smitty10101 Posted June 14 Report Posted June 14 (edited) Just a curious question when resawing on a bandsaw---do you get a "smooth" cut like you would on a table saw or do you get a ripple on the wood? IF you get a ripple--then what is your best guess as to the cause? Blade is a 1/2inch 4(?) tpi, guides set correctly. wood species doesn't matter. Blade is an Olsen, but it happens with off brand blades also. TIA smitty Edited June 14 by smitty10101 lew, John Morris and Larry Buskirk 3 Quote
Fred W. Hargis Jr Posted June 14 Report Posted June 14 I seldom see a smooth cut on a bandsaw, but using a higher tooth count always gives a smoother cut for me. John Morris, lew and Larry Buskirk 3 Quote
John Morris Posted June 14 Report Posted June 14 Hey Smitty, I have seen that in my own operations too when I used to resaw planks on my Grizz BS with a 5/8th resaw blade, I think it had like 3 TPI, pretty aggressive. I never really worried about it because it was a rough cut to be planed off anyway, but I'd be curious to hear from others what may be causing it, very interesting. Fred W. Hargis Jr, lew and Larry Buskirk 3 Quote
HandyDan Posted June 14 Report Posted June 14 Resaw blades have never given a smooth cut in my experience. John Morris, Larry Buskirk and Fred W. Hargis Jr 3 Quote
Danl Posted June 15 Report Posted June 15 In additions to what has already been mentioned, feed rate, blade tension, and sharpness of blade plays a part of surface smoothness. Danl JWD, John Morris and Gerald 3 Quote
Gerald Posted June 15 Report Posted June 15 I have only had good results with resaw using a new sharp blade, 1/2 inch and I think 6-10 tpi. Another caveat is it is much harder to get a good cut with boards over 6 inches wide. I am usually not worried with getting so many cuts on a board so now I just cut and plane to thickness. Headhunter and John Morris 2 Quote
Al B Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 (edited) It is the more aggressive cut using a 3 or 4 teeth per inch blade. The more teeth per inch the smoother the cut. Tension is important as well. But I'm only repeating what has already been said. ' Edited June 16 by Al B John Morris 1 Quote
ASteinfield Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 You'll typically get some ripple when resawing on a bandsaw and I personally think that's normal. Unlike a table saw, bandsaws can flex slightly, and the blade has more give. Common causes of ripples include blade tension being too low, feed rate being inconsistent, or the blade not being sharp enough. Even with the guides set right, a dull or under-tensioned blade (especially a 4 TPI) can wander slightly and leave a wavy surface. A higher-quality resaw blade and ensuring proper tension usually help minimize it. John Morris and Fred W. Hargis Jr 2 Quote
Steve104c Posted July 1 Report Posted July 1 They make a carbide tooth bandsaw blade for re-sawing. I have two bandsaws. One with a 6” riser block for re-sawing. You do need to cut thicker piece and then use a planer to plan to size. I also have a 22”/44” drum sander to fine finish. Headhunter and HARO50 2 Quote
ASteinfield Posted July 3 Report Posted July 3 On 7/2/2025 at 7:53 AM, Steve104c said: They make a carbide tooth bandsaw blade for re-sawing. I have two bandsaws. One with a 6” riser block for re-sawing. You do need to cut thicker piece and then use a planer to plan to size. I also have a 22”/44” drum sander to fine finish. Which supplier are you referring to? I get mine off of Sawblade.com. HARO50 1 Quote
JWD Posted July 12 Report Posted July 12 (edited) I've found that a really pronounced ripple is usually a feed rate problem. Slow and steady and I don't get them, just the rough-ish cut from the set of the teeth. I've always attributed the ripple to the blade vibrating in the cut - like a guitar string you just twanged. Tweaking the tension should help I guess, but I've found that like hand sawing, you have to let the blade do the work for you to get a smooth and straight cut. I've never tried carbide, but a friend of mine swears by them. Most suppliers sell a carbide option if you look for it. I recall they are harder to find in the smaller blade widths, being mostly intended for resawing. I remember there being 1/2" options but nothing smaller. A home shop sized saw like 14" won't do well with a blade heavier than 1/2" and the carbide blades also tend to be thick I think. Tensioning is tension per cross sectional area, so thick is like wide - harder for the saw to tension. That friend of mine has a big saw of course, runs wider blades for resawing. I have also gotten very good results with a Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking. I keep it for special cuts that need to be smooth - most recently making some pistol grips out of a piece of blackwood where I scarcely had enough for the job (I needed 4 sets as I recall). The blade has minimal set so you get a smooth cut. Those are too expensive for using every day though! Edited July 12 by JWD HARO50, smitty10101 and HandyDan 3 Quote
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