October 16, 201114 yr Wow Arthur, Thats quite a collection of table saws, some very cool old school machines there. Unfortunatly for me I have to limit myself to one, and a small one at that. I like what you've got some real classic machines. LarryArthur said: I've owned a few tablesaws over the years. The list has gotten somewhat smaller. Here's what I have now: Â 1 American Sawmill Machiney cabinet saw 1 Wadkin PP sliding tablesaw 1 Robinson ETE Slider 1 Whitney No. 77 Slider 1 Whitney No. 177 Slider 2 Tannewitz XJS sliders 2 Tannewitz XJ 1 Tannewitz U 3 Oliver 260 sliders 1 Oliver 88 Slider 1 Oliver 88 cabinet saw 1 Wadkin PK variety saw 2 Wadkin PK sliders 14 Whitney No. 77 Variety saws 31 Whitney No. 177 Variety saws This is what I have from memory. I'm sure I've forgotten some of them. My favorite saws are the Whitney's and the Wadkins. They're well built and a joy use. They also have beautiful lines. I also have a bunch of modern contractor type saws. I know there's at least one Bosch and one Ryobi. Also a couple of old Unisaws.
October 16, 201114 yr Richard, I'm one of those that just tries to make due with what I have. So next up on my restoration list is the one I have.Richard McComas said: Â Some guys just make do with what they have. John Morris said: Is that all you got Arthur??? Â John Morris The Patriot Woodworker
October 16, 201114 yr Ok here it is my clunker from the rust belt, and after five years in a damp basement it has plenty of rust to be cleaned up. It's my 1939-1940 Delta 1160 Tilt Top 10" Table Saw.  Oh and it does have a blade guard. This one should be fun, as I like turning one mans junk into one of my treasures. Just crazy I guess. So this will be number two in the restoration of my Heavy Metal collection. Oh and it still appears we're waiting for John to show us hiscome onI had to take this apart haul it up put it back together, take it apart and put it away Just ribbing you John! Hey somebody has too Later, Larry
October 16, 201114 yr Author Alright Larry, I got a 12" Girzzly with a 5hp engine. I've had it for about 10 years and it's appears to be a great saw. I found an overarm Beismeyer on Ebay shortly after I bought my TS and installed. I love the overarm guards, they flip out of the way for tall cuts or thin rips, and they are completely un-intrusive. I have a Bies 52" fence along with it. I would like to sell it someday though, and apply the monies to an older American saw, not that there is anything wrong with this saw, but I just like the looks of Oliver Machinery, and after seeing you guys post your old machinery here, I am really biting at the bit to do this. I have enjoyed all your Table Saw postings this last two days. There is something about a good table saw, or any table saw for that matter, it is the center of the shop, we tend to spend more money on that purchase than any other in our shop. We are picky, and we are critical of our Table Saws. They also become an extension of us. I really don't feel comfortable on anyone else's saw, though I have used others, there is still that pucker factor working on a strange TS. You get to know the in's and out's of your own TS. And you get to know the faults and characteristics of your own saw. I would say more then any other machine in the shop, the TS is the most personal. Â John Morris The Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr Arthur I am sure you have miss some others Be a new list when the container from England lands in NJ  Ok what have i for a Table saw. 14" Poitras(made in Canada) all cast 5'' depth of cut. just a good old rip saw. My good old General 350 10" saw And when there is the Wadkin PK this most beautiful 18"saw in the world ! Hold onto your hats boys made a tenoning jig for the cast fence jack English machines
October 17, 201114 yr Author My goodness, what a saw Jack!!!! That is one of the most incredible machines I have ever seen!!! Absolutely breath taking sir. John MorrisThe Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr Jack,        If I leave one of my PKs' at your place for awhile, will she come home looking like yours? -Arthur
October 17, 201114 yr Author now your thinking Arthur! Not that you never did think, but I was just sayin, uh, yeah, well now your thinking! What da ya say Jack? Do you have like a magic box you set those things in and push some buttons? And voila!Arthur said: Jack,         If I leave one of my PKs' at your place for awhile, will she come home looking like yours?  -Arthur  John MorrisThe Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr Larry, I'll agree with you that a saw that is properly tuned is going to be safer than one that isn't. All us should be working with a saw that is tuned up right, and I'll admit that I haven't gone over mine in a long time and it could probably use some tune up work. However, if you are saying that just a tune up makes it safe enough that you don't need guards I think that you are trying to fool yourself. Most of us don't use the guards, probably because they are inconvenient and in the way, and we can see better without them. And most of us will get away with it and not have an issue. Accidents do happen, whether it be an undectected knot or nail, or just a wandering mind for a second. It's going to be a lot harder to get your finger into the blade if you have to get it past the guard first. The guard is put there with good intentions, not necessarily with our convenience in mind. I probably won't be putting mine back on soon, but I know that I probably should. And I haven't seen Norm using his guard either. I was watching a video of him just the other night and that did get my attention, that he wasn't using the guard. I guess he works the way the most of us do. Larry Jenkins said:Roy..I personally think that if you have your saw tuned up right (to prevent kick back) and use the proper ripping methods to ensure safety, blade guards are not needed.Did you ever see one on Norm's Unisaw?LarryÂ
October 17, 201114 yr That's one fine saw. They don't mak'em like that anymore and that's a shame. tool613 said: Arthur I am sure you have miss some others Be a new list when the container from England lands in NJ  Ok what have i for a Table saw. 14" Poitras(made in Canada) all cast 5'' depth of cut. just a good old rip saw. My good old General 350 10" saw And when there is the Wadkin PK this most beautiful 18"saw in the world ! Hold onto your hats boys made a tenoning jig for the cast fence jack English machines
October 17, 201114 yr Author Roy, you raise valid points. But whenever I ask if anyone with those same concerns if they've ever used an overarm guard, they answer is always, and I mean always, no. I have been a huge advocate for the overarm guards, they are not in your way at all, and they can easily be pushed to the side for difficult cuts where having any guard in place would be more dangerous then to not have it. I would really like to encourage all to check the overarms out, they are the cats meow. Roy Boomershine said:Larry, I'll agree with you that a saw that is properly tuned is going to be safer than one that isn't. All us should be working with a saw that is tuned up right, and I'll admit that I haven't gone over mine in a long time and it could probably use some tune up work. However, if you are saying that just a tune up makes it safe enough that you don't need guards I think that you are trying to fool yourself. Most of us don't use the guards, probably because they are inconvenient and in the way, and we can see better without them. And most of us will get away with it and not have an issue. Accidents do happen, whether it be an undectected knot or nail, or just a wandering mind for a second. It's going to be a lot harder to get your finger into the blade if you have to get it past the guard first. The guard is put there with good intentions, not necessarily with our convenience in mind. I probably won't be putting mine back on soon, but I know that I probably should. And I haven't seen Norm using his guard either. I was watching a video of him just the other night and that did get my attention, that he wasn't using the guard. I guess he works the way the most of us do. Larry Jenkins said:Roy..I personally think that if you have your saw tuned up right (to prevent kick back) and use the proper ripping methods to ensure safety, blade guards are not needed.Did you ever see one on Norm's Unisaw?Larry  John Morris The Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr  One of my first and favorite saws was a little 1950s 8 inch Craftsman. It's one of the quietest and smoothest running saws I have owned. A 1965 Unisaw and my baby, a 1956 Oliver 270 Also a very smooth running machine. A pic of it passing the penny, nickel, dime and quarter test. Tucked away in the rathole ready for restoration are a couple of Delta 34-160s and hiding in the garage is a Ridgid contractors saw.
October 17, 201114 yr John, I've never used an overarm, but I think I could like it. It would get completely out of the way easily so need to do any unhooking, and you'd have it back in just a second when you wanted it. Part of my problem is probably that I taught shop in high school, and there you want every protection you can get, if nothing more than to cover your butt in case one of those clever little guys trys something you'd never thought of before. Whenever I cut I try to push the piece well past the blade with my right hand and keep an eye on the blade as I reach around with my left to get the piece in the case of where I'm doing multiples. I know it would be safer to turn it off and wait for the spin to stop before I reached, but that takes too much time. I'm always aware of the potential when I'm reaching around, and I'm always asking myself if that is really a good idea. But as most probably do, I do it anyway. If the guard were on it would ensure me that I'm not going to contact anything still spinning.Â
October 17, 201114 yr I've got a SawStop Contractor's Saw with 50" fence. And no, the emergency brake hasn't fired yet except when I fired it on purpose with a hot dog just like the demo to test the system when I first got the saw. Even without the brake feature, it's a really nice saw, lots better than the Rockwell-Delta Contractor's Saw it replaced.
October 17, 201114 yr Author Hey Will, have you pushed wood with a higher then usual MC through it? I have heard that will trigger it. And I have also heard they are excellent saws.Will Sampson said:I've got a SawStop Contractor's Saw with 50" fence. And no, the emergency brake hasn't fired yet except when I fired it on purpose with a hot dog just like the demo to test the system when I first got the saw. Even without the brake feature, it's a really nice saw, lots better than the Rockwell-Delta Contractor's Saw it replaced. John MorrisThe Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr John, the SawStop folks freely admit that wet wood will trigger the saw brake. The saw has a bypass system. If you are cutting pressure treated wood or green wood, it is recommended that you activate the bypass. This is also the case with conductive materials such as metallic laminates. I've used the bypass when cutting some PT lumber. I've never had a false activation of the brake, although I've encountered many shops that have regularly experienced non-safety issue brake activations. Almost always it's a case of somebody cutting something conductive without activating the brake bypass.
October 17, 201114 yr Ok John, The ribbings over Nice saw! Regards, LarryJohn Morris said: Alright Larry, I got a 12" Girzzly with a 5hp engine. I've had it for about 10 years and it's appears to be a great saw. I found an overarm Beismeyer on Ebay shortly after I bought my TS and installed. I love the overarm guards, they flip out of the way for tall cuts or thin rips, and they are completely un-intrusive. I have a Bies 52" fence along with it. I would like to sell it someday though, and apply the monies to an older American saw, not that there is anything wrong with this saw, but I just like the looks of Oliver Machinery, and after seeing you guys post your old machinery here, I am really biting at the bit to do this. I have enjoyed all your Table Saw postings this last two days. There is something about a good table saw, or any table saw for that matter, it is the center of the shop, we tend to spend more money on that purchase than any other in our shop. We are picky, and we are critical of our Table Saws. They also become an extension of us. I really don't feel comfortable on anyone else's saw, though I have used others, there is still that pucker factor working on a strange TS. You get to know the in's and out's of your own TS. And you get to know the faults and characteristics of your own saw. I would say more then any other machine in the shop, the TS is the most personal.  John Morris The Patriot Woodworker
October 17, 201114 yr Wow Jack, I didn't take your advice, and lost my hat. Simply another of your beauties, I'm still wiping the drool out of my beard. I hope my old tilty turns out half as nice! Only time will tell. I know it's not even in the same class as the other saws I've seen so far, but it is what I have. I've got most of the attachments for it so that's in my favor, got them before the prices went to the stratosphere. But with a small shop it works for me. Not sure if I'll leave it on the single stand, or put it back on the combo, with the jointer thats still in basement. Regards, Larrytool613 said: Arthur I am sure you have miss some others Be a new list when the container from England lands in NJ  Ok what have i for a Table saw. 14" Poitras(made in Canada) all cast 5'' depth of cut. just a good old rip saw. My good old General 350 10" saw And when there is the Wadkin PK this most beautiful 18"saw in the world ! Hold onto your hats boys made a tenoning jig for the cast fence jack English machines
October 18, 201114 yr A 1950's contractor style Craftsman. I added a Biesemeyer fence that I found on a clearence table at Lowes a few years ago
October 19, 201114 yr Author RMK, I like the older 50 style Craftsman saws, they have that diamond pattern chrome piece on the body that give's it style, good lines too. I have always wanted one.RMK said:A 1950's contractor style Craftsman. I added a Biesemeyer fence that I found on a clearence table at Lowes a few years ago John MorrisThe Patriot Woodworker
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