WHOA, Thank You, starting to make sense. THANK YOU LEW.

1 minute ago, Lost Oki said:

WHOA, Thank You, starting to make sense. THANK YOU LEW.

Keep me updated on the progress. Really interested on what's happening in side the ckts.

On 3/27/2026 at 4:57 PM, lew said:

Keep me updated on the progress. Really interested on what's happening in side the ckts.

Found a company that can test the motor for me. I just need to drive the 36 miles to drop it off. On the bright side, its on the way to an area (White River) that I have been wanting to fish. (I know, a little off topic). Hopefully Monday.

10 minutes ago, Lost Oki said:

Found a company that can test the motor for me.

Take the controller too. They can also test it.

2 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Take the controller too. They can also test it.

Thanks for the reminder, would have forgot it.

Took the motor and control board in for testing to WestArk elec in Springdale Arkansas. Motor is DC and is good. Control board, both old and new are bad. However, the test shop told me how to bypass the original control board and I found a controller they said would work on Amazon. I cannot say enough about the help I got from WestArk. Testing motor, then board (not their area of expertise to work on printed circuits). I was there approx 45 minutes and no charge.... Next step is to order new controller, then a complete blade holder and I should be in business. Will keep ya'll up to date. THANK YOU for all the help. Hit another estate sale on Saturday, thats a story for another time. A little off topic but do any of you have a shop smith and in need of a Beale 3 on lathe mandrel (hold 3 buffing wheels)

Edited April 6Apr 6 by Lost Oki

Sorry to hear that you got a bad control board but happy to read about WestArk's customer service. Don't find places like that anymore!

From an electronics standpoint, that circuit board shouldn't be too difficult to troubleshoot and repair. Hang on to both of them and maybe someone can get them repaired. From your experience, seems those boards must fail pretty often!

49 minutes ago, Lost Oki said:

I cannot say enough about the help I got from WestArk.

A positive review like this is one way. I agree with @lew that finding places like this is getting harder so really nice when you find one.

Sorry to hear the news about the circuit boards Don. I don't suppose the seller of the new one would take it back &/ or reimburse you? Great to hear the motor is OK though and you've found a work around. Can't beat the service from WestArk. As already mentioned by others, those kind of businesses are far and few anymore.

2 hours ago, Lost Oki said:

A little off topic but d o any of you have a shop smith and in need of a Beale 3 on lathe mandrel (hold 3 buffing wheels)

There are several SS users here. You might try posting the mandrell for sale in our Shop Smith Classified/ Trade Forum HERE and/ or in our Classified Swap and Sale Forum.

https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/forum/37-the-classified-swap-and-sale/

Update on the Delta. As stated earlier I have a work around for the bad printed circuit and it works. Upper blade chuck is together and seems to work. Lower blade chuck is incomplete but I may have a work around and need some input.

See posted pics. 1 is alignment of top and bottom chuck (ignore the oven in background). 2 is lower chuck incomplete. 3 is possible modification. My concern is if I remove the lower chuck - blade seems to be slightly to rear of screw holding assembly to lower arm. If I use pic 3 mod with a home built connecting block (measured and will work) is the blade going to be out of alignment with top chuck? OR am I overthinking this. Connecting block would be steel although I do have brass

---

After looking at the last image (lower rite) it reminded me of the adapter that came with my very old Taiwanese scroll saw. My saw was made to use pinned blades but also came with an adapter for pin less blades. Maybe it will give you an idea for something you can make.

The adapter-

7 hours ago, Lost Oki said:

Update on the Delta. As stated earlier I have a work around for the bad printed circuit and it works. Upper blade chuck is together and seems to work. Lower blade chuck is incomplete but I may have a work around and need some input.

See posted pics. 1 is alignment of top and bottom chuck (ignore the oven in background). 2 is lower chuck incomplete. 3 is possible modification. My concern is if I remove the lower chuck - blade seems to be slightly to rear of screw holding assembly to lower arm. If I use pic 3 mod with a home built connecting block (measured and will work) is the blade going to be out of alignment with top chuck? OR am I overthinking this. Connecting block would be steel although I do have brass

---

Picture #2 is of the lower blade clamp, correct? If it is, it appears that the plate with the "hooks", on the right side is installed backwards; the "hooks should face away from the other side, and you should be able to clamp a blade in the lowers holder by tightening the nut with a nut driver.

Tightening the blade: loosen nut until blade can be slipped into the space between the two plates (in the front of the assembly), rest the blade on the lower housing, push the blade back as far as possible, carefully tighten the nut while holding everything in place. Thread blade through pilot hole and use the upper clamp, then apply tension.

Thanks for the pics Lew. Food for thought.

Wichman3. Had not thought of that, pic is the way it was when purchased, similar to the upper. Not sure why I did not explore just clamping the blade in.

This is what I like about this site, always good info. Thank You

Sorry, I was wrong about the parts being installed incorrectly, but you can just use the clamp manually and not with the spring.

There are several threads I'm following on a couple of different sites, and my brain ain't braining. (migraines brought on by two different medications).

I have a Delta two speed with the quickclamp on the top, so I have a ready item I can refer to. :)

Wichman3. I was able to clamp the blade on the bottom manually but there seems to be a lot of slop between the pin that secures the clamp to the bottom arm. There is a keeper on the right side and a spring on the left. The pin shows a little wear but very little on the clamp arm. is this normal? Is there a bushing taking up the slack? On the positive side I did manage to run the saw without the blade coming out.

Edited May 21May 21 by Lost Oki

Sorry for the long response time (bad day with headache and light sensitivity 6/6, plus dark bars on the outside of my field of vision).

there seems to be a lot of slop between the pin that secures the clamp to the bottom arm

That seems normal to me, I've never had any trouble with the blade wobbling, I think the roll pins flex's slightly under tension and keeps the blade centered.\

There is a keeper on the right side and a spring on the left. The pin shows a little wear but very little on the clamp arm. is this normal?

This also sound normal to me.

Is there a bushing taking up the slack?

Not as far as I know.

At this point, I'd just start cutting; and I'd start with some practice patterns just to get used to the machine. :)