September 23, 20169 yr Popular Post Are they segmented? I thought of doing segmented ornaments for a while but really didn't like the idea of cutting the little segments and gluing them together. Seemed like a lot of work. I came up with a way to do inlay which seems easier or maybe it is just because its my way. I started out with making a jig to run the pieces through the saw. There are two side pieces with a two inch spacer block between. I stuck the side pieces together and drilled a .25 inch hole 1.50 inches from the end and 1.25 inches up from the bottom. In the picture the block between the center spacer block and the bolt was to ensure accuracy while gluing and was removed once glue was dry. It is 1.50 inches square. I drew lines down from the hole to help align the jig with the slot in the cross cut sled. The bolt is a carriage bolt with the head ground down to a .50 inch diameter. It is set in a counter sunk hole so the jig sits flush with the sled fence I took a 2.50 inch square piece of plexiglass, found center drilled and threaded it for a .25-20 thread. When threading holes in smaller pieces like this I chuck up the tap and bring the quill down and lock it from going back up. I put a rod through the slot where the wedge can be driven in to remove the chuck and tapered shaft to keep it from spinning. I then use the table crank to raise the piece up to the tap and turn the piece while I am raising it to start the tap. I have a screw center with .25-20 thread so I put it in the lathe and screwed the plexiglass to it. I set the tool rest at center and used the indexing feature to scratch marks into it at 60 degree increments. I cut blocks to use and drilled the centers. I mounted them to the lathe and turned them round. I then screwed them to the plexiglass base and marked the indexes. The stock can be the full two inches of the jig of smaller and add spacer to take up space. I put a mark on the jig to line up each index mark but put it off to the side or the marks get cut off when run through the saw. I did end up cutting the nut side of the jig to 3/8 thick to give it some flex and hold the cylinder tight as it goes through the saw. Here is a completed cylinder. Then cut some inlay to fit the saw slots and glue them in. Mount them and turn them whatever shape you desire. Make some finials for them and there they are. Some of you may have seen this. This is in the tutorial section at William Young's Woodworking Friends site and I had posted it at Wood too. I copied and pasted it here for those who missed it to see.
September 23, 20169 yr I remember that from the WOOD forum , I thought it was a great technique then and that hasn't changed a bit. Thanks for sharing it here. Steve
September 23, 20169 yr That is awesome - I have a project I want to build that will have sort of a "paddle wheel" and I have been scratching my head trying to figure out how to cut the slot for the 12 paddles. I will have to remember this post!
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