Thanks Will, I could go to their site and read about it, but that wouldn't do our folks any good here, would you happen to know the MC that could possibly trigger the brake?


Will Sampson said:

John, the SawStop folks freely admit that wet wood will trigger the saw brake. The saw has a bypass system. If you are cutting pressure treated wood or green wood, it is recommended that you activate the bypass. This is also the case with conductive materials such as metallic laminates. I've used the bypass when cutting some PT lumber. I've never had a false activation of the brake, although I've encountered many shops that have regularly experienced non-safety issue brake activations. Almost always it's a case of somebody cutting something conductive without activating the brake bypass.

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Thanks Larry, but I do wish that American Flag on the cabinet actually meant it was Made in America! It is a great saw though! I really wanted the biggest saw I could afford at the time. I worked in a carpenter maintenance shop for about 7 years, and we had a humongous Delta old school table saw. It was a 7hp 14" with a bies fence. No guard, never had a kick back because it was so powerful. I loved that ol saw. So the closed I could get was this Grizz in my price range. Big and massive, big table too. But someday I'd love to go old American or like Jack ol English.


Larry Buskirk said:

Ok John, The ribbings over Nice saw!

Regards,

Larry
John Morris said:

Alright Larry, I got a 12" Girzzly with a 5hp engine. I've had it for about 10 years and it's appears to be a great saw. I found an overarm Beismeyer on Ebay shortly after I bought my TS and installed. I love the overarm guards, they flip out of the way for tall cuts or thin rips, and they are completely un-intrusive. I have a Bies 52" fence along with it. I would like to sell it someday though, and apply the monies to an older American saw, not that there is anything wrong with this saw, but I just like the looks of Oliver Machinery, and after seeing you guys post your old machinery here, I am really biting at the bit to do this. I have enjoyed all your Table Saw postings this last two days.

There is something about a good table saw, or any table saw for that matter, it is the center of the shop, we tend to spend more money on that purchase than any other in our shop. We are picky, and we are critical of our Table Saws. They also become an extension of us. I really don't feel comfortable on anyone else's saw, though I have used others, there is still that pucker factor working on a strange TS. You get to know the in's and out's of your own TS. And you get to know the faults and characteristics of your own saw. I would say more then any other machine in the shop, the TS is the most personal.

John Morris

The Patriot Woodworker

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

No, I don't know the official MC number or if they even publish one. I've cut wood up to 16% MC with no problems. I just use good judgment. Anything really questionable, I activate the bypass. This points to one of the hidden safety features, if you will, of the saw. Simply because it has this safety brake contraption, it makes you think about safety. You are reminded every time you power up the saw and have to wait a few moments for the brake system to arm itself before you can turn on the motor. (This is only a once a day or once a session delay; once the brake system is on you can turn the motor on and off instantly at will.)

John Morris said:

Thanks Will, I could go to their site and read about it, but that wouldn't do our folks any good here, would you happen to know the MC that could possibly trigger the brake?

Will Sampson said:

John, the SawStop folks freely admit that wet wood will trigger the saw brake. The saw has a bypass system. If you are cutting pressure treated wood or green wood, it is recommended that you activate the bypass. This is also the case with conductive materials such as metallic laminates. I've used the bypass when cutting some PT lumber. I've never had a false activation of the brake, although I've encountered many shops that have regularly experienced non-safety issue brake activations. Almost always it's a case of somebody cutting something conductive without activating the brake bypass.

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

I have a 1987 Delta Unisaw with the 52" UniFence.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

I checked the SawStop Quick Start Guide (an abbreviated manual that magnetically adheres to the saw cabinet for convenience -- nice feature). It doesn't list an MC number, but it notes a simple testing procedure for conductive materials. You turn on the saw in Bypass Mode and carefully make a few cuts with the material. If the red light on the control panel flashes, the material is conductive.

Will Sampson said:

No, I don't know the official MC number or if they even publish one. I've cut wood up to 16% MC with no problems. I just use good judgment. Anything really questionable, I activate the bypass. This points to one of the hidden safety features, if you will, of the saw. Simply because it has this safety brake contraption, it makes you think about safety. You are reminded every time you power up the saw and have to wait a few moments for the brake system to arm itself before you can turn on the motor. (This is only a once a day or once a session delay; once the brake system is on you can turn the motor on and off instantly at will.)

John Morris said:

Thanks Will, I could go to their site and read about it, but that wouldn't do our folks any good here, would you happen to know the MC that could possibly trigger the brake?

Will Sampson said:

John, the SawStop folks freely admit that wet wood will trigger the saw brake. The saw has a bypass system. If you are cutting pressure treated wood or green wood, it is recommended that you activate the bypass. This is also the case with conductive materials such as metallic laminates. I've used the bypass when cutting some PT lumber. I've never had a false activation of the brake, although I've encountered many shops that have regularly experienced non-safety issue brake activations. Almost always it's a case of somebody cutting something conductive without activating the brake bypass.

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Now we are talking Will, that was one of the biggest concerns for me with the Sawstop, I just couldn't understand how we could take a chance by pushing material through if we didn't know what trips the bake. Those are brakes aren't cheap to replace. So the pre test is perfect, they did think of every thing it seems. Thanks Will


Will Sampson said:

I checked the SawStop Quick Start Guide (an abbreviated manual that magnetically adheres to the saw cabinet for convenience -- nice feature). It doesn't list an MC number, but it notes a simple testing procedure for conductive materials. You turn on the saw in Bypass Mode and carefully make a few cuts with the material. If the red light on the control panel flashes, the material is conductive.

Will Sampson said:

No, I don't know the official MC number or if they even publish one. I've cut wood up to 16% MC with no problems. I just use good judgment. Anything really questionable, I activate the bypass. This points to one of the hidden safety features, if you will, of the saw. Simply because it has this safety brake contraption, it makes you think about safety. You are reminded every time you power up the saw and have to wait a few moments for the brake system to arm itself before you can turn on the motor. (This is only a once a day or once a session delay; once the brake system is on you can turn the motor on and off instantly at will.)

John Morris said:

Thanks Will, I could go to their site and read about it, but that wouldn't do our folks any good here, would you happen to know the MC that could possibly trigger the brake?

Will Sampson said:

John, the SawStop folks freely admit that wet wood will trigger the saw brake. The saw has a bypass system. If you are cutting pressure treated wood or green wood, it is recommended that you activate the bypass. This is also the case with conductive materials such as metallic laminates. I've used the bypass when cutting some PT lumber. I've never had a false activation of the brake, although I've encountered many shops that have regularly experienced non-safety issue brake activations. Almost always it's a case of somebody cutting something conductive without activating the brake bypass.

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

 

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

I have a 1990 PM 66 5hp 3ph with a 54" fence.

I just got my 1898 American WWM dual arbor USB all prettied up, back together and running great.

 

I am getting ready to work on my 1883 Herbert Baker dual arbor USB.

 

I also have a bosch contractor saw with about 1" of dust on it.

Mine is just a plain Delta Uni-saw with 52" rip capacity and the Uni-fence that's about 4 years old. The only things I don't like about mine is the dust collection and I wished I'd bought a narrower rip capacity because of the smaller footprint in my garage. Other than that it works great, cuts true and is very dependable, and I wouldn't trade the uni-fence for the Beismier for any amount of money. I adjusted the fence when I fist assembled the saw and I haven't had to adjust it since, I do check it for alignment once a week but no adjustments needed.

 

I guess I can say I use to have Delta model # TS200LS till the motor went out a couple weeks ago.  The saw is just a bench saw with it own legs.  Sort of like contractor saw.  Had it about 9 years and no I did not buy it.  Got it as Christmas present from my wife. She it because I was looking to buy one but I was looking for full size.  This saw was a good saw as for doing small projects but it had issues in working with larger pieces.  I guess if it had a bigger table surface and the motor shaft was long enough to do 3/4 inch dadoes I would attempted more furniture projects than what I did.   Currently I'm looking to get another table saw and no I'm not getting another bench size.  Been telling my wife if she wants me to make furniture for the house I'll got to have at least full size contractor saw but hoping for a cabinet saw. Decision, decision, decision.

 

Wayne E

 

 

A Frankensaw.   Was an Emerson/sears number back in the 80s(new), when the trunion went bad (split) I got a second-hand one from a construction company I was working for.   $20 for a whole saw, vs $80 for one part.   Used parts from both saws to make a better, larger saw.  

 

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'and may the road raise up to meet ye'