Delta Tablesaw Overhaul Questions

[Drumone]

So, I'm finally getting started on the overhaul of my Delta 36-630 table saw. I already had the stand and everything else disassembled for my move earlier this year. I decided to go ahead and do an overhaul cleaning and maintenance while it's apart. I have the bearings out and will pick up replacements this week. Little did I know that the large washer flange thing on the inside of the arbor was actually pressed on the spindle, not threaded on. I used a pair of jaw pullers and it came off without further trouble. This leads me to my first question. How do I press that part back onto the arbor??

 

I'm also going to work on cleaning every moving part that is threaded. This saw is multiple decades old at this point and the build-up of sawdust and general grime is significant in places. In between the teeth for the arbor bracket, and on the threads of the elevating screw and tilt screw, there is some fossilized sawdust. Is there an easy/recommended way to remove this wood concrete? I have brushes, screw drivers, and lots of other things I could use to scrape it out, but I don't want to damage anything in the process.

 

Any suggestions on how to tackle these two issues are most welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[lew]

@Larry Buskirk may be along soon with some suggestions.

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

Without knowing exactly what the arbor looks like, you might be able to do it with a clamp. You'd need something to press against the center of the washer, right next to the shaft. Maybe a deep well socket, or a piece of pipe, something like that. Then clamp down on the end of the pipe and the other end of the arbor. I've used K body clamps to do this and it worked OK. Alternatively, with that same piece of pipe or deep well socket (or whatever) you might be able to tap it back on with a hammer.

[DuckSoup]

10 hours ago, Drumone said:

In between the teeth for the arbor bracket, and on the threads of the elevating screw and tilt screw, there is some fossilized sawdust. Is there an easy/recommended way to remove this wood concrete? I have brushes, screw drivers, and lots of other things I could use to scrape it out, but I don't want to damage anything in the process.

 I would spray the sawdust with some P-B blaster or Truster a couple of times and let it soak in. A scratch awl is a good starting tool pick at the sawdust. 

[Drumone]

I can't believe I completely forgot to include the pictures I took! 

[Fred W. Hargis Jr]

I think the clamping trick would work on that piece. However you do it, make sure you out it back on in the right direction (same as it was, VOE!).

[Grandpadave52]

My default for cleaning the threads, gear sector etc. would be a wire wheel either in a drill press or bench grinder. Bob's idea of pre-soaking with PB Blaster would help to soften and make removal easier.

 

As far as pressing the flange washer back in place; if you have a short piece or pipe, place the flange washer in place, maybe tapping slightly to get started, place the pipe over the shaft, then install the nut against the pipe (I'd use a washer between the end of the pipe and nut). Use the force of the nut as you tighten to draw the flange washer into place. Double nut and lock together the opposite end to hold the shaft while turning the nut against the pipe. I'm assuming the flange washer goes on the Left Hand threaded side of the arbor shaft.

 

Hope this makes sense. If not, I'll make a crude drawing and post.

 

Another option would be to drive the arbor shaft, again using a piece of pipe (longer) to support the flange washer, unless you have a hydraulic bench press available.

[Ron Dudelston]

I would agree with Dave on using the pipe with one addition but don’t think I’ve lost my mind.  Put the shaft in the freezer and get it cold and take the flange washer and heat it but don’t heat it cherry red.  Then tap them together.  Common machinery repair trick. DAMHIK.

[Grandpadave52]

What Ron said above. Best way to heat the flange washer is in a skillet with some vegetable oil. In the farm repair shop we used hydraulic oil and an electric skillet set to 360° but guessing your wife wouldn't appreciate you doing that. Leave the shaft in the freezer overnight. Combination of these two techniques you probably won't even need the pipe but I'd have one just in case.

[Drumone]

@Grandpadave52  A press is one thing I don't have. I follow your idea though, so I think I'll be ok.

 

I soaked the parts in Evaporust last night and already they look 90% better. I'll let them sit tonight too and pull them out tomorrow. I also picked up new bearings today. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the wave washers and flat washers I need. You would think that a city as big as Minneapolis would have them, but no. I checked two local electric motor repair places and Grainger without luck.

 

Anyone know where to get wave/spring washers and super thin washers for the arbor shaft? I could go through Renovo, but that's not cheap.

Edited November 14 by Drumone

[Drumone]

I might be wrong, but the flange washer feels and looks like it might be aluminum. I'll double check. If it is, I'll put it in a vise and use the nut & pipe technique.

[JWD]

On 11/14/2025 at 3:14 PM, Drumone said:

I might be wrong, but the flange washer feels and looks like it might be aluminum. I'll double check. If it is, I'll put it in a vise and use the nut & pipe technique.

Wouldn't surprise me much if it's aluminum or zinc.

A screw press of any kind you can come up with should work fine for this.  I used to do u-joints with a big C-clamp or a bench vise when I had one big enough.

 

What size & thickness wave washer do you need?  I have some kicking around and could mail you on if I have the right size.  If you need to buy some, try McMaster-Carr's website.

[Drumone]

@JWD - Thanks for the offer! I ended up just using the old wave washers and shims. I got impatient and put everything back together. I figured if I had everything apart, considering the age of the saw, that it would be good to replace stuff. However, I just want to get my saw back together and start making stuff! I need to start phase two of my pantry/shelves/storage cabinets project. Of course, I'm adding to my wait time anyway now. I just found a similar table saw with a larger extension table, rails, and fence for a 52" cross cut for cheap. I'm picking up Saturday and will finish assembling the saw then. Here's a picture of the reassembly so far.

 

 

[JWD]

No problem at all.  Looks like you are making good progress!

[Gerald]

Looking like brand new. Good Job

[ASteinfield]

For pressing the flange back on, a small arbor press is ideal, but a bench vise works just fine. Just keep it square and go slow.

For the fossilized sawdust, soak the parts in mineral spirits or Simple Green, then clean with a brass brush or pick. A little heat helps too. Once everything’s cleaned and lubed, that old Delta will feel brand new.

[DuckSoup]

 That looks nice all cleaned up. I use a dry silicon spray to keep the sawdust from building up again.

[Grandpadave52]

On 11/19/2025 at 1:32 PM, Drumone said:

Here's a picture of the reassembly so far.

Great progress. That looks awesome. Fantastic job.

[Drumone]

The saw has been fully reassembled! I picked up an older Rockwell saw with no motor that had the longer extension table, a 7' rail, and Unisaw fence (it's in the top left of the photo) and I swapped all of that over to my Delta. I only had to drill one hole in the back rail support and then 2 to relocate the support legs. Everything else lined up perfectly. All for $125! I've done very well this past year with finding some great deals on Marketplace. All I have left is to check the alignment of the blade and set the alignment of the fence. I put some PALS on the saw when I initially got it and I'm very curios to see if the alignment has held through the long-distance move.

 

 

[Drumone]

I also want to ask if I should keep the old Rockwell saw for anything? It's a Model 10 contractor saw. Is there any need for parts from these saws? I'm debating whether it would be worth the time to advertise the parts for sale or should I just keep what I can use and take the rest to the scrap yard?