Gaming table top help

[Michael Thuman]

Hi all I am creating a gaming table for my son's wedding present.

To cover the recessed table when not being used for games I need a way to stop liquid from getting between the seams of the table top (Think extension wings on a dining table).

The top will be 3/4 ply with oak banding I as thinking of using some 1/4" dia tubing or such and inserting that 1/8" in from the edge at a slant so that when liquid when spilled will harmlessly pour out the sides.  Of course I will seal all wood on all sides with poly.  Then run a 1/8" radius cutter in the router table but incline it from center of the board maybe 1/4" down to the bottom edge of the plywood leaving maybe 1/4" up.  So that is 1/4" of slant across 4' in the OAK banding.  

I need help on finding the flexible but water proof 1/4" dia material.

I also need finding a radius bit but was thinking of maybe a slot cutter just something to squeeze the 1/4" dia tubing.

[Michael Thuman]

Forgot to add the tubing must be shared between each seam.

[lew]

Are the "extension wings" going to be hinged or separate and butted together?

[Michael Thuman]

separate and butted together.

 

[lew]

I wonder if something like this would work, if I'm understanding what you are trying to do.

 

 

The pieces would lock together and overlap. Liquid would be caught in the "lower tray" and the routed channel would carry it away. 

[lew]

[JWD]

tubing options:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/tubing/tubing~/od~1-4-1/od~0-250/od~0-25/?s=silicone+tubing

I would probably go with this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/5236K832/

 

Silicone is good because you get the most pliability, but the downside of course is that it's difficult to adhere.  I've used RTV silicone as an adhesive for it, which works if you can lightly clamp it.  For this you probably can easily enough with a bunch of clothespins or similar, just enough to hold it in place.  I've also used contact cement with some success.

 

I would say you want something at or below 50A in hardness.

Explanation if you want to read it:  https://www.barnwell.co.uk/shore-a-hardness/

[Michael Thuman]

20 hours ago, lew said:

Put the recesses in the thickness of the table and you have it   This way the moisture is forced to evaporate.  I want it to drain our the ends of the boards.

 

[lew]

I should have put dimensions on the drawings. The channels do run across and out of the edges.

 

 

I think I still don't understand about the tubing. The interlock on the extension leaves would trap any water from the surface by channeling it down through the joint and into the routed "U" shaped channel. Directing the liquid out to the sides. Any liquid in the channel cannot leak through because of the shape of the interlocking board.

 

 

Maybe I'm way off base and not understanding your idea. I can be pretty dense sometimes 

[Michael Thuman]

31 minutes ago, lew said:

I should have put dimensions on the drawings. The channels do run across and out of the edges.

 

 

I think I still don't understand about the tubing. The interlock on the extension leaves would trap any water from the surface by channeling it down through the joint and into the routed "U" shaped channel. Directing the liquid out to the sides. Any liquid in the channel cannot leak through because of the shape of the interlocking board.

 

 

Maybe I'm way off base and not understanding your idea. I can be pretty dense sometimes 

i think this works if there is no tubing with your drawing update I can see a well now how to tilt the well from the center to the ends to get the water to flow outward?

[Michael Thuman]

2 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

i think this works if there is no tubing with your drawing update I can see a well now how to tilt the well from the center to the ends to get the water to flow outward?

Is the profile without the semi round recess a drawer lock router bit?

[DAB]

get your sign kit out:  no drinks!!

[lew]

I didn’t consider that. There might be a router bit that could work. My first thought was to create the shape with a table saw and dado blade an then use a cove box routers bit to create the half round channel 

[Michael Thuman]

24 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

Is the profile without the semi round recess a drawer lock router bit?

Or is this a lap joint with dado grooves that from the interlock.

 

[Michael Thuman]

13 minutes ago, lew said:

I didn’t consider that. There might be a router bit that could work. My first thought was to create the shape with a table saw and dado blade an then use a cove box routers bit to create the half round channel 

is this a half lap joint then cove bit.  I see the dado grooves but do you have any dimensions that work with 3//4 ply or matching  oak?

[lew]

Let me draw up something 

[DAB]

pfft:  peg board top, water/drinks go right thru onto the shag carpeting.

[lew]

Got to thinking about the width of the plywood lip (red arrow). Made it a bit wider so it would be less likely to split off. Also I used cabinet grade plywood dimensions for the thickness of the piece (3/4")

 

 

I'd make the first dado cut at "A" and remove 7/16" of material. The raise the blade and make the second cut at "B" and remove 3/8" of material. The finally route the trough at "C" with a 3/8" diameter half round bit. 

 

 

The attaching leaf edge would be a mirrored profile but without the trough.

 

 

Hope that makes sense.

[DAB]

i'm still sticking with shag carpeting....you can drop a small cat/dog and never find them.....

[BillyJack]

I’m still trying to understand this?