I have a GE motor that was on a Saw Smith RAS built in 1959/1960. I've taken apart the motor housing to clean and service it. What type of grease should I use for the motor shaft bearing and at the other end of the housing? Thanks in advance.

Does the motor have an oil port or is it a sealed unit?

I've always used a couple of drops of car motor oil. 

I've used THIS for years. Still working on my original container.

The manuals can be found here.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=791&tab=3

They state the bearings are sealed units.

 

If it has an oil port I’d say SAE30.  That was the go to back in the day.  If an open bearing in a sealed unit just a light, all purpose grease.

Thanks for the suggestions everybody. It would have made too much sense for me to include a picture, so I didn't.   I'm honestly not sure what to consider these in terms of bearing type.

 

If it was mine I'd use Lucas Oil Red n Tacky. I use this for many applications now. Doesnt "wash out" due to heat. If you don't have a Menards, Farm Supply stores, Auto Parts stores and often even Wallyworlds carry it too.

 

Years ago, Delco Remy made an excellent grease for unshielded ball bearings we used in alternator and generator bearings like this. Doesn't appear it's available anymore.

 

Be sure to use mineral spirits or similar (no acetone) to wash and clean out the old grease first. Dry with compressed air. Manually repack using a small screwdriver (or your fingers) to force grease back into the cavities. Rotate the bearing every so often to distribute; continue filling until the bearing cavity is full.

Edited August 19, 20241 yr by Grandpadave52

@Grandpadave52 - Thank you!! Those are just the kind of details and instructions I need. I've only done wheel bearings once or twice a long time ago, so I wasn't quite sure what to do with this. The really crazy thing is that this bearing is still good! It spins freely without any noise. Should I remove the bearing to clean it? If so, how?

 

@Larry Buskirk - Thanks for the link. I already have the manual and it says that the bearings don't need lubrication. Hence, my question.

6 hours ago, Drumone said:

@Grandpadave52 - Thank you!! Those are just the kind of details and instructions I need. I've only done wheel bearings once or twice a long time ago, so I wasn't quite sure what to do with this. The really crazy thing is that this bearing is still good! It spins freely without any noise. Should I remove the bearing to clean it? If so, how?

 

@Larry Buskirk - Thanks for the link. I already have the manual and it says that the bearings don't need lubrication. Hence, my question.

You could remove, but personally if mine, I probably wouldn't. The one in the end plate could be pressed or driven out using a socket or piece of pipe as close as possible in diameter to the outside race. I would support the end plate with a larger diameter socket of piece of pipe with an ID slightly larger than the OD of the bearing. However, looking at what you have, I wouldn't bother.

 

As for the one on the shaft, I'd need a few more pictures, eg, from side. Unless you have some speciality pullers and accessories and/or a small press, I wouldn't risk it. Just clean it good and repack. Assuming that's the armature shaft, I'd recommend only using mineral spirits to clean, then fully dry with compressed air.

 

An alternative cleaner is THIS or THIS TOO or even THIS ONE.  I've used them all depending what I had on hand refurbishing hand held electric tools. I would not recommend using Automotive Brake Cleaners. The CRC Lectra Motive is my preferred cleaner for electric motors but dont recommend for sensitive electrical parts on newer electronic sensitive components. CRC does have specific cleaners for those as well. I used to be able to buy Lectra Motive at our local Home Depot or Rural King Farm store but seems they quit carrying it. It's also available at almost all automotive parts stores but at about 2x the price as Menards.

 

Hope this helps. Happy to offer my experiences.

 

 

Edited August 20, 20241 yr by Grandpadave52
Fix hyperlinks

I do believe Dave has this one covered.

I can't improve on Dave's advice

 

I'll just add that I am really leery of replacing bearings in any non-ferrous housing (like that one, cast aluminum from the look of it).  Clean in place and pack with a grease of choice. 

 

Modern motors are even worse on those aluminum housings, they are machined to a very light press fit for ease and speed of assembly, so if they start to fail you have to get on them quick before the bearing spins in it's housing.  With a light press, going from noisy to spun happens fast.  Only time I got on it quick enough was on a fairly new Leeson motor for my old unisaw, I could hear a different tone in the running saw and it just sounded like a soon to be bad bearing.

Auto wheel bearing grease. And be sure to put the cover back on the top of the bearing since it is not a factory sealed type.

 Runny oil will do like it says it will do and runny to the floor. 

   Wheel bearing on cars use to go out way too often but the manuf and the better grease have kept the car wheel bearing to almost last forever

If the bearings after you soak them in paint thinner and blow them out real good , if they spin ruff you might take the bearing to a bearing store and they can match it and get the fully sealed model while you are at it. This will make them last for about as long as they lasted last time.