This last summer there was a discusion on another forum of making diamond wheels for the WorkSharp. Bill @Schnewj did a lot of research and cost analysis on making diamond wheels for the WorkSharp Sharpening System.

From that discussion I was able to get the sources for the materials thru Bills research. So I set out to make a set of diamond wheels. The idea behind all this was to make some MDF wheels and buy some magnetic sign material 6"discs with PSA backing. Then drill a hole in the discs and peel the cover off and stick them o the MDF wheels. He also found a source in Los Angeles that sold lapidary steel diamond discs for the lapidary trade that were 6" in diameter. So you see where this is going.

I will show you how I made the wooden discs and mounted the mag disc them the diamond disc.

Herb

 

 

 

Did I mention that the diamonds when on both sides of the MDF

 

Then while I was at it I made a stropping disc out of leather,the smooth side out on one side then the rough side out on the other side of the disc.

Herb

 

more major premium from Herb Dadio...

 

 

Nice writeup and pics...makes for a great tutorial on how to make your own...thanks...

Great job & pictorial process Herb. Don't have a Worksharp (yet) but has given me some great ideas. Thanks to you & Bill. Well done.

Edited October 21, 20169 yr by Grandpadave52

Awesome Job!! I do not have a work sharp yet either, but that has also given me some ideas. Thank you for sharing

I like that Herb.  What is the purpose of the magnetic pad and what is the source of the diamond discs?  I don't have a Worksharp.  Is it high speed?  I am thinking I might adapt something else with your ideas.  Thanks.

7 hours ago, HandyDan said:

I like that Herb.  What is the purpose of the magnetic pad and what is the source of the diamond discs?  I don't have a Worksharp.  Is it high speed?  I am thinking I might adapt something else with your ideas.  Thanks.

 

Dan the magnetic pads are to stick the steel diamond discs to the MDF wheel. I could have made only one MDF wheel and swapped diamond discs as needed, but since they are so easy to make I made several so I could have diamond discs mounted ready to go without fussing with removing them and replacing them. Yes the WorkSharp turns rather slow, not sure of the RPMs but it doesn't burn the tools.

http://www.magnetking.com/store/peel-n-stick/peel-n-stick-outdoor-magnet/circle-1872/medium-thickness-1884

 

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Diamond-Flat-Lap-Disk-60-80-120-180-260-360-600-1200-3000-grits/222286183550?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39855%26meid%3Dfd6d0e7b83084899990ae419e9f84c54%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26s

I can't believe how inexpensive the diamond disks are. I looked at the ebay listing, I thought they would go for quite a bit more than that.

Thanks Herb for the links. I assume you use the diamond plates dry since your backer disc is MDF and no provision on the WS for water. Any problems using them dry? Do you clean after use with water or some other method?

8 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Thanks Herb for the links. I assume you use the diamond plates dry since your backer disc is MDF and no provision on the WS for water. Any problems using them dry? Do you clean after use with water or some other method?

 No water, you don't need cooling, When sharpening chisels you insert the chisel UNDER the disc and all the residue is whist away, it looks like fine steel wool . When you use the top side to sharpen, I cannot remember what happens to the tailings, but I didn't use any coolant there either.

I forgot to mention that when stropping I use the top side only and use the green diamond stick and the rough leather side ,then turn the disc over and use the smooth leather side to polish with no abrasive. comes out mirror finish.

I have tried the white diamond stick and think the green does better.

The drill doctor doesn't use coolant either and the diamond wheel doesn't load up.

 

I did get an 80g and 100g disc in case I got an old chisel that needed to be put back in shape before sharpening , I wouldn't have to use the grinder and turn it blue.

 

Herb

30 minutes ago, Chips N Dust said:

I can't believe how inexpensive the diamond disks are. I looked at the ebay listing, I thought they would go for quite a bit more than that.

Campared to these Kelly, I think they are a good buy https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/Magna-Disc-C9.aspx

thanks to Bill's  @Schnewj's research

 

Herb

9 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Is it high speed?

Dan, From Work Sharps site regarding speed on the WS3000 (I don't think they offer the 2000 any longer):

"The Work Sharp 3000 Woodworking Tool Sharpener uses a high torque 1/5 hp motor and produces a maximum wheel speed of 580 RPM"

Work Sharp 3000

Thanks Herb for creating this thread and all your responses...very informative and helpful. Enjoying it thoroughly and learning lots.

I do have the WorkSharp,. The speed is 580 RPM. I've found it to be a great tool for sharpening my chisels. I used the Scary Sharp method for sharpening in the past. The WorkSharp is definitely a great time saver. 

Herb, You always amaze me with your ideas, and resourcefulness,  to turn them into reality.  Great tutorial !

4 hours ago, Dadio said:

 

Dan the magnetic pads are to stick the steel diamond discs to the MDF wheel. I could have made only one MDF wheel and swapped diamond discs as needed, but since they are so easy to make I made several so I could have diamond discs mounted ready to go without fussing with removing them and replacing them. Yes the WorkSharp turns rather slow, not sure of the RPMs but it doesn't burn the tools.

http://www.magnetking.com/store/peel-n-stick/peel-n-stick-outdoor-magnet/circle-1872/medium-thickness-1884

 

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Diamond-Flat-Lap-Disk-60-80-120-180-260-360-600-1200-3000-grits/222286183550?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39855%26meid%3Dfd6d0e7b83084899990ae419e9f84c54%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26s

 

Cool beaners Dadio!  Thank you for the information.  I like this idea.  Do the diamond discs stick to the magnet without using any adhesive?

Edited October 22, 20169 yr by HandyDan

57 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

 

Cool beaners Dadio!  Thank you for the information.  I like this idea.  Do the diamond discs stick to the magnet without using any adhesive?

Yup, and they stick goooood. I have been toying with the idea of putting one of my stationary bench top Belt/Disc sander. I wonder how 80 grit diamond sands wood. Anybody know?

Herb

Guess I missed this post. Great post on Making the MDF Discs, Herb.

 

Just a few  thoughts...

 

* First If anyone is interested in the links for the materials Herb posted them above. If you want to buy the plates directly from the vendor just send him an email from the ebay sight or PM me for his contact info.

 

* Herb used MDF, I ordered a couple of extra glass platens. Herb uses both sides I just used one side. Now for some caveats; I have a stand built to hold,(see attached photo) to store my discs, tools and materials. In addition, it provides a flat top platform using the top of the platens for wider blades that will not fit underneath. Herb found that he needed a longer retaining nut due to the added thickness of the assembly. I found that due to the added thickness of the magnetic material and the plate, that, the platens were no longer flush with the top of my stand. They were slightly above the top of the stand platform. Not an issue as the tool height is adjustable, but using the normal set-up (sandpaper discs) requires a releveling of the tool.

 

* The diamond lapidary plates work great and will far outlast 6" PSA discs.

 

* If you just want one or two diamond plates order off of eBay. The price includes the shipping. If you are order five or more plates and the shipping is cheaper if you order directly from David. He ships in a flat rate USPS box. Cost per unit is much lower this way.

 

* I found that the higher grit plates (example: 3000 grit) (when used in the normal configuration of sharpening from underneath) tends to wear away the surface in a groove pattern. Probably no different then a sandpaper disc, but once this occurs a "bald spot" forms. The plates are still fine for use on the top where you can use the whole surface of the plate. The courser grits are fantastic for this system.

 

Hope this info helps...

 

 

 

 

Edited November 21, 20169 yr by schnewj

@

schnewj

 

 

You brought out some good points,Bill. I experienced the same with the 3000 grit disc. Don't know if it has any life left when used underneath, I ruined a 600 grit I think trying to sharpen a solid carbide tool bit. (A turning tool replacement tip) on the top side.

I am going to copy your tool stand design too. I bought the Tool Sharp wide tool guide top extension for the top,and my opinion of it is it is a waste of money, I can' for the life of me get it to set up level with the disc so a sharpening guide can be rolled on it for sharpening wide plane blades.I like the way you set up yours with the leveling feet on the Work Sharp.

 

Is that dowel on the top used for guiding the hole of the disc accurate alignment when changing discs?

Herb

The dowel is a rod that goes through the finger pulls to keep the shelves from falling out when I move it around. In addition, I used a rare earth magnet on the drawer to keep it from doing the same. If you look real close you can see it in the upper right corner of the drawer.

 

Not a great photo, but it gives you the idea.

Edited November 23, 20169 yr by schnewj