Have most of the Maple parts cut to rough sizes....saw blade is set up, connectors done.   Goal is to make a Frame Saw...

 

Will get a few pictures, later.   Today being a Monday, after all

 

Traditional Chinese Woodworking site has a bunch of videos ( in Mandarin) and a few show the fellow building such a saw.   My feeble attempt will be close to what he is doing.   I still need a 1/4" all-thread, a wing nut and washer to match..for use as the top cord to tension the saw blade.   Tore a couple old Butcher's saws down for some of the parts. 

 

So, do I post this saw build here, or..in the Hand tool section?

19 minutes ago, steven newman said:

So, do I post this saw build here, or..in the Hand tool section?

Yes.

John

(Either way, we'll follow along!

1 hour ago, steven newman said:

So, do I post this saw build here, or..in the Hand tool section?

My thoughts would be the hand tool section...but...

57 minutes ago, HARO50 said:

Yes.

John

(Either way, we'll follow along!

what he said...

Well, as long as I am doing the wood work part of this...I'll keep it here...

I started out with two Maple blanks like this.    Saw blade from an old Meat saw....new rivet, though

As near as I can copy...this is the rough outlines..

There is a 1/4" hole at the "top", for the all-thread to go. saw blade is 11 ppi

I also ripped a strip of Maple to act as a stretcher..

Which means I need to cut two tenons, and two mortises.    I also need to round off all the sharp edges...spokeshave work

this is where I am at, right now.   The fellow made thee 30 minutes videos, to make his version, plus a short one on the saw blade he used. 

We'll see how this turns out,  as a crosscut saw. 

Stay tuned, the cussing could start at anytime....

 

Size of this contraption?.....

Maybe 18" of saw cut length?  It is a start, anyway.  

Steve, will a M&T joint hold up with the racking it's sure to get? Would a big, pinned, half lap dovetail be better? 

But then, a pinned, through tenon, or a housed wedged one would be sturdy, no? 

Just spitballing, here. You be da expert.

GE Hong used a bridle joint on his.    I am thinking just stub tenons, as the blade and the all thread will take all the stress. 

A few other saws I have seen, the joints look like this.....))------------(( which allows a little flex as you tighten the top cord/rod.   Some used a long length of cord, with a wooden paddle to tighten it up.   Some used the metal rod, and a wing nut. 

 

We'll see how this goes.  

It was the tightening of the all thread or cord that would cause the stress on that tenon joint, wouldn't it? I guess that when the blade is installed, that would limit the movement somewhat. 

Hey, NICE! FWIW, that was the first saw I ever used. The standard wood saw in 1950's Germany. Even logs were cut with these, but a somewhat larger version, probably a one-meter blade. Mine had a heavy cord and a wood strip to tension the blade. Also, blades were interchangeable depending on what you were cutting. As for stress on the tenon joint, the ends just push straight in on the center piece, so as long as there is no side play in the joint, you're good!

John

Edited November 7, 20178 yr by HARO50

Used a pair of tools today,,

The chisel was for mortises, the 'shave was to round things over, before the sander smoothed things out..

Jig to hold these handle still, long enough to chop a hole...

tenons were fatter and longer than needed, so they got trimmed  a bit...test fit?

Got the other handle fitted, as well

Will have to sand away the markings..later.   Tried the saw blade assembly...

And cranked the wingnuts down as far as I could....added a clamp..

Just need to buy the rod for the top.    need to sand this smooth, and maybe a little finish....then post as a project?  

Lookin' good, Steve. Still think ya oughtta pin those tenons.

Remains to be seen...

Got the all-thread, the wingnut, and a washer today....got those installed..

Had to cut the rod for length, then grind off a bit AFTER the wingnut and washer were in place.  The other end?

Had been folded over, and into a shallow mortise.    Grinder cleaned it up, as well.   Things were cranked down tight enough the blade twanged when tapped.   Gave it a try....wasn't worth much as a rip saw, wrong teeth,  but when I tried to crosscut some Hard Maple..

It sang right on through.....smooth cut, too...

This is where the blade came out of the cut.   I need a bit of practice in using one of these saws,  Rather different grip and guide going on...

About $5 counting the store-bought stuff....seems to work..

You do impressive work, my friend. 

Can you find a rip blade for it? Maybe a broken bandsaw blade. Can you sharpen those? Silly question...of course YOU can. 

 

Sweet project right there Steven,

Cal

17 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Still think ya oughtta pin those tenons.

Then you wouldn't be able to break it down and store it if you wanted too.

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

Then you wouldn't be able to break it down and store it if you wanted too.

Wouldn't glue present the same problem? 

An unlglued through tenon with a slot for a wedge would allow for break down.

Interesting discussion. Steve's probably just shaking his head.

A contractor I once knew had a response to his trim carpenters about their methods and concerns for accuracy..."Hey, We're not building pianos, just cut the d@mnd thing." 

 

 

Nice project Steve.  Very unique.  I like it.  Highland Woodworking has a variety of blades to offer.

 

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bow-saw-frame-saws-blades.aspx

 

The fellow I copied this saw from...had over 30 of these saws hanging up in his shop.    Why change blades...when you can just change the entire saw..

 

 

No pins, no glue needed.  Joint has to flex a bit as you tighten the saw. 

 

Have a coat of Amber shellac that needs rubbed out on the Hard Maple woodworks.  

GE Hong used a "Watchspring"  for his blades.   At the end of the videos in this project, he detailed how he makes a saw blade.    I, being rather lazy simply found a new use for those old Butcher's  saw.   They seem to be everywhere around these parts.   I don't need them to cut a steak, might as well see about a use for them.  usually a dollar or two at yard sales.

53 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Wouldn't glue present the same problem? 

An unlglued through tenon with a slot for a wedge would allow for break down.

Interesting discussion. Steve's probably just shaking his head.

A contractor I once knew had a response to his trim carpenters about their methods and concerns for accuracy..."Hey, We're not building pianos, just cut the d@mnd thing." 

 

 

No glue, the original frame saws were made to break down and put away in the tool box or chest. The force of the tension rope at the top kept the saw together. It was just a hit and run historically accurate statement I put out there Gene, wasn't slamming your suggestion. I really have wanted to make one for quite awhile. I am very depressed with my Woodworking right now, I have not done anything in months. I am living my Woodworking dreams through you all right now.

2 minutes ago, John Morris said:

No glue, the original frame saws were made to break down and put away in the tool box or chest. The force of the tension rope at the top kept the saw together. It was just a hit and run historically accurate statement I put out there Gene, wasn't slamming your suggestion. I really have wanted to make one for quite awhile. I am very depressed with my Woodworking right now, I have not done anything in months. I am living my Woodworking dreams through you all right now.

That makes sense. If they're loose, my concerns for the rigidity of the joint becomes irrelevant. To quote Willie S. "Much ado about nothing." 

 

Hey, didn't you cut some wood fascia, recently? 

Hold on to those dreams. The time will come.

Some times, even herding hairy legged spiders, is a priority. 

Impressive project Steven!

Great re-purpose of the meat-saws pieces parts and available material.

Your mind never sleeps when it comes to useful project ideas

Thanks for sharing...

 

You've likely already seen this, but just showed up in my You-Tube Recommended list...Paul Sellers version of the frame saw using plain 'ole spruce...