No slot or track in my table. Sometimes it might be handy. When routing the ends of narrow sticks of 2" or less, I'll use a squared up 2X6 or 8 as a guide/pusher. That has worked well for me. 

I've done that too... a square cut-off 6 to 8 inches wide works well. I'd love to be able to afford all the fancy doodads to add to the table, but my finances just won't allow it.

John

Just now, HARO50 said:

I've done that too... a square cut-off 6 to 8 inches wide works well. I'd love to be able to afford all the fancy doodads to add to the table, but my finances just won't allow it.

John

John, You can build most of them pretty inexpensively from scrap pieces and buy the over center hold downs from H-F.

Yes... I've become pretty good at "making do" over the years. As I use the table more, I'm sure other ideas will emerge. Until now, my "router table" was the router clamped upside-down in an old Shopmate. Rather a small table, but hey.... whatever works!

John

Gene I built my last router table about 15 years ago and built in tracks going both directions and have never used either. I built the edges sticking out so I could use welding clamps anywhere I needed a clamp and this suits me better than any store bought table I have seen..

2 hours ago, HARO50 said:

 

When using a sled, is the workpiece not higher than the table? Wouldn't this be a problem? Or is the base of the sled so close to the bit that it wouldn't matter?

John

It is higher than the table but so far that hasn't been a problem as the sled base does run close to the bit. I mostly use this for stick and cope joinery.

3 hours ago, HARO50 said:

 

When using a sled, is the workpiece not higher than the table? Wouldn't this be a problem? Or is the base of the sled so close to the bit that it wouldn't matter?

John

I think you have to set the bit height to compensate for the thickness of the sled .

Herb

Here is an example of using a miter gage on a router table. It gave me a lot more stability than free hand.

Herb

38 minutes ago, Dadio said:

I think you have to set the bit height to compensate for the thickness of the sled .

Herb

I realize that, my concern was that the workpiece would dip lower than the sled, but I see where the sled (carrier?) is very close to the bit, so that wouldn't be the case. In the pictures, is that a lock miter bit?

John

Edited October 27, 20169 yr by HARO50

13 hours ago, Dadio said:

If you measure the distance from the bearing to the "T"-slot then set the fence the same on each end, the miter gauge will be perpendicular to the fence if the miter gauge is set @ 90deg.

My fence is set on 2 rails at the ends of the table. There are tapes attached that read in metric and emperial units. I can set my fence to the tapes  and it is parallel to the "T"-slot..

Herb

I like the sound of your fence attachment . Do you have a picture?

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

I think you have to set the bit height to compensate for the thickness of the sled .

that's right but the sled is about .25" thick so I do have to raise the bit to compensate. It hasn't been a problem for my projects.

53 minutes ago, HARO50 said:

I realize that, my concern was that the workpiece would dip lower than the sled, but I see where the sled (carrier?) is very close to the bit, so that wouldn't be the case. In the pictures, is that a lock miter bit?

John

Yes ,John,it is a Lock Miter bit on a set of drawer sides.

 

 

36 minutes ago, Gerald said:

I like the sound of your fence attachment . Do you have a picture?

I will post some pictures soon.

 

15 minutes ago, lew said:

that's right but the sled is about .25" thick so I do have to raise the bit to compensate. It hasn't been a problem for my projects.

I think you are already doing that since you are setting the bit to make the correct cut on the material. Say if you left your bit set at that height and tried to make the cut without the sled, it would not cut at the correct height, the bit would be too high.

 

Herb

I like the miter slot on my Bosch 1181...I also like the quick 'n dirty table top (3/4 ply, hole in the middle, router under the hole, short deck screws) that I made in 15 minutes because I couldn't get to my real one (yeah, a mess for now)...

 

I use the slot for jigs and feather boards.  I know some of you out there can free hand a panel bit with one hand tied behind your back, upside down, blindfolded...you get the picture.  And so my comfort and confidence level goes up when I have extra assurance...or at least, what I think is extra assurance.  I've been wrong before.  I've even used my tenoning jig on the table just because they both happened to be in the same general vicinity.  And then we all use rusty nails to mark boards...go figure...   No offense to the very experienced, just another view...

 

I read in an earlier post that a featherboard is held by a clamp but it also took another clamp in the middle to hold it securely.  Fences are held securely by clamps on either side of the table...for me, however, it's easier to loosen one of the knobs and micro-adjust using my "open-end adjustable hammer with ball and pean" than have to deal with two clamps...

 

"Ta reach his rown" (Scooby Doo)...it's not necessary but I like using it whenever I can.

Most sleds work for the material laying flat on the sled. A different type of sled is required for the material being held vertical against the fence.

Herb

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

I like the sound of your fence attachment . Do you have a picture?

Here are some pictures of both tables.

Herb

26 minutes ago, Dadio said:

Here are some pictures of both tables.

Herb

 

 

Is that fence in the first pic all made from double channel or did you purchase commercially?

@Dadio... you the man Herb...

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

 

 

Is that fence in the first pic all made from double channel or did you purchase commercially?

Gerald, I purchased the table used off Craig List and the fence was on it. The whole thing is made by Jessem, lift,table, and fence.

I use a miter gauge fence mounted on two Big dial indicator magnets bases that can be used on any of my table saws, band saws or router table.

 

 

If you have a router table one of the fist that comes to mind  is cabinets and a slot is needed for production. Doors, drawers and any multi production part..

Edited November 18, 20196 yr by BillyJack