The wood still has room to move as much as a figure 8 for expansion/contraction and it can be hidden.

 

Also, it's alot quicker.

Don't quite agree, Mike.

Maybe John2 will give his opines.

Larry

We talked about that this week. I am suppose to have a week off at the end of the month and it will be top of the list. Still designing.

Ron Dudelston said:

So, Dorothy wants to know if mama's kitchen table in the queue or has she figured out what she wants?

 What kind of finish?

I know Gary, I hope not, but it is highly possible.

Gary Heltemes said:

John.........you know what the cry'n a**ed shame will be???? The owners of this beautiful table will cover that gorgous (sp) top with a doilly (again,,sp) or some sort of covering to protect it.

Dan, it is not me wanting the wood to move, it is a characteristic of wood. Solid wood is going to always move so you have to allow for the wood to be able to move. Should you fasten the top down in such a way that it could not move it would cause it to split or crack. As the moisture in your house changes, so the wood changes also and using something like the figure 8's of other fasteners that let it move will prevent it from splitting or cracking.

 

You questions is a great question and there has been much discussion at various times on woodworking forums about how much wood will move.

 

Thanks for the question.

I answered before I read Larry's answer.

 

He gave lots of really good information.

 

Thanks Larry.

 

 

Dan Shuflin said:

John

Ok, one last dumb question. Why would you want the wood to move? I hope you don't mind all the questions, I am a real newbie and just want to learn.

 

Dan

Mike I would certainly have to defer to someone with a lot more experience than me. Unless the holes were elongated it appears it would hold it tight and keep it from moving. I have never attached a top that way, so I am not sure.

dragon1 said:

The wood still has room to move as much as a figure 8 for expansion/contraction and it can be hidden.

 

Also, it's alot quicker.

So, I have seen drawers made of solid wood. What keeps them from splitting?

What will happen sometimes with solid drawers is they will swell and stick. I have a cherry bedroom suite with solid drawers. We had it in storage once, when we picked it up and took it home, the drawers wouldn't open for about a day until they acclimated to the room surroundings.

 

If the bottom was solid, then you would make sure it is just floating in the dado which would allow it to move.

Thanks John for answering my newbie questions. You guys are awesome. I am learning so much by just reading and asking questions.

Dan

Dan, we are glad you are jumping in and taking part. Ask away, that is what we are all here for. We all share with each other, that is how we all learn.

Dan..  When I design drawers, I like to cut grooves in the side panels that ride on their male counterparts that are attached to a drawer frame.  That way, you can design in some latitude so the drawers will float without binding.

If this is not clear, I will draw up an isometric view and post it here.

Larry

Dan Shuflin said:

So, I have seen drawers made of solid wood. What keeps them from splitting?

John2..

Your table is a prime candidate for a project that can be "pre-finished."  That way, your intened finish will be totally free from variances in stain coloration and free from "stain pooling."  And then, you can rub out the finish ahead of time like I describe in in my latest Finishing Blog.

I think I have a Blog about doing it. somewhere.  I'll look.

Larry

Hey John...what is the finish going to be??? Have you gotten that far yet?

 

-Ace-

Larry

You lost me there. A simple drawing might help.

Thanks

Larry Jenkins said:

Dan..  When I design drawers, I like to cut grooves in the side panels that ride on their male counterparts that are attached to a drawer frame.  That way, you can design in some latitude so the drawers will float without binding.

If this is not clear, I will draw up an isometric view and post it here.

Larry

Dan Shuflin said:

So, I have seen drawers made of solid wood. What keeps them from splitting?

Here it is Dan..  Just got it done.

This is my favorite way to suspend drawers in a cabinet to prevent binding as the wood "moves."

Larry

 

 

 

John2..

We talked earlier about pre-finishing.  Here's an image of a coffee table I designed and built for a customer.

All parts were pre-finished before final assembly.

I'm looking for an older article I wrote about how to do this.  If I can't find it, I'll re-write it and post it here.

Larry

 

Thanks Larry, makes sense now.

Dan

Just very happy to help. Dan..

Should you have amy more questions about woodworking methods, terms or supplies, just ask.

There is a lot of great members willing to share here on TPW..

Larry

Just did a desk with in half round (6 ft. diameter) with a base simular to your table construction (except framing apron and legs were half round shape to follow contour of outside edge of desk) and used pocket screws for all of it.

 

The biggest challenga was to make sure I had the Kreg jig set right and the right screws so there was no chance of the screw going out through the surface.

 

The pocket screws and apron allow the top to move as they will be moving maybe 1/4 inch between full moisture and fully dry.

 

I also used the pocket holes to attach apron to legs.

That is interesting Mike. I want to learn more about that. It just seems, and I am not doubting you, that since the pocket creates such a tight joint, it wouldn't alowl for the movement. I know I am missing something there.

 

Hey I am always looking to learn a new trick. I may have to try it on a small table and see how it does as an experiment.