yes sir, you got it,, while I know you understand using stains and dyes as a glaze, do it on top of the first coat of endurovar,  just let it dry good, instead of using shellac as the glaze sealer, 

Ace HoleInOne said:

Charles...the comment  "up to a 1 pound cut of shellac" and your telephone conversation with Rob. And for those who are trying to learn how all those stuff works.

 

Is it fair to say, only (1) one coat of a  (1) one pound cut of shellac is permissible, under the Enduro-Var, so not to over seal?

 

Meaning (2) two coats of a (1) one pound cut is probably not recommended and could over seal?

 

-Ace-

Is there a limit to how thick the total coatings can be? I know with solvent , they say 5 mils dry is as thick as you should go. If I lock color in between coats of endurovar, will I run into adhesion problems?

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Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com

the verdict is out Bob, both stains and dyes have solvents that could become issues with adhesion, I would avoid it if possible, if toning and layering is needed try some of GF's High Perfomance , and if more durability is required use the crosslinker additive, HP is my standard go to finish these days,

I remember contacting General Finishes about this very subject when Enduro Var came out. As I recall, you can use Enduro-Var to glaze with. There can be a lot of what "ifs" with glazes, since some guys/gals tend to go heavy some go light with glazes. If you put the glaze on real heavy, and don’t give it enough time to dry, the glaze could still be “out gassing†when you put the top-coat on. This “might†cause an adhesion problem.

If you just follow the directions and work within a mfg’s system you’ll be fine. It’s when you’re rushing the job or you using 2 or 3 mfg’s products, is usually when problems happen.

As to mil thickness.  3 mil wet, as an “average “ thickness, then figure from 2 to 4 coats. It’s in the tech data sheet.

-Ace-

Bob Kloes said:

Is there a limit to how thick the total coatings can be? I know with solvent , they say 5 mils dry is as thick as you should go. If I lock color in between coats of endurovar, will I run into adhesion problems?

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Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com

I agree with Mr. Morris. I am an oil finisher unless the project is commision and calls for something else. I love tung-oil and walnut-oil. For small boxes and sometimes drawers, I will add some scent to the oil. Vanilla or jasmine is nice.

I like a modified Maloof finish. BLO, Mineral spirits and poly in equal parts. Depending on the intended use of the item, I may add a couple coats of Marine Varnish...Man-O-War.

I do like oil finishes, but I like "substantual oils:, like I stated in a previous post, actually going to use an oil finish on this one http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2011/06/30/secretary-pigeon-holes-almost-done/

 

if I can I will try to tag ya along,,, might do it as a blog, ,  it will be over a waterbased dye,

My favorite finish is a recipe I got from a wooden toy maker.  It's USP grade mineral oil and beeswax.  Works great for boxes, bowls, toys, etc.  Non-toxic and food safe.  After being heated up, it's a nice soft paste which is easily applied by wiping on, letting it set for a few minutes, and wiping off.   I usually apply multiple layers. 

 

SQ

 

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It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.