Continuing to set up my new small shop.  I previously had two table saws with a router extension wings and I always liked the idea.  Not wanting to spend $$, I found this plan...  https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/make-router-table-extension-table-saw/

 

I did modify it in a couple of small ways - I had no laminate scraps (you always need whatever you recently discarded), so I used some 1/4" ply with several coats of poly.  And I already had the DC set up with a 4" hose, so I just used that size connector (powertec on Amazon.)

 

Anyway, here's the result...

 

  

 

 

 

 

Have you tried using it yet? Did the DC work well with your set up?

That dust collection idea is pretty cool!

 

My router table is also on the table saw wing. really saves space.

 

I had an old Sears self standing router table. Used the top and fitted it into a angle iron/wooden frame. My router didn't have an accurate depth adjustment so I built the one from ShopNotes issue 121 https://www.shopnotes.com/magazine/issue/121/

 

Nice build Jim. Thanks for posting the link to the plan source. I like the idea of the concealed dust port. I'll be interested to get your take on it. Curious if it will plug easily? Did you finish or wax it?

10 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

 Curious if it will plug easily? Did you finish or wax it?

Good point! 
I did make the channel a bit deeper after the initial routing.  And attached the top layer with screws rather than glue. 
But I will go in and poly both sides of the dust channel. 
Thank you.

1. I cannot see how the dust port works?

2. do you have to lift the whole table to change and adjust bits? I have an insert and can pull router out for bit and measurement adjustments in my table.

 Isn't that basically a Shaper made from a Router? 

1 hour ago, Gerald said:

1. I cannot see how the dust port works?

2. do you have to lift the whole table to change and adjust bits? I have an insert and can pull router out for bit and measurement adjustments in my table.

1- I think the idea is that an enclosed channel is a pathway for the DC to draw the chips out.  A down spiral bit would probably help.

 

2- The plan was unclear about attaching the top layer. I chose to use the screws.  There’s room underneath to change the bit and make adjustments. As long as my knees don’t complain.

 

Thank you.

@Gerald's comment about bit changes got me to thinking about the size of the opening for the bits. My router bits range in size from less than 1/8" in diameter to almost 2" in diameter.  Do you think something like this would be helpful?

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kreg-level-loc-router-table-insert-ring-set-5-piece?variant=43400913256586&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwreW2BhBhEiwAavLwfPZydhXUrnqrnWGPhPC6EhdBnP7GeRLpDKx_N7jiKt2aJME5t4wC_hoCc_UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

The author focused on the diameter of the collet, which I followed.

 

Those inserts would certainly better direct the chips toward the DC as the shaft size changed.

 

With no collection, the chips seem to cover a square mile, so hopefully this will be an improvement.  I plan to test it this weekend.

This is basically what I have . I do not use the four corner screws as the weight of a 2.5 hp router holds it down. Also with a plate like this changing the throat allows for the larger bits Lew was talking about. To change bits lift router with plate out of the table.

Kreg Precision Router Table Insert Plate with Level-Loc Rings (predrilled for Bosch and Porter Cable)