In the below picture are component I and N when glued to D are in a cross grain connection. They mate with H in a long grain connection.

how much glue and only in  the center board of D?  Also end grain connection to J and E?  Yes this same connnection happens on the other end.

I think that is why there are lag screws connecting H to D and E.  Should I be concerned?

 

Not sure but it looks like there couldn't be much movement of part D. It looks to be "trapped" by parts J and E with the bolts thru part H.

5 minutes ago, lew said:

Not sure but it looks like there couldn't be much movement of part D. It looks to be "trapped" by parts J and E with the bolts thru part H.

OK so what would you do then glue it all up?

Looks like N could be used as a loose tenon and not need glue. Movement depends on dimensions and those are not given. If only over 18 inches I do not see a problem.

woodcraftmagizine.com Feb/Mar 2010.  n is 9.75 long I is 7.25"  D is 8.75 wide.

I and J sit under D.  

Edited November 26, 20232 yr by Michael Thuman
Correcting content

Agree with @Gerald about the loose tenon. Also, it looks like the top sets ON Part I so. I would fasten with screws to Part I and elongated holes in Part I to allow for slight movement. The other thing you could do is glue the top pieces as "edge" grain up. That way any expansion would be minimized and occur vertically.

3 minutes ago, lew said:

Agree with @Gerald about the loose tenon. Also, it looks like the top sets ON Part I so. I would fasten with screws to Part I and elongated holes in Part I to allow for slight movement. The other thing you could do is glue the top pieces as "edge" grain up. That way any expansion would be minimized and occur vertically.

Thanks i think I to D with a pocket screw and I to e with a pocket screw then also screw I to J which is glued to D.

Thanks all now back to work!

What I did was to put a spot on glue on the same board on both ends and that stabilized it (I) then used pocket screws on both ends of I going into D and I into J after J is glued in place.  I am using wormy oak with red and white intermixed.  Once done I will upload a picture.

On 11/28/2023 at 9:21 PM, Michael Thuman said:

What I did was to put a spot on glue on the same board on both ends and that stabilized it (I) then used pocket screws on both ends of I going into D and I into J after J is glued in place.  I am using wormy oak with red and white intermixed.  Once done I will upload a picture.

I use some silicone dots to keep loose tenons from sliding around. Allows for the tenons to expand or contract without binding them to the breadboard ends.

I built a Tage Frid workbench from FWW plans maybe 40 years ago, one of my first "serious" woodworking projects.  It has cross-grain caps on both ends and have not had a problem.

 

On 12/1/2023 at 3:30 PM, kmealy said:

I built a Tage Frid workbench from FWW plans maybe 40 years ago, one of my first "serious" woodworking projects.  It has cross-grain caps on both ends and have not had a problem.

 

 Yes my end caps are cross grained also but when you cut a slot in cross end grain what you get is long grain.  Then glue in a board into the slots of both end  blocks and table.  Then for good measure bolt it in place.

Different bench but the end cap on the tail vise side of this one is cross grain.
The end cap is mortised to a tenon and secured with barrel nuts and bolts from the bottom.
There is enough play in the bolt holes to allow for expansion / contraction but I has been a couple years now and I haven’t noticed any significant movement at all..
(This picture was taken just after I realized that I had managed to drill the hole of for the tail vise block WAY off center)  The moral of this story is, don’t build drilling guide jigs when you are tired  

17 hours ago, StaticLV2 said:

Different bench but the end cap on the tail vise side of this one is cross grain.

I love looking at this bench. Glad it continues to serve you extremely well.