Just now, Gene Howe said:

Not gonna disagree with what Dave said, however, I'd keep that 220. You just never know.

Completely understood thanks Gene, since I am going to have a pro come in anyway, I just may have him/her run a new one from the empty slot. Thanks guys, you are the best.

10 hours ago, John Morris said:

That's what I'll do then! Dang it, was hoping you guys had some magic for this. Thanks Gene.

Reconfigure the wiring...

but 1st tell me how many wires you have and what colors they are...

and you will be putting in  120VAC, SINGLE POLE BREAKER and a 15/20A receptacle.....

USA made Bryant/Hubble receptacles are about bullet proof...

back wired using body clamps...

 

Edited August 29, 20187 yr by Stick486

I would have to agree with Gene. Keep the 240 and add a new breaker for the 110. There should be plenty of room in conduit to pull the 14 or 12 G for the new outlet. By the way I have always heard the you can just split the 240 and have 2 110 circuits.

Where is ARTIE when you need him.  John you might PM @Artie and he could walk you through it.

Herb

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

Where is ARTIE when you need him.  John you might PM @Artie and he could walk you through it.

Herb

Thanks Herb! I think though Gramps pretty much spelled it all out clearly. Now its just me being apprehensive for handling power. It's never been anything I feel comfortable with. A pro is probably in order here.

OK, I hate giving advice on these matters, because of the lawyers. For an electrician, this is simple, for someone that makes such beautiful work as you, should be easy. 1-NEC states that you may not use tape to identify wires under 6 AWG, your machine will not know the the difference. This is a fairly new code change, I have been using tape since the mid 70’s. Pretty sure my finished work didn’t become “Dangerous” over night.  2- basically you have two wires connected to the breaker, a red one and a black one. Each one is bringing 110 volts to the receptacle giving you the 220 volts, plus the wire which has been re-identified as green for ground. This wire is connected to the green ground screw on the receptacle, and should be connected to a separate ground bar in your sub panel. If the sub panel was wired to code it MUST have a separate ground bar, and an isolated neutral bar. In essence, the black wire would go to the brass colored screw on a duplex receptacle, and be on a 20 amp breaker (preferably a single pole breaker, but will work on a two pole breaker, which is what you have it on right now). Remove green tape from white wire, and install it on the silver colored terminal of a duplex receptacle, and MUST be on the neutral bar in the sub panel (which should only have other white wires, or wires at least identified as white with tape) on it. One might, at their own judgement, tape the red wire green at both ends and install one end on the green terminal of a duplex receptacle, and the other on the GROUND bar in the sub panel. The ground bar should have only bare copper/aluminum wires on it, or wires that are green, or identified as green. Does the electricity know what color the wires are? Or taped as? Of course not, I am only telling you code. Your machine only cares it’s getting 120 volts (or your utility’s reasonable facsimile) on a 20 amp breaker, and in case of whoopsies, a ground. 

Pretty much there should be a breaker in your main panel that kills power to the sub panel, but it could be wired to main lugs (doubtful, but I’ve seen it), The main breaker for your house should definitely kill it. Put white wire (with green tape removed) on neautral bar, put red wire taped green on ground bar, wire up duplex receptacle as noted above-black to brass terminal, white to silver colored terminal, green to green terminal.  Electrical connections work best when they are tight, SERIOUSLY. Don’t go Magilla Gorilla on the connections, they strip kinda easy, but pretty firm is good. If this seems scary/questionable/ or makes you uneasy, and an electrician is in the budget, there is only some less money for other things as a negative. My personal thought is any of you that work with extremely sharp/fast/edges, and don’t hurt yourselves (much lol) can do this. Please if you have any questions, I don’t mind. If you wanna move to New England I’d gladly do it for you     

OK, made my first post (just a couple of minutes ago), without having gone to page 2 of this thread. If putting a 120 volt/20 amp duplex receptacle on the same surface your sub panel is on, works for you as far as physical location of the receptacle, leave 220 volts as is, and have electrician nipple a box off of your sub panel, and wire it. Easy Peasy, and you still have a 220 volt receptacle. Your new receptacle may need to be arc fault protected, and also gfi protected, which then may trip every time you turn on the SS. (If this occurs, you may at your own judgement, remove expensive afi/gfi receptacle, and just replace it with a standard 20 amp duplex receptacle from one of the higher grade brands. This will end the nuisance tripping. I mention this because at my friends house with the new addition I am wiring, I gave them 3 -20 amp circuits, afi/and gfi protected, as required. This was for temp power to build the addition. Every time they plugged the chop saw into these receptacles and tried to use the saw, it tripped the breakers. He had to run a cord into the kitchen and use a kitchen receptacle to run the chop saw. My opinion is arc fault protection has no benefit other than the profits the 4 companies that own the technology make. GFI protection I swear by. OK I’m jumping off my soap box now  

20 minutes ago, Artie said:

Every time they plugged the chop saw into these receptacles and tried to use the saw,

Well you answered a question for me Artie...I have had trouble with only one tool tripping the GFCI receptacle in the garage. It's a 10" bench-top drill press (Made in China) I bought at a yard sale for $5. It was missing the switch and switch plate...they had it direct wired. I made a plate out of old HDPE cutting board, inserted a power tool switch from Grizzly, new 14 ga cord and all was good...so I thought...as soon as I flip the switch the GFCI trips...works fine on non-GFCI circuit. All other power tools work fine on the same GFCI or like circuits including my little 70A, 110V stick welder...TS, RAS, CMS, Floor model drill press, grinders, corded drills, hand held circular saws, etc. IDK...I find no leakage through the motor starter capacitor, leakage from the motor windings, etc.

 

Our local code requires GFCI protection on all garage receptacle outlets unless direct hard wire, dedicated circuits. I had to demonstrate to the Inspector & Field Engineer all garage receptacle outlets were GFCI protected as well as bath, kitchen, laundry room and all outside receptacles before he would sign the final inspection. Oddly enough, I can have a pole barn with a dirt floor; GFCI is recommended, but not required.

It used to be that basements didn't need GFCI, but that changed some code books back.   I had them put in my basement (much to the electrician's chagrin, but to the delight of the varmints who stole a bunch of them).   Make sure you can still get that  same brand/model of breaker (I would keep the 240 and put in a new circuit in that one open slot) or your electrician will have to find a UL compatible model for your box.

Artie, and everybody here, thank you very much for your expertise! Thank you a whole lot!

I used GFCI breakers. They came with stick on tabs for the receptacle boxes that said "GFCI PROTECTED". The inspectors were satisfied. But, code enforcement around here is pretty lax.

On ‎8‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 9:17 PM, Gene Howe said:

Not gonna disagree with what Dave said, however, I'd keep that 220. You just never know.

Is it not possible to set a sub-panel in place of the 220v receptacle, and then you'd have both 220 and 110?

I am very suprised that the shop smith is not a 110/220 V motor and can be rewired for 220 then the amp drop by 50%.  This would save the shop smith from heat and let it live longer.  

Dave his panel may be a grounded neutral but that said I still would use the red as the ground.  Or if rewire the Shop Smith to 220 then add a ground to the box and to the panel if it will fit in the conduit or replace the conduit.

The minum size wire for 20 A is 12 GA if the run is over 50Ft. you may want to go to 10 GA.

 

4 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Dave his panel may be a grounded neutral

It is possible depending on the age of construction; The NEC code for independent ground bar has been in place for at least 25 years the best I recall...at least locally with our REMC.

The idea of converting the SS from 110V to 220V if possible makes good sense...John would either need to replace the SS cord or at least the plug end.

The conduit size (appears to be 3/4") should handle the adding of an actual ground (green) wire...pull using a mono-filament pulling cable...in a pinch and a little taping creativity, .065" or .080" string trimmer line would work since it's only a single wire.