Dear folks, I want to put my Shopsmith on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. I so happen to have a dedicated circuit that I had an old 3hp 220v shaper on years ago. You can see the images below.

 

My question is, is there any easy way to convert this to 110v. Can I simply open up the wall outlet, and reconfigure a couple wires for a regular 3 prong outlet? Or do I have to switch the breaker out along with pulling new wires through?

Thanks for any help.

 

Number "4" where the 20/20 is, was my shaper.

 

Here is the outlet I used for the shaper that I want to now use for my Shopsmith.

Sorry buddy, you'll need a new 20 amp breaker and, for safety, new wiring from the box to the new outlet. You can save the outlet box, though. but, you will need a new face plate. 

Since you'll be re wiring, why not just use that extra space, top left, and keep the 220 as is.

 

 

 

2 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Since you'll be re wiring, why not just use that extra space, top left, and keep the 220 as is.

That's what I'll do then! Dang it, was hoping you guys had some magic for this. Thanks Gene.

Might want to wait a bit. There might be an electrical magician among us. 

I was running my Smithy, and I kept tripping the breaker. I had it plugged into a 15amp with another device plugged into the same outlet, a fan. The Smith ran fine till I shoved a 2x4 through the table saw, the saw slowed, and tripped the breaker.

 

I also took the motor cover off and tightened the Poly V belt, it had a seriously bunch of play in it, easily 3/4" deflection, the specs state no more than 1/8". Since it had been sitting for 17 years I probably have more deferred maintenance on it to go, but tightening that belt sure improved the performance all around. It even got quieter too, that was a very pleasant surprise, I thought it was already quiet, but once I tightened the belt, it got even smoother and quieter.

But I definitely need a dedicated circuit.

Looking at the breaker arrangement John, it appears the 220V circuit is just (2) standard 20 amp breakers tied together with the "cross-bar." I would think you should be able to separate the bar giving you (2) 20a circuits...Since your electrical run is conduit, likely a black wire for one leg of the current 220, a red wire for the other leg, a white neutral and green ground. W/o seeing how the receptacle is wired, wouldn't know the exact colors though.

 

I would assume #12 wire since it was only a 20a, 220v, circuit, but might be #10. I would not think 14ga would have been used. You will have to change the receptacle regardless. A picture of the open receptacle box would be helpful...don't forget to turn off the breakers first

 

@DuckSoup can tell us for sure.

 

Well that's interesting...Neutral used as the Ground...at least they marked it as a ground with the green tape.

I would assume the sub-panel still has both a Neutral (white) bar and Ground bar...at least our service provider requires that. 

Technically you have enough wires in the run for a single, 110V, 20A (assuming 12ga wire) circuit.

You still need to separate the connecting bar at the breakers for a single circuit.

I would want the black wire as the feed "hot" wire, (brass screw on the 20a receptacle) remove the green tape from the white and use it as intended for the neutral (silver screw on a 20 amp receptacle) and remark the red as the ground. The red wire will need to be removed from whichever breaker it's connected to and relabeled with green tape and connect to the ground bar if present in the panel. The actual white wire will need to be located on the Neutral bar in the panel. That will make it work correctly...may not be to actual code.

Knowing me and my occasional OCD tendencies, I'd pull an actual stranded green ground wire.

2 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Well that's interesting...Neutral used as the Ground...at least they marked it as a ground with the green tape.

I would assume the sub-panel still has both a Neutral (white) bar and Ground bar...at least our service provider requires that. 

Technically you have enough wires in the run for a single, 110V, 20A (assuming 12ga wire) circuit.

You still need to separate the connecting bar at the breakers for a single circuit.

I would want the black wire as the feed "hot" wire, (brass screw on the 20a receptacle) remove the green tape from the white and use it as intended for the neutral (silver screw on a 20 amp receptacle) and remark the red as the ground. The red wire will need to be removed from whichever breaker it's connected to and relabeled with green tape and connect to the ground bar if present in the panel. The actual white wire will need to be located on the Neutral bar in the panel. That will make it work correctly...may not be to actual code.

Knowing me and my occasional OCD tendencies, I'd pull an actual stranded green ground wire.

Thanks Gramps, great information, after reading all that you have here, I am not sure if my comfort level is up to par to undertake what you just stated to do. I may have to hire an electrician, sounds simple enough but for me, power aint my thing, if it was just a matter of doing something at the receptacle, I'd be ok with that, but getting into the panel and all, I am not comfy. What do you think, about an hour labor on this?

2 minutes ago, John Morris said:

What do you think, about an hour labor on this?

Gosh, I would think it could be done in that amount of time John. Having conduit makes it so much easier...removing the red wire should be able to pull the new green in...the unknown from where I sit is if a ground bar is present or would need to be added...even then 2 hours tops and that would be stretching it IMO.

Thanks so much Gramps, I only brought up an hour because it's going to be a one hour minimum I am pretty sure, at least thats what I would want for showing up. But as you know these guys are quick, and off to the next one. I think I got a budget for this, I'd feel much better having a pro do it.

Thanks as always for your help and clarification.

You should have a breaker at your Main panel John which would de-energize this panel...that is a minimum requirement w/i the NEC. Either one 100 amp breaker or possibly (2) 50 amps unless they chose to use a service disconnect somewhere after the meter.

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

You should have a breaker at your Main panel John which would de-energize this panel...that is a minimum requirement w/i the NEC. Either one 100 amp breaker or possibly (2) 50 amps unless they chose to use a service disconnect somewhere after the meter.

I have the main house panel on the other side of this panel, so right behind this shop panel is my home panel on the exterior wall of the garage. Not sure how they are tied together.

Take a look...hopefully breaker(s) is labeled garage or sub panel...good to know regardless if you do the work or not...never know when you might need to quickly kill power to all of the garage.

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Take a look...hopefully breaker(s) is labeled garage or sub panel...good to know regardless if you do the work or not...never know when you might need to quickly kill power to all of the garage.

Thanks for that Dave, you are absolutely right! I will look, and I will note. Just something I never thought of. Man I feel so deficient with this "stuff".

1 minute ago, John Morris said:

Thanks for that Dave, you are absolutely right! I will look, and I will note. Just something I never thought of. Man I feel so deficient with this "stuff".

I'm fairly confident with most residential stuff and limited light commercial because I had to learn out of necessity. When it come to industrial or heavy commercial and it gets to 440v or 3 phase...way outta my league. 

But hey, that's why were here to help each other...talk about feeling deficient...now you know how I felt when you were whipping out those Shaker chairs and Maloof rockers...

There's that magician. Dave knows his stuff. 

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

But hey, that's why were here to help each other

We got a great thing here Gramps, thanks!

1 minute ago, Gene Howe said:

Dave knows his stuff. 

Yep, available for all sorts of applications and I definitely know this...Best not to get it on your fingers, hands or clothes...

Not gonna disagree with what Dave said, however, I'd keep that 220. You just never know.