1/4 BB stained wth medium Watco. On a 1/8 BB backer rattle can painted blue.

Nice work Gene

That is awesome, Gene!

You've got this scrollsaw stuff down pretty well, nice!

Most excellent in all aspects Gene.

Very cool Gene! Hey, I added tags for ya

I must of missed something, what scroll saw are you using?

Hey there Gene I thought you had thrown away your scroll saw so I am glad to see something show up.

 

Hey guys I think we got another artist budding out here...

 

Gene do you need any patterns. I keep my originals filed away for later use and I could send some to you. Thats includes anyone else that has an address 

  I just gave away a box full of scroll saw books and still have more if you are interested...

Someone told me once a new scroller needs to practice practice but why not forget the practice part and start making things instead of wasting wood. 

   Most all the small things I have done are from pictures I find and my printer will enlarge it to suit me. Save one for later use and glue the other on a board and get to sawing. 

 I save every picture if it appeals to me for later use.

  All the things I make that don't come from pictures I draw out the patterns on graph paper using a set of french curves about 10 bucks at Hobby Lobby.

 

This toilet paper holder I drew out using 1/4" squares graph paper.  And then use a set of French Curves from

 Hobby Lobby, 10 bucks and this lets me draw out anything I want to scroll saw. I think the paper came from an office supply. 

None of these patterns were bought as I save any picture that is straight at me then enlarge for my patterns . I leave my patterns on and use a Dremel 3000 with the flex shaft which makes it much easier to hold and get to the area I am wanting to carve. Everything I scroll saw is done with a #5 blade and they are flying dutchman brand.  Getting use to using the reverse tooth blades is harder to use than a blade that has teeth all pointing down but in the long run you will save sanding on the bottom part of what you sawed out. You will still have fuzzies on the bottom but a lot less work to remove them.

  Through away the hold down for it gets in your way as you need to learn to control the wood with your fingers.

Only use your fingers to tighten the blades or else you will stretch out the area holding the blades and then you will never be able to tighten the blade properly. 

  I find the best way to make names is to make the letters all together and join then with a little log under the letters which lets me glue just one piece down. when you attach them to the wood you are just gluing down one group for if you try to make letters separate you can never get them glued down straight as they should be.

 Once I type out the name and before I start sawing I draw two lines under the name to connect them all together ...

 These small carvings on this picture were store bought for I wanted something that was only about 1/4" and these 

appliques are great for this type of project I keep one of everything I buy like these and trace around them for more patterns....Lawless Hardware.com and they have good prices.. The big appliques I scroll saw them apart to fit a special area

   This is how I learned to carve by tracing around one on paper then gluing it on to some thicker wood to give me more room to get deep curves and things. When I cut out lots of pieces of a picture to carve and after I slope both sides of the pieces it kinda hides the sawn out voids.

  I never have to sand any of the areas where the blade went through the wood.

  I know there are some who only use spiral blades for everything but that makes the sides look like a hatchet was used instead of a regular scroll saw blade.

  Thanks for showing your finished project for I finally get to see something sawn with an angle on the side.

I started scroll sawing when I was still in grade school during WW11 and have never done that..My folks bought me a scroll saw type of thing from Sears during the war but had trouble finding wood to saw. That started me in to woodworking

  I probably said all these things many times here but sometimes I convince someone scroll sawing ain't that hard to learn...

 I find it is better to never back up to get back on the line for it will show big time and the only way to remove it is to sand it out. You will find just gradually curve back to the line and it won't show like backing up does.

 If you do any stack sawing put wax paper between the pieces and it will make you blades last longer.

Many thanks for all the tips, Jesse. I'll gladly accept any patterns and books/magazines you care to send.

I'll PM you my address and, if you would  put your return address on your mail to me I'll be be glad to send you some $ for your postage and etc.

3 hours ago, John Morris said:

Very cool Gene! Hey, I added tags for ya

I must of missed something, what scroll saw are you using?

@John Morris Thanks for the tags. I forgot them. 

My scroll saw is a Dewalt. 

4 hours ago, John Morris said:

Very cool Gene! Hey, I added tags for ya

I must of missed something, what scroll saw are you using?

@John Morris Thanks for the tags. I forgot them. 

My scroll saw is a Dewalt.