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Found 2 results

  1. smitty10101

    Rust On My Table Saw---Again

    Here I go AGAIN!! First--about 3 months ago waxed TS ---2 coats--got rust anyway Then last week used paint thinner to remove the 2 coats. Cleaned it off. Applied 2 coats @ 90 degrees to each other to "insure" coverage. Buffed by hand--to lazy to get the buffer out. Got rust anyway again. This time it looks like a forearm print--- I must have leaned on the table. It's a pretty close simile of my right forearm. So what to do??? Strip it down again & re wax? Strip it down and shoot it with gloss lacquer? Just shoot it with something small made of lead?? 380 or 38 don't have a 357 but could borrow one! Environment: garage in South Carolina low country, non a/c'd, hot (90 degree plus), humid 80-90 percent. Wax: 1st time Butchers Bowling Alley paste wax, 2nd time Mothers California gold car wax (no silicone--per the can) Kicker: It's ONLY the TS that is rusting. NONE on my Jet jointer, Hitachi BS, or HF lathe. TS is a Delta. They all live within 5 feet of each other. Is it even possible that some cast iron will rust more than others? Has anyone used anything like lacquer or shellac to coat a TS top? Success rate? I'm open to any & all suggestions Friend in same development hasn't waxed in over 3 years and hasn't had rust Thks smitty
  2. Gary Hanscom

    Heavy rust removal

    I have a very old scythe the I believe my grandfather used in the 40's. the blade is heavily rusted/pitted and I would like to "restore" it a bit for my son-in-law's barn. What does everyone recommend as a good rust remover? I can grind it off but with the pitting I fear too much of the old metal would be removed. If I could get a majority off without grinding I feel it will retain more of its originality. Any thoughts? Thanks Gary
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