First and foremost I want to thank Ron for sending this saw to me or I wouldn't even have one.

 

Ok this is an old (probably 1980s model) Craftsman band saw 10"

It uses a 56 7/8" x1/4" or 1/8" blade I always use the 1/4" 6 tooth if I can get it.

 

It has some issues first matter was getting it to cut reasonably straight. That matter was basically solved by getting a 1/2"x 6" piece of Corian to use as a fence and cutting slower. Apparently I was being too aggressive in my cutting.

 

Now I am running into issues of blade breakage, usually about once or twice a month.

 

It tells you to tighten the blade to two clicks past getting the blade taught which I do, but that does seem a bit tight and I do have to fight it a bit to get it there.

 

 

Ok so that's the saw. This is the first time I have got pictures of the blade tracking and to me it looks fine, but a lot of times when I put the blade on it will ride on the forward part of the tire. I also admit that I don't know that much about the tires, to me they would nearly compare to slicks on a car.

 

Thanks

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Oh, the model number is 113.244501

 

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles, does you blade loose grip as it's cutting? In other words does is slip or stall?

 

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

There should be a tracking adjustment so that the blade runs in the center of the tire. You should have some deflection in the blade even when it is tight. If it is too tight, and you are trying to cut too fast or too much mass it will cause a blade to break. I am not sure I wouldn't go to a four tooth blade and make sure you are letting it carry the sawdust out. If it is piling up between the teeth it will make it harder on the blade to cut and cause it to get hotter which in turn will weaken it.

 

Can you get a picture of the other side of the saw?

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

It slips off the tires once in a while. So I put it back on then within a day or two usually the blade breaks

 

Yeah, there is a blade tension adjustment but honestly I know nothing about it, I'm not even sure I have the tool to adjust it, thats how little I know about it. If it slips off again I'll try to see about that.

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles, first thing you can do man, is clean the bandsaw tires, they have a healthy build up of grimed up sawdust, this could be part of the reason the blade slips and or falls off the wheel, this may not cure it completely, but we need to eliminate the threats one by one.

 

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

 

Ok that's the other side but I don't see a adjustment except for blade tension.

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Agreed, whats the best thing to clean the tires with?

 

 

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles,

 

You can use Dawn dish soap to clean the tires with. It should cut through the build up, and shouldn't hurt the tires.

Also check the wheels for wobble on the shafts when the blade is off.

Three wheelers are known for tracking issues.

I'm trying to locate a manual for it now. There is none listed at The Vintage Machinery website.

I do know that it was made by Emerson Electric for Sears. The 113 prefix of the model number tells me that.

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

The man comes to the table with wisdom again, Larry, where the heck do you pull this out of! "The 113 prefix of the model number tells me that."

 

What are you, a walking parts book for old machinery!!! LOL

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

John,

The Prefix numbers are listed under Sears-Craftsman on The Vintage Machinery website.

 

 

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222

 

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

LOL you guys are silly,

 

I'm not sure what you are seeing as far as buildup, but I only see a fine dusting on the tires.

 

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles,

 

You'll be surprised what comes off of them.

There is going to be a dried build up of sap pitch that will come off with a cleaning.

It gets tracked to the tires by the blade.

 

 

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles, did I send you a manual with that?

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Oh ok, that must be what the darker crud is, it's not a lot but its there.

 

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Actually yes you did Ron now that I think about it, but I am not sure that I've got the tool to adjust tracking.

 

I've got to get a toothpick case finished so I will be away for probably several hours.

Give me a call if you need to ask me anything or for any other reason.

 

 

Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

The picture showing the blade and wheel looks like it's tracking (now) correctly. The bottom of the gullets should be centered on the tire.

 

Don't know a whole bunch about 3 wheelers. My gut tells me that any adjustments are probably made at the middle wheel.

 

If you have steel blocks, adjust them to a dollar's thickness from the blade and just behind the gullet.

 

You might try ceramic or cool blocks that can be adjusted right up against the blade. 

 

If your blade wants to track off a straight line, you'll need to find what the angle is that it likes. Take a flat board 5"-6" wide and maybe 2' long and draw a straight line down the middle. Now follow the line free hand. Stop after a foot or so. Make sure the board stays in the same position and shut off the saw. The angle of the board relative to the blade is the "drift". It's at that angle you need to set your fence.

 

A blade with a drift, if forced to cut in opposition to the drift, will over heat and fail prematurely. Also, blades when heated expand and then wobble. Could be why it keeps coming off the wheels.

 

Try adjusting your blocks and correcting for the drift and see what happens.

 

Good luck my friend.

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Hey Charles, do you have an 1/8" Allen wrench?  That's what it takes to adjust the tracking.  Larry and I are chatting and from your pictures it looks like the upper guide block assembly (P/N 6 in the manual) isn't square with the table. If you have a square, make sure the guide rail is perpendicular with the table. Also, the instructions for adjusting the tracking is on page 11 of the manual and the blade guides.

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Charles, here is another great tip from Arthur Harpool, one of our Facebook friends.

 

GOOD TIP LINK

 

 

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk

Thanks Gene, One problem, I have no idea, what "blocks" you are talking about.

 

Ron I do indeed have a 1/8" Allen wrench, I'll have to pull out the manual tomorrow.

I can't do it tonight due to other things going on.

 

I have to try and get this case finished, I have tried 3 times now to get the tenon right on this case and it keeps turning too loose.

 

Thanks for the tips link John

Edited November 12, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk