did....oh well.
  7. oldwoodie

    Screen door hinges

    Neighbor picked up a screen door that is 1" thick, has plastic frame. It looks like it has never been used. She has no hinges, and I am wondering what type I should use. Thanks!
  8. Gene Howe

    Advice needed

    My brother has asked me to build a couple cases for a pair of commemorative rifles. Approximate dimensions are 50" long, 8" deep and 8" wide. Material will be 5/8" mesquite for one. The other, also 5/8", species TBD. Not sure yet, of the construction details for either lid. Maybe raised panels. But, the cases will be built as an enclosed box and the lid will be separated afterwards. I'm in a quandary about hinges. Simplest would be stopped piano hinges. I could make wood hinges, but there'd be no stop. Don't want a lid stay for various reasons. Considered quadrant hinges but I think the box is too long and they might rack. Same with similar designs. Leaning towards three or four butt hinges, if I can find any that are stopped, well, maybe only two need to be stopped, more heavy duty than the typical blister packed junk and, solid brass. Y'all's thoughts and advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  9. steven newman

    Hinge install,and another PIP

    More camera issues today....started to install the hinges on that Cherry box, just about got it done, and the camera acted up. Oh well, laid out some toys for this job Had a bit of trouble with those push drills.....changed to a different drill later. Had these two to install.. And I used the square to set how far in from the corners to start the hinges at. Marked a line on both halves of the "joint".. Used that chisel, and a couple others, set it at each spot, smack it twice with the mallet, and move along. Wider chisel to level the playing field. Pencil to mark the holes using the hinge as a guide. pilot holes for the screws.. And repeat until all rebates are done. Waxed the brass screws,and installed the lid. Found a jig to hold the lidded box up enough to add a coat of 50/50 mix. So, now a PIP? This is the front, needs a latch yet...rotate 90 degrees Side #1, rotate.. Ah yes, those hinges. Rotate again.. And the other side. Oh, about that other drill I used for pilot holes? That Buck Rogers drill was having "issues" with holding onto that small of a bit. This was the second eggbeater I tried. First one wasn't able to tighten down enough. The only markings on this drill is a "No. 5" on the crank. Seemed to work well enough. On Dec.15...I will be going through same day surgery for them to scope the knee. Have a lot of "junk" floating around in there. They will also be "sanding down" all the rough spots Uncle Arthur has been leaving. Waiting on the Hospital to tell what time to show up that day. Hoping to get this box done before that happens...
  10. steven newman

    Planning stages, bit box

    Ok, Been doing a wee bit of research......found a few ideas. Right now, my stash of lumber is mainly 3/4" x 5-1/2" Pine, with a few 1x4s thrown in. Looking at a box for those auger bits to call home. Leave the Pine at 3/4" or resaw....(resaw means a new blade for the bandsaw...) Will need a lot of hinges, and latches. Box looks to be a "layer cake" sort of thing. Each layer can be un-latched to open up, while the rest stay latched.....$$ in brass hardware.... Each layer will need a bottom. Plywood, or thinned pine... Will need a way to keep things from rolling around inside each layer.......drill out a block to stick the shafts into? Maybe combine both the bottom panel and the bit holder into a single block? Drill the holes needed, then cut off halfway along, and halfway in thickness... Corner joints? Might go back to plain old finger joints again. It would match the rest of the box "set" I have going.... Single Brain Cell Sketch Up is on-line, working out a few details. Have to have places for a few non-auger bits, as well. May save the Cherry and Walnut scraps for dividers in the old bit box, to house the squares and bevel gauges. Depends on what they decide to do with this knee, and when they will be doing it. May have enough time to cobble something up......
  11. Well, I released the lid from the clamps.....lid was a hair undersized compared to the box......should have measured a third time. Grabbed a couple planes, and put the box on a diet Those darker lines? Shadows from the drop cords. Planes are a #60-1/2 and a Craftsman #C3 ( Millers Falls No. 8) There is a shadow line around where the lid meets the box. Gave the Cherry a splash of Alkee-haul to highlight the grain, if any.. I guess there is a bit of grain. Hinges? Brass ones, package says ACE hardware, price tag said $3.49. These also have nails to install them with. Will need to bend down the part with the curves, as these ar a bit too wide. This is before the grain got a bath.. Still undecided about what will go into this box...yet. Right now, trying to decide on a Cherry Friendly finish....maybe a latch or a knob? may add brass corner plates? Less than$1 in wood, right now. Hinges were from a yard sale tub of parts.....maybe $2 for the tub. Working in the shop? Priceless....
  12. steven newman

    Lid work, on that box

    Used the vise to hold this box still, long enough to mark a line clear around.. Trying to land anywhere but right in a pin. Brought down the "new" saw, to cut the lines.. Yeah, it is the cordless one from the yard sale. It is also about as heavy as my all-metal saws. Cut my way around all four sides, with the second narrow end last, still had a bit of a bind.. Wound up with this. Set the bottom aside, for now. Added the insert for the top.. Just nailed in place, no glue. Then came those hinges... Had to remember which way it sat on the bottom part of the box. Vise to hold things in place. Try using these screws, before the BP Meds.. A pilot hole of sorts was made with a small nail.....Hinges are on, maybe load this thing up? Might work. Unloaded it, and sanded, sanded, and filled and sanded Sanding filler was just glue and bandsaw sawdust. Not sure what all was in the dust, but, when sanded smooth.. Most of the stuff is filled in. Loaded this thing up again Closed the lid, and added the first coat of the "Brew" Will let it dry, then work on it a bit more. Maybe go looking for a latch? Maybe by this weekend, it might be done?
  13. steven newman

    Back view

    From the album: Box for a Stanley 45

    Back side, showing the brass hinges. Went and added slotted head screws, instead of phillips ones.
  14. I don't care how old this chest is, it's been refinished, retrofitted with non original hardware, and it has no legacy, nothing, nada. This guy is kidding right? That being said, you don't need lineage or legacy for a historical piece to be of value, furniture can be graded by other means, but this piece has no other means, not even the original finish. This chest is nearly 300 years old, pine would have a much deeper amber patina to it with that amount of time behind it. So either two things are happening here: He sanded it down before refinishing, in which case the piece is worthless. He Found a chest that is much later than originally thought in age. If you look at the darker spots where dings and nicks have formed, they are left virtually black in color, indicating the surface was completely sanded, leaving behind the darker nicks below the sanded surface. This may have been a great piece, until the refinishing took place. Then this fellow goes and adds hardware to it in the form of a chain or something to that fact. I am not a furniture historian by any means, but things just don't add up. Here is the $68,000 eBay link
  15. steven newman

    PIP, Stanley Style Tool Box

    Just a PIP of where this box is at.. I usually have a bit of trouble, when hinges get used.. But at least these don't bind up....lots of fine tuning to do, yet.. Need to decide on some latches of some sort....gathering a few tools to toss inside when this box is done.. Well,it is a start....
  16. steven newman

    Drill bit box, update #3

    Got this thing almost finished, waiting on the BLO. Second coat is on. Hinges are on have a latch installed on the front.. made a rack to hold the bits in place.. Merely notch some metal angles, then screwed them in place. Test fit to make sure the bits would fit. Old chisel to adjust a couple for width. Drawer liner mesh to cut down on the rattles. Side view. Grain looks decent enough. lid will actually stay opened, on it's own... Got MOST of the bits in there. Will just have to do, for now. Waiting to see how many more coats of BLO I'll need...
  17. steven newman

    Lid wasn't working out

    Well, found out the hinged items and I still don't get along. Trying to install a lid on these Lap Desk.......didn't go too well. Trashed the non-moving part of the lid, as the meeting angles...didn't. Got out the last of the wider boards from the stash. Had a "Live Edge"......maybe a design feature? marked out where I needed to cut. Bandsaw still refuses to cut a straight line, so I'll dig this little saw out. At least it will saw a straight line. Clamped things up, to see what angles needed cut And test fitted some hinges.....close enough for now.... Closed the lid...still a bit "hinge-bound", but better than it was. More Walnut plugs to install, and then just called it a night Front view, and a look at the back edge BTW, while trying to plane a bevel on the edge of this curly Maple stuff That plane sitting beside the panel is one of the two from an auction Seems to be tuned up enough to make a few shavings....The little smooth plane also did a bit of work on the flat areas Millers Falls No.8....about the size of a Stanley #3. Might just add a coat of BLO to this desk, and see what turns up.....

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