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The Product Before beginning, it’s important to distinguish between a wax finish and a waxed finish. A wax finish is using wax as the only finishing product. A waxed finish is using a wax as a polish over another finish such as the ones we’ve already covered. Waxes are of different types Animal – beeswax Vegetable – for example, carnauba Mineral – paraffin (a petroleum product) Synthetic A wax product may (and often is) a combination of different kinds of waxes. To make it workable, it can be dissolved (softened) in a solvent to make it into a stick (solid), paste, or liquid. Most often the solvent is mineral spirits or naphtha. In some products (Briwax is one), the solvent is toluene that is a stronger solvent and may damage some finishes, but serves as a restorative wax when used as a polish. Years ago, wax was used because it was about the only finish available (and cheap) to a common craftsperson. Characteristics Wax, when used as a finish, is as closer than any finish to being no finish at all. Some waxes are tinted and can adjust the color of the wood. The main reasons to apply any finish are: · To beautify the wood · To protect it from damage and soiling · To provide a cleanable surface Wax mostly fails on the last two. I think waxes have limited use as a finish and the best application is something that is not handled or used as a work surface, for example, turned objects that sit on a shelf, picture frames, carvings, artwork, etc. You would not want to put this on an everyday dining table where a spilled glass of red wine or splash of spaghetti sauce will stain the underlying wood. Don’t confuse water beading up with water not penetrating. Waxes melt about 140-150 degrees (depending on type) Wax does not "feed and nourish the wood," it's dead. Pros: · Fast drying · Easily restored with minimal equipment and odor · Changes the color of wood very little (when a clear wax is used) Cons · Not very protective · Minimal resistance to heat, solvents, abrasion, soiling · Minimal resistance to liquid water and water vapor (unless put on very thick) Application Wax on / wax off. You can spray, brush, or rag on the liquid forms and rag on the paste forms. Let the solvent flash off a bit, then buff. If you are using a rag, you can add a chunk of paste wax to a cloth, wrap it in, and squeeze the wax through the fabric to apply. The best wax finish (and waxed finish) is just a few molecules thick. Left on too thick, it can look sloppy, smudge and smear, and attract dirt. You can repeat waxing and buffing as needed over time. If you are applying wax to a turned object, you can use the solid wax applied to the piece while it’s turning on the lathe. The friction melts the wax and gets it on the piece. Buff off the same way. Lubricant Wax is also useful either on raw wood or finished wood as a lubricant such as on drawer sides and runners. It does not need to be buffed off here. I rub on a stick of paraffin (sold as canning wax in the grocery store) and slide back and forth to burnish it in. Wax for cutting boards One good application for wax is as a finish for cutting boards. The normal recipe is to heat one part of wax to six or seven parts of mineral oil in a double boiler (not direct heat). Apply liberally to a cutting board surface, allow to cool and harden and scrape/wipe off the excess. Repeat as needed. Wax as a polish If you want to use wax as a polish, apply and buff off as much as you can, then a bit more. Left on too thick, it can smudge. You only need to do this every year or so, with just dusting in between. The wax will add a soft luster and provide some lubrication to reduce abrasion. In carved areas, you can use a toothbrush or shoe brush to buff out the wax. You can use a colored wax to highlight some of the details such as turnings or carvings. There is also another wax called “dusty wax” that is a waxed thinned to a liquid, then powdered pumice is added. Put on and wiped off, it adds a light gray/white accent to a piece--sort of an instant faux antique. One of my customers used to sell a lot of furniture with dusty wax on it. My wife always said it looked like “insufficient housecleaning.” To each his own, I suppose. Another use of wax is as a “finish the finish” Apply wax with 0000 steel wool after the last coat of finish is cured. Buff off to get a very smooth final finish. Wax will also help restore an old finish without needing to strip and refinish (1). Fixing Goofs Not much you can do wrong except apply to an inappropriate surface or leave too much on. You can remove (most of) the wax by wiping with rags moistened in mineral spirits of naphtha, using fresh rags and turning often. You probably won’t get it all, so do your best and seal with shellac if you want to top coat Once you use wax as a polish, avoid using other liquid polishes that might interact with it. Pick either wax or liquid polish and stick with it Further reading: (1) Using wax as a step in restoring/saving an old finish: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/cleaning-waxing-old-furniture/ http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/cleaning-waxing-old-furniture/
