I plan to install 1/4" sheet rock over a wall of wood paneling. About 7 panels of sheet rock. Is there an attachment available to use with my drill driver to drive and set the screws to the proper depth? If so, what is the attachment  called ? With 1/4" sheetrock I'm concerned about driving the screws too deep.I'm guessing that thin sheets will be a bit fragile. I know this will require a bit of framing modifications around windows and the entrance door. This will be a better aesthetic choice than painting the paneling.

Edited November 19, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
Added tags

It's called a dimpler, you can get them anywhere, from Ebay to Amazon, to your local big box or hardware.

 

 

Steve

Bosch D60498 Drywall Dimpler Screw Setter....

4 minutes ago, Steve Krumanaker said:

It's called a dimpler, you can get them anywhere, from Ebay to Amazon, to your local big box or hardware.

Steve

 

sets too deep for ¼'' rock...

to be safe use adhesive w/ the DW...

I'm sure you want the DW to be flat... ¼'' doesn't do that well...

The best of the good stuff...

Loctite® PL® 100 Drywall Construction Adhesive

OSI is some you can't go wrong w/..

Edited September 11, 20178 yr by Stick486

A few years back, my family room had paneling.  I removed the paneling and replaced it with 1/2" dry wall and used the dimpler.  I was glad I removed the paneling and went with the 1/2" dry wall.  I did have to trim out the doors ways and baseboards due to the thickness differences.  Removing the paneling is very easy and I think working with 1/2" drywall would be easier than 1/4".  I used 8', 10', and 12.  The longer lengths help reduce the number of butt joints.

Danl

Thanks Steve and Stick for the quick responses. I wondered about glueing. Thanks for the tip Stick.

Danl, I had considered removing the paneling, but the panels are apparently glued to the studs.

is there rock under the paneling???

@It Was Al B....

do you see the difference in posted samples of Dimplers...

Dan's is depth stopped only...

the Bosch has automatic clutch release to prevent drywall tear-out, magnetic, depth settable, tips can be replaced...

If the paneling is tight and undamaged, have you considered wall liner? This can be applied over paneling, thick enough not to telegraph the grooves and paintable. I thought that I remembered Sherwin Williams coming out with a version some years ago; it had a texture like felt and was impregnated with something like Plaster of Paris. It had to be wetted when being hung, but dried rigid and relatively hard and then could be primed and painted. I looked on their web site, couldn't find it but there are a lot of hits if you search for "wall liner". It's relatively thin and so would not need any  reframing around doors and windows.

Having done this exact job, I can tell you you do want to use glue on the backs...as I recall the pattern was a bead around the circumference, and than an X marked across the center. I didn't rely on a drywall driver to set the screws, I used a battery drill and stopped them by eye. In my case I had peeled off the paneling which was glued to the rock under it, the rock was so badly damaged that skinning it over was the fastest solution. That was the first time I had ever heard of 1/4" drywall. Then material tomp mentioned is actually not that bad, in my case I stripped the paneling so it wasn't an option.

I'm a bit late getting back here. There is no rock under the paneling. The panels are glued directly to the studs. I will look for the Bosch Dimpler. It may be available at Lowes.

I haven't heard of the wall liner.It might be an option if it will work well without problems matching the seams.

Thanks Fred for providing the glue pattern used.

19 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

There is no rock under the paneling

 

flex is going to be an issue...

notch trowel the adhesive on...

FRP mastic may be your better bet.. read the can..

 

19 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

I will look for the Bosch Dimpler. It may be available at Lowes.

 

it is...

so isn't the mastic and panel adhesive....

if you go w/ caulk tubes... do tightly spaced beads...

@It Was Al B...just saw this thread...I think the liner tomp is talking about is something like this...Wall Liner

 

Home Depot carries a similar type product, but it has a textured surface...kind of pricey IMO $28.55 for 56 ft² . IDK what two 4x8 sheets of 1/4" drywall costs but would think it would be cheaper...of course you have the seams to tape and sand but from what I've read, it's recommended to fill the grooves on the wood paneling with spackle so you have to do that as well. It is recommended to hang the liner horizontal...there are a few You-tube videos out there on the process.

10 hours ago, It Was Al B said:

I'm a bit late getting back here. There is no rock under the paneling. The panels are glued directly to the studs. I will look for the Bosch Dimpler. It may be available at Lowes.

 

You know, I cussed the dipwad that did our paneling when I was removing it, thinking it couldn't possibly be worse....seems like just paneling would have a lot of "drumming" to it.

Edited September 12, 20178 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

I installed paneling in the basement room at the last house - real paneling too, no chipboard or Masonite - and was worried about the flexing and lack of support so installed 3/8" drywall underneath. I taped the joints only enough to fill the seam groove and hit the nail holes one time and then glued up the paneling. Made a nice solid installation.

 

I've used 1/4" drywall as a cover for a damaged ceiling; the bathroom in this house had formica glued to the ceiling when we bought it, not a very good job either so I figured that the quickest/easiest fix was to just glue/nail the drywall over it. Not a big bathroom - 5-1/2' x 12' - as I recall I troweled on adhesive with a notched trowel and used drywall screws into the trusses to hold it while it dried. 27 years ago and it's still hanging..................

 

I've done a couple of kitchens where we glued formica to the ceiling - pretty common at the time to glue it to the walls between the cabinets - I still have the remnants of the t-shirt I wore that day out in the shop using it as a rag. Contact cement does NOT wash out of clothing.

On 9/11/2017 at 6:06 PM, It Was Al B said:

There is no rock under the paneling. The panels are glued directly to the studs.

 

you relize that you need to hit the studs when you put up your rock....

9 hours ago, Stick486 said:

 

you relize that you need to hit the studs when you put up your rock....

Definitely!

Couldn't find the Bosch dimpler at Lowes, but I did find a  Maxfit ready load set by Dewalt at HD. That should serve my needs. I started what demolition that is necessary today . A bit more than I realized with the smoke alarm, electrical outlets and switches, wall phone. I'm going to need about a dozen electrical box extenders, and with the change in wall appearance, it will require all new outlets , switches and cover plates .

Edited September 14, 20178 yr by It Was Al B

1 hour ago, It Was Al B said:

it will require all new outlets

 

have you considered hanging your rock vertically to save on labor/finishing and eliminating butts...

devices - use American made Bryant BR15's.. you will not regret it... in stock at Lowes...

their USB charging outlets are about bullet proof...

well made and they have rock solid side clamps... you should be able to do away w/ the pig tails...

use sleeves for your extensions...

 

Finally got the sheet rock so I should be getting started soon. Lowes helped me load the truck, but I was alone to unload. Since I move pretty slowly, it took close to an hour to finish unloading.