My equipment is in a need of having all cast iron surface cleaned and have all the raised spots of finish or sap or whatever removed. Some surface rust also.

How would you go about this?

1. get some 400 1200 1600 sand paper and with a block plain sand the surface smooth?

Mineral spirits is not working to remove anything as it has dried and I am not looking for a show room finish nor perfectly sheen finish.

The existing goughes will remain.  

2. How about a buffing wheel with rubbing compound?  

Does rubbing compound has silicone in it?

3. other options?

Are we talking table saw top/jointer bed or something else like old M&E framework?

Maybe some sheets of ascending grit emery cloth and a random orbital sander. Last grit could be done by hand if swirl marks were objectionable 

Pictures of the surfaces would be helpful Michael.

9 hours ago, Cal said:

Are we talking table saw top/jointer bed or something else like old M&E framework?

Same question here.

What exactly is it Michael, if a flat cast iron top and if it's bad, I'll break out my ROS and work from 120 grit to 400 then buff. Recently did that to a poorly in shape table saw top it worked beautifully.

Rubbing compounds do not have silicone in them, I often use them on finish surfaces to smooth them out and change the sheen.  I was more curious about the effects on the ROS than the cast iron, but he said it worked just fine. The more common method I've used was  WD-40 as a solvent and a non woven pad (Scotch Brite) to clean off most of the stuff you listed. After that if you need to use a silicon carbide paper on a lock to get off the more stubborn stains/rust. In some cases you can actually scrape the stuff off with a razor blade, that includes light rust, then go at it with the other stuff. One other thing, if it's bad I have a friend that used John's ROS method on a jointer and it came out really looking nice.

Edited September 14, 20232 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

2 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

One other thing, if it's bad I have a friend that used John's ROS method on a jointer and it came out really looking nice.

And, it's quick! Complete top done in about 15 minutes.

12 hours ago, Cal said:

Are we talking table saw top/jointer bed or something else like old M&E framework?

Table saw, Jointer bed, Thickness Planer, drill press, bandsaw.

Most of the equipment is very little rust and is approximately 18 years old.

 

I like the ROS method and will try that on my smallest surface first to see the effects.

I will post pictures of before and after.  Stay tuned.  Scraping with a Razor is how I gouged the table in the first place but with less pressure it should work fine.

Thanks for all the replies I am really disappointed in my maintenance of my own equipment.

But now I need to get to work on it and see what happens.

I was thinking that after I use the 400 then rubbing compound if needed or desired.

I am having trouble finding ROS 400 paper any sources?

I do have a square ROS that uses sheets and will have to try that if I cannot find hook and loop 5" discs of 400.

 

1 minute ago, Michael Thuman said:

I am having trouble finding ROS 400 paper any sources?

Check with local Automotive Auto-Body Supply stores. Local NAPA stores also.

 

Check with KLINGSPOR HERE. They carry both 5&6" H&L, or PSA discs with/without holes.

 

 

Here's a place I buy some of my sanding supplies. They might have what you need-

https://www.supergrit.com/

 

Before sanding 120 150 220.

After sanding 120 150 220 and wiped clean with Mineral spirits.  Looks much better.  Any ideas what the foot of the drill press is used for?

Any ideas on how to clean up the post.  I would think wrap sheets around and twirl?

 

Edited September 14, 20232 yr by Michael Thuman

MY DP looks much like yours, and for the column I'm thinking sanding strips (maybe the ones from HF), I'm not sure sheets would provide enough reach. In any case Ttat's the only way I would do it.

What Fred said. I'd start first by wiping it clean with some mineral spirits. Appears to me to still have some of the original protective cosmoline coating. It will just gum/load up your sandpaper.

Thanks for the sources I have ordered the 320 and 400 5" 5 hole.

For the drill press with the rough surface I see no need to sand beyond the 220.

I need some feed back on the pole please.

and do you use wax or "Power glide" to lubricate and protect the cast iron surfaces.

 

I did clean all surfaces before sanding with mineral spirits and after sanding.

The column is what I was addressing with the sanding strips, holding a long piece in your hands and working it back and forth is my plan.

1 hour ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

MY DP looks much like yours, and for the column I'm thinking sanding strips (maybe the ones from HF), I'm not sure sheets would provide enough reach. In any case Ttat's the only way I would do it.

Thanks I will cut strips and work on it later today.

 

2 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

 

and do you use wax or "Power glide" to lubricate and protect the cast iron surfaces.

 

Can I please get some replies on the best method to protect the cast iron after cleaning.

 

I've just used paste wax for many years, but there area a number of methods folks swear by. In my case it was Johnson's Paste wax...which is now discontinued. But there are a number of other brands, I used Trewax before I switched to Johnson's. I think Minwax (cough, cough) markets a paste wax that at least some folks have said works well. The paste wax also makes the wood slide across the cast iron really well.