A little while ago I built myself a router table, based on a number of pictures and ideas in magazines. So far I'm happy with it, but I have one question. Many of the pictures show either a T-slot or a miter gauge slot across the table. Do any of you use either of these, and which do you prefer? I can see a use for the T-slot, in mounting a fingerboard, but is a miter gauge really useful on a router table?

John

I did not use either method. For one thing if you do use a t slot the then the fence would have to be square to it. When using a finger board just mount it to a long board and clamp it in place.  Also when you cut the slot in the top it will be weakened and could flex.

I think it is personal preference. my table came with a T-slot. I use it almost exclusively for mounting the feather boards. I have only used a miter gage a few times on the router table,and the fence wasn't involved either time. Some tables have them installed front to back, these are for clamping the fence, mine uses the guides on the outboard edge s of the table to clamp the fence.

Herb

I use both types of slots... finger boards, miter and sled...

properly built sub-assemblies and the top will not weaken if you add slots...

12 minutes ago, Gerald said:

I did not use either method. For one thing if you do use a t slot the then the fence would have to be square to it. When using a finger board just mount it to a long board and clamp it in place.  Also when you cut the slot in the top it will be weakened and could flex.

Would you use the miter gauge and fence together? Fence slides on two short T-slots, so it IS infinitely adjustable. I already have both the aluminum extrusions, but was reluctant to groove the top for that very reason.

John

I put one on mine (miter slot) when i built it maybe 15 years ago. Since then I think I've used it maybe 5-6 times. If I did it over I'd likely go without. I passed on the T slots, I just use C clamps to hold my fence to the table. Consider this: it's easy to add these things on after the table is built, try going without them and see how it goes. If you need either you can add them later.

5 minutes ago, HARO50 said:

Would you use the miter gauge and fence together? Fence slides on two short T-slots, so it IS infinitely adjustable. I already have both the aluminum extrusions, but was reluctant to groove the top for that very reason.

John

Yes you could have occasion to do that. If you were cutting lock miter joints in the end of drawer sides in both on the horizontal and vertical cuts. On rail and stile door cuts on the end grain it is used too.

11 minutes ago, Dadio said:

I think it is personal preference. my table came with a T-slot. I use it almost exclusively for mounting the feather boards. I have only used a miter gage a few times on the router table,and the fence wasn't involved either time. Some tables have them installed front to back, these are for clamping the fence, mine uses the guides on the outboard edge s of the table to clamp the fence.

Herb

I really can't see using the gauge and fence together, but then most of my router work has been done without a table. I did install the front-to-back slots to hold the fence, as well as one ON the fence to hold a fingerboard or plexiglass guard. I've used a longer fingerboard, which I can clamp to the front of the table, but had to clamp a second support to prevent the fingerboard from moving.

John

17 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis, Jr said:

I put one on mine (miter slot) when i built it maybe 15 years ago. Since then I think I've used it maybe 5-6 times. If I did it over I'd likely go without. I passed on the T slots, I just use C clamps to hold my fence to the table. Consider this: it's easy to add these things on after the table is built, try going without them and see how it goes. If you need either you can add them later.

I've used the table half a dozen times, and it basically does what I wanted it to do. Guess I'll wait, and if ever I see a need for either, I can always install it. Thanks for the advice, Fred.

John

Thanks for the input, Gerald, Herb, Stick & Fred. Just trying to get ideas. I'll be building a second fence soon (a split one) since I saw a need recently for a smaller opening in the fence.

John

I have one in mine and have used it a few times.  For some situations in is a good idea to have it.

My previous router table ,I put the original basic Incre jig on it and my own fence to do box joints and dovetails. It came with a right angle jig to clamp the work to it and slide it against the fence, then incrementally move the fence to set the spacing. It worked , but I ended up clamping the material to the miter gauge , and it held it more steady and gave a more accurate cut.

Herb

Even though it's a Craftsman (newer version) mine came equipped with miter slot. I use it mainly for feather boards but have used it on occasion with work pieces. However, as Stick & Herb both mentioned if you plan to use jigs or fixtures would be very valuable. Haven't yet, but intend to make a coping sled for "stick & rail" joints. Jim Heavey's recommendation was to use with miter slot and fence...seem to get more accurate and repeatable joints.

 

At the end of the day John, probably personal preference and what work you primarily intend to do. My .$02

I built the cabinet for my router table, using a Rockler tabletop with miter slots. To use the fence in conjunction with the miter slots would require precision alignment  of the fence with the  miter slots. I think the slots would be useful  with a sled, but I have never really found them very useful.

sled/miter gauge w/stops and no fence...

I find the slot very useful. Miter gauge and my sliding shaper jig.

7 hours ago, HARO50 said:

Would you use the miter gauge and fence together? Fence slides on two short T-slots, so it IS infinitely adjustable. I already have both the aluminum extrusions, but was reluctant to groove the top for that very reason.

John

John I do not know for sure ,but when using the fence most times I have the bit buried in the fence to isolate the bering. My thought was that the mitre gauge would have to be lined up perpendicular to the fence and this would create a problem. Then there is the answer someone else said he has only used the gauge a few times in six years. Then there are other ways to get there.

I mounted my router table to the end of my slider so that I can use the Sliding table  with it.  and it extends the surface of my  saw's table top.

 

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

John I do not know for sure ,but when using the fence most times I have the bit buried in the fence to isolate the bering. My thought was that the mitre gauge would have to be lined up perpendicular to the fence and this would create a problem. Then there is the answer someone else said he has only used the gauge a few times in six years. Then there are other ways to get there.

If you measure the distance from the bearing to the "T"-slot then set the fence the same on each end, the miter gauge will be perpendicular to the fence if the miter gauge is set @ 90deg.

My fence is set on 2 rails at the ends of the table. There are tapes attached that read in metric and emperial units. I can set my fence to the tapes  and it is parallel to the "T"-slot..

Herb

15 hours ago, Stick486 said:

sled/miter gauge w/stops and no fence...

 

14 hours ago, lew said:

I find the slot very useful. Miter gauge and my sliding shaper jig.

When using a sled, is the workpiece not higher than the table? Wouldn't this be a problem? Or is the base of the sled so close to the bit that it wouldn't matter?

John