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Found 18 results

  1. I don't care how old this chest is, it's been refinished, retrofitted with non original hardware, and it has no legacy, nothing, nada. This guy is kidding right? That being said, you don't need lineage or legacy for a historical piece to be of value, furniture can be graded by other means, but this piece has no other means, not even the original finish. This chest is nearly 300 years old, pine would have a much deeper amber patina to it with that amount of time behind it. So either two things are happening here: He sanded it down before refinishing, in which case the piece is worthless.
  2. When using small hinges to install delicate frame doors or any thing smaller then a standard cabinet door that requires a mortised hinge, I like to crimp my little hinges to close the gap between the door and the mating surface of what ever your installing the door on. Once you close the gap in the hinge, then mortise it in, you have a nice tight fitting door with virtually zero gap. The first pic is a standard small hinge, in this case I have a 2" brass hinge I bought from the home center for a display case I am building. You will see how "Gappy" the hinge is right out of the bag
  3. hingesMy utility building doors need to be replaced and I'm looking for recommendations for what wood to use. The original doors were made of 1/2" ply with pine boards for trim. I'm experiencing some rotting in the ply at the bottom of the doors. Should I use 1/2" pressure treated ply or something else. Also having some issues with the pine trim where the door hinges attach. some of the hinges constantly work loose where they attach to the doors. OK on the building side of the hinges. I'm planning to use 1 1/4" screws to attach the trim to the ply. Here's a photo of the existing doors.
  4. steven newman

    hinge details.jpg

    From the album: A Stepback Cupboard

    Hinges came from a Yard Sale last year.....had to buy screws for them. Walnut plugs cover the counter-bores where screws were used.
  5. I see a lot of Euro-hinges in my work, often just needed some adjustments to line up doors. In the last five or six project that I've done with doors, I've used them. I'll have to admit, when I looked at all the options in the catalog, I got real confused. Cups and mounting plates sold separately, soft close option, degree of opening, amount of overlap, face frame or frameless, type of mounting screws, 3 or more different brands, etc. . (Though it's somewhat easier to just go to Rockler and pick up one of the smaller number of options there). This just came in and I f
  6. From the album: Walnut & Cherry Box

    Showing the back of the box. Wave effect in the panel is from the panel being a hair uneven. Small brass hinges. Corner joints are a Tongue & Groove glue joint, no other fasteneres were used.
  7. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I used nail-less hinges since the box isn't so big.

    © Cindy Trine

  8. First off, I am not cheap,.....merely frugal... Picked a few things today, spent about $8.50.... I have a complete Metric set of these 3/8" drive sockets. My son needed a set of SAE Deep well sockets. $5 Original price was $1.99, yard sale price was $0.50 . I will use these more to clean up any "details" a beading plane may leave. NO, I do NOT carve... Bag #1, and.. Dollar for the two of them, gave me nine hinges....only Bag#2 had screws, though...wound up with three styles, three each.. I wonder where I can use these....
  9. Neighbor picked up a screen door that is 1" thick, has plastic frame. It looks like it has never been used. She has no hinges, and I am wondering what type I should use. Thanks!
  10. My brother has asked me to build a couple cases for a pair of commemorative rifles. Approximate dimensions are 50" long, 8" deep and 8" wide. Material will be 5/8" mesquite for one. The other, also 5/8", species TBD. Not sure yet, of the construction details for either lid. Maybe raised panels. But, the cases will be built as an enclosed box and the lid will be separated afterwards. I'm in a quandary about hinges. Simplest would be stopped piano hinges. I could make wood hinges, but there'd be no stop. Don't want a lid stay for various reasons. Considered quadrant hinges but I thin
  11. More camera issues today....started to install the hinges on that Cherry box, just about got it done, and the camera acted up. Oh well, laid out some toys for this job Had a bit of trouble with those push drills.....changed to a different drill later. Had these two to install.. And I used the square to set how far in from the corners to start the hinges at. Marked a line on both halves of the "joint".. Used that chisel, and a couple others, set it at each spot, smack it twice with the mallet, and move along. Wider chisel to level the playing field.
  12. Ok, Been doing a wee bit of research......found a few ideas. Right now, my stash of lumber is mainly 3/4" x 5-1/2" Pine, with a few 1x4s thrown in. Looking at a box for those auger bits to call home. Leave the Pine at 3/4" or resaw....(resaw means a new blade for the bandsaw...) Will need a lot of hinges, and latches. Box looks to be a "layer cake" sort of thing. Each layer can be un-latched to open up, while the rest stay latched.....$$ in brass hardware.... Each layer will need a bottom. Plywood, or thinned pine... Will
  13. Well, I released the lid from the clamps.....lid was a hair undersized compared to the box......should have measured a third time. Grabbed a couple planes, and put the box on a diet Those darker lines? Shadows from the drop cords. Planes are a #60-1/2 and a Craftsman #C3 ( Millers Falls No. 8) There is a shadow line around where the lid meets the box. Gave the Cherry a splash of Alkee-haul to highlight the grain, if any.. I guess there is a bit of grain. Hinges? Brass ones, package says ACE hardware, price tag said $3.49. These also have
  14. Used the vise to hold this box still, long enough to mark a line clear around.. Trying to land anywhere but right in a pin. Brought down the "new" saw, to cut the lines.. Yeah, it is the cordless one from the yard sale. It is also about as heavy as my all-metal saws. Cut my way around all four sides, with the second narrow end last, still had a bit of a bind.. Wound up with this. Set the bottom aside, for now. Added the insert for the top.. Just nailed in place, no glue. Then came those hinges... Had to remember which way it sat on
  15. steven newman

    Back view

    From the album: Box for a Stanley 45

    Back side, showing the brass hinges. Went and added slotted head screws, instead of phillips ones.
  16. Just a PIP of where this box is at.. I usually have a bit of trouble, when hinges get used.. But at least these don't bind up....lots of fine tuning to do, yet.. Need to decide on some latches of some sort....gathering a few tools to toss inside when this box is done.. Well,it is a start....
  17. Got this thing almost finished, waiting on the BLO. Second coat is on. Hinges are on have a latch installed on the front.. made a rack to hold the bits in place.. Merely notch some metal angles, then screwed them in place. Test fit to make sure the bits would fit. Old chisel to adjust a couple for width. Drawer liner mesh to cut down on the rattles. Side view. Grain looks decent enough. lid will actually stay opened, on it's own... Got MOST of the bits in there. Will just have to do, for now. Waiting to see how many more coats of BLO I'll need...
  18. Well, found out the hinged items and I still don't get along. Trying to install a lid on these Lap Desk.......didn't go too well. Trashed the non-moving part of the lid, as the meeting angles...didn't. Got out the last of the wider boards from the stash. Had a "Live Edge"......maybe a design feature? marked out where I needed to cut. Bandsaw still refuses to cut a straight line, so I'll dig this little saw out. At least it will saw a straight line. Clamped things up, to see what angles needed cut And test fitted some hinges.....close enough for now.... Closed the lid...s
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